\  V 

THE 


PRACTICAL   UPHOLSTERER. 

GIVING    CLEAR    DIRECTIONS    FOR    SKILLFULLY    PERFORMING 

ALL  KINDS  OF  UPHOLSTERED  WORK  IN  LEATHER,  SILK, 
PLUSH,  REPS,  COTTONS,  VELVETS,  AND  CARPETINGS. 

ALSO.    FOR    STUFFING.    EMBOSSING.    WELTING.   AND    COVERING    ALL 
KINDS    OF    MATTRESSES,   <fce. 

Rules  for  Measuring   Valances,  Curtains,  Tapestry,  Window  and  Door 

Drapery,  Curtain-Rods,  Persian  Beds,  Mantel  Drapery,  Lambre- 

fjnins.  Cushion.?,  Carpet*.  FInor-Clotlis,  Festoon   Blind*  and 

Cnrtain-Hdinjintjs.  a  ml   <jll   kinds  of  Upholstery. 


FULLY    ILLUSTRATED 

riTH     ENGRAVINGS    OF    TOOLS,    SKETCHES    OF    FURNITURE.    AND    NU 

FULL-PAGE    ILLUSTRATIONS    OF   ORIGINAL    DKCOBATIVK    DKSK1N8. 


BY 

A   PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERER. 


NEW  YORK: 
THE    INDUSTRIAL    PUBLICATION    COMPANY, 

1891. 

CopyrigUt  iccured,  1891,  by  JUMN  ?u:x.. 


PREFACE. 


PEKHAPS  no  branch  of  literature  connected  with  the  fur- 
nishing trades  has  been  so  much  neglected  as  thai 
relating  to  upholstering.  It  is  true  that  books  of  designs 
for  window  drapery,  &c.,  have  occasionally  been  published ; 
but,  apart  from  the  fact  that  they  have,  as  a  rule,  dealt  only 
with  one  branch  of  the  upholsterer's  work,  they  have  been 
useless  to  the  apprentice  and  the  young  workman  by  reason 
of  their  only  showing  what  to  do,  but  affording  him  no 
clue  as  to  how  to  do  it, —  a  subject  of  by  no  means  second- 
ary importance.  The  want  of  a  work  on  upholstering  of  a 
practical  nature  has  thus  long  been  felt,  and  many  are  the 
inquiries  on  the  subject  that  haA7e  been  made  from  time  to 
time  by  apprentices  and  others.  These  numerous  applica- 
tions for  a  textbook  on  the  subject  have  induced  the  pub- 
lishers to  commission  a  practical  upholsterer  of  extensive 
experience  to  write  a  fairly  comprehensive  treatise  thereon, 
which  we  lay  herewith  before  our  readers.  To  some  it  may 
seem  rather  elementary ;  but  it  should  be  remembered  that 
this  very  fact  will  constitute  one  of  its  chief  recommenda- 
tions in  the  eyes  of  those  who  are  only  learners.  We,  more- 
over, hold  that  in  works  of  a  technical  nature  it  is  impossible 
to  be  too  explicit;  to  be  practically  useful  to  the  largest 
number  they  should  begin  at  the  very  beginning.  No 
previous  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  student  should  be 
taken  for  granted :  it  being,  in  our  opinion,  safer  to  en*  on 
the  side  of  fullness  rather  than  in  the  direction  of  omitting 
rudimentary  information  because  haply  it  might  be  familiar 
to  some  of  the  readers. 

In  this  treatise  almost  every  phase  of  the  upholsterer's 
art  has  been  fully  dealt  with,  and  illustrations  have  been 
given,  with  a  view  to  make  the  text  more  easily  intelligible. 
It  has  been  written  by  a  gentleman  of  exceptionally  large 
experience  In  the  upholstering  trade,  and  carefully  revised 
by  others  equally  efficient.  We  therefore  hope  an4  believe 
|hat  it  will  prove  of  great  usefulness, 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER     I. 

HISTORY     OF     THK      ART. 

CHAPTER     II. 

TOOLS     AND     MATERIALS      USED. 

Hammer,  Cabriole  Hammer,  Web-Pincers,  Web-Strainer,  Reg- 
ulator, Needles,  Springs.  Horsehair,  Cotton  Batting,  Alva.  Sea-grass, 
Cocoa  Fiber,  Feathers,  Down,  Tapestries,  Reps,  Damasks,  American 
Cloth,  Utrecht  Velvet,  Web,  Scrim,  Hessian  Canvas,  Wadding,  Hol- 
land, Muslin,  Twine,  Morocco  Leather,  Roan  Leather. .  .  .  9 — 17 

CHAPTER     III. 

UPHOLSTERING     A     CHAIR. 

First  Lesson,  Twines.  First  Stuffing,  Second  Stuffing,  Marking 
the  Skin,  How  to  Hide  Marks  in  the  Skin,  Filling  out  the  Leather, 
How  to  Put  in  the  Buttons,  Cutting  Skin  to  Exact  Size,  Border  and 
Welt,  Joining  or  Splicing,  Curriers'  Paste,  Glue,  Buckram  on  Corners, 
Quantity  of  Hair  for  a  Chair,  Skivering1,  Practical  Directions,  Corded 
Edges 18-30 

CHAPTER     IV. 

PLAIN      SEATS. 

Easy-Chairs  in  Leather,  Lounges  and  Settees,  Number  of  Skins 
for  a  Lounge,  Moroccos,  Lounge  to  be  Buttoned,  Upholstering,  Lounge 
Scrolls,  Hair  Seating 31—37 

CHAPTER    V. 

PARLOR     FURNITURE. 

Spring  Edges,  Plain  Seats,  Buttoned  Seats,  Quantities  Required. 
French  Work,  French  Easy-Chairs,  Needlework,  Crewelwork,  Spanish 
Chair  in  Needlework 38—45 

CHAPTER    VI. 

PARLOR    FURNITURE    (continued). 

French  Settee.  Circular  Ottoman,  Box  Ottoman.  Double-pouffe 
Ottoman,  Gipsy  Tables.  Mantel-boards 46—51 


CONTENTS. 
CHAPTER    VII. 

BEDROOM      FVRNlftTRJE. 

Spring  Mattresses,  Canvas  for  Covering,  Mattress  with  Tufted 
Top,  Folding  Mattress,  Hair  and  Wool  Mattresses,  Bedding.  Feath- 
ered Tick.  Bolsters,  Pillows,  Flock  Beds 52—56 

CHAPTER     VIII. 

BED      DRAPERIES. 

How  to  Measure  Valances.  Curtains,  Tapestry  Furniture,  Per- 
sian Beds.  Window  Draperies,  Curtain-rods,  Curtain-bands.  Cutting 
Valances 57—73 

CHAPTER      IX. 

B  E  D  -  H  A  N  G  J  N  G  S. 

Door  or  Window  Drapery,  Mantel-board  and  Drapery,  Mirror 
Drapery,  Wicker-chair  Cushions *.'  74 — 82 

CHAPTER     X. 

O  A  R  P  E  T  -  P  I,  A  N  N  I N  G. 

Method  of  Measuring,  To  Cut  the  Carpet,  To  Calculate  Quantity 
of  Carpet  Required.  Cross-multiplication,  To  find  whether  the  Sides 
of  a  Room  are  "square"  with  each  other,  Measuring  for  Circular 
Whitlows.  Cutting  Bordered  Carpets,  "Cross-joins,"  Felt  Carpet, 
Cutting  Floor-cloths,  Kamptulicons,  Linoleums 83 — 88 

CHAPTER     XI. 

CUTTING      OF     SHADES. 

Festoon  Shades.  Estimating  Cost  of  Shades,  Book  for  Measure- 
ments  89—92 

CHAPTER     XII. 

MISCELLANEOUS     HINTS. 

Draping  the  Back  of  a  Piano,  Draping  French  Windows  opening 
on  Covered  Porch,  Draping  a  Window  from  one  side  only,  Draping 
Halls,  Alcoves,  Niches,  and  Recesses;  Draping  Narrow  Halls,  Bed- 
hangings,  Bedstead  with  Upholstered  Head,  "Persian"  Bedstead. 
Upholstering  Iron  Bedstead,  Effect  of  Color  in  Bed  Drapery,  Bed- 
curtains;  Beds,  Pillows,  Bolsters.  Feathers,  &c.;  Preparation  and 
Cleaning  of  Feathers.  Carpet  Planning,  Stair-carpets,  Laying  Down 
Floorcloths 93-116 


PRACTICAL   UPHOLSTERY. 


W 


CHAPTER    I. 

HISTORY    OF    THE   ART. 

:  have  heard  it  stated  that  in  former  times  uphol- 
sterers were  called  upholders;  and  it  appeai-s  to 
be  not  unreasonable  when  we  bear  in  mind  the  principal 
work  of  upholsterers  in  olden  times,  such  as  the  application 
of  tapestry  to  walls  and  to  articles  of  furniture. 

We  have  ample  proof  that  the  art  is  most  ancient. 
Monumental  records  of  the  very  earliest  periods  in  Egypt 
reveal  the  fact  that  the  ladies  of  the  City  of  the  Sun  were 
wont  to  repose  on  couches  and  chairs  that  were  stuffed  and 
covered  with  rich  materials  of  the  most  costly  description ; 
and  yet  it  is  possible  that  they  acquired  the  art  from  India, 
the  cradle  of  humanity,  and,  we  might  almost  say,  of  all  the 
beautiful  arts.  It  would  be  futile  for  us  to  inquire  whence 
the  suggestion  of  a  comfortable  seat  or  carpet  emanated. 
A  glance  at  Nature  will  suffice  to  show  a  common  instinct 
for  a  soft  and  warm  retreat;  and  under  the  rude  tents  of 
the  inhabitants  of  bygone  ages  this  instinct  would  be  im- 
peratively exercised. 

The  Ninevites,  the  Hebrews,  the  Greeks,  the  Tuscans, 
and  the  Romans,  successively  exercised  the  art  of  uphol- 
stery, as  we  know  from  their  records ;  but  it  is  impossible 
that  the  materials  used  could  last  for  ages,  hence  most  of 
the  examples  of  upholstery  are  confined  to  the  last  few 
centuries.  Perhaps  the  most  luxuriant  display  of  seat 
coverings  and-  curtains  was  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XVI. 
Many  articles  produced  at  this  period  remain  with  us,  and 
are  being  continually  reproduced.  There  are  numerous 
specimens  after  this  style  of  work  to  be  found  in  many  of 
the  art  publications  of  the  past  and  present  day;  and  with 
the  aid  of  this  work  the  operative  upholsterer  in  the  United 
States  will  experience  no  difficulty  in  turning  out  work 
equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  furnishings  of  the  days  of  the 
luxurious  French  monarch. 


UPHOLSTERERS'   TOOLS. 


PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY.  9 

CHAPTER    H. 
TOOLS    AND    MATERIALS. 

nr^HE  tools  required  by  an  upholsterer  are  few  in  number, 
the  principal  being  a  pair  of  good  hammers  (those  of 
French  make  are  the  best,  and  are  used  by  most  expert 
workmen),  a  web  strainer,  a  heavy  pair  of  scissors  for  car- 
pets and  similar  work,  a  light  pair  for  general  use  at  the 
bench,  a  pair  of  compasses,  a  strong  awl,  with  the  handle 
in  a  socket,  if  possible,  in  order  to  bore  for  driving  studs 
or  brass  nails,  one  each  of  6  in.,  8  in.,  10  in.,  12  in.,  and 
14  in.  double-pointed  upholsterers'  needles,  half  a  dozen 
assorted  circular  needles,  a  medium-sized  screwdriver,  a 
regulator  to  distribute  the  hair  when  tacking  down  to  form 
edges,  a  ripping-chisel,  a  wooden  mallet,  a  3-ft.  rule,  a  tape- 
line,  and  a  16  in.  leather  bag  to  hold  the  whole. 

I  show  some  of  the  tools  in  the  cut  on  the  opposite 
page,  and  the  following  gives  a  fair  description  of  them : — 

1.  Hammer. —  This  is  much  lighter  in  every  way  than 
the  ordinary  carpenter's   hammer,  being   by  comparison  a 
very  attenuated  affair.     A  general  size  is  about  13  inches 
long,  with  a  head  of  5  inches  from  end  to  end.     The  thin 
end  is  finished  with  a  claw ;  the  other  is  occasionally  rough- 
ened to  prevent  slipping.     Fig.  1  gives  a  good  idea  of  this 
tool. 

2.  Cabriole   Hammer. — This   is   similar,  but   with   the 
broad  face  of  the  head  very  much  smaller.     The  workman 
need  hardly  provide  himself  with  one  of  these,  as,  though 
a  handy  tool,  he  will  probably  not  find  much  occasion  to 
use  it. 

3.  Web  Pincers. — The  chief  peculiarity  of  these  is  in 
the  jaws,  which  are  shown  in  Fig.  2.     It  will  be  noticed 


10  PRACTICAL    I'PHOLSTERY. 

that  the  faces  are  corrugated  or  ribbed,  in  order  that  a 
firm  grip  may  be  got  on  the  web.  The  use  of  this  and  the 
other  tools  will  be  fully  explained  in  describing  work. 

4.  Web- Strainer. —  There  are  several  forms  of  this  in 
use.  Two  of  the  most  common  are  here  described.  Each 
has  its  own  advocates,  and  doubtless  its  own.  merits,  but 
they  are  both  good,  and  whichever  is  preferred  may  be 
adopted.  Briefly,  it  may  be  said  that  the  spike-strainer  is 
considered  by  some  to  be  quicker  in  action  than  the  other, 
but  that  it  has  a  tendency  to  tear  the  web.  Properly  used 
it  does  not,  nor  with  those  accustomed  to  the  other  is  there 
much  if  any  saving  of  time.  The  form  known  as  the  spike- 
strainer  is  to  be  bought;  the  other,  sometimes  called,  from 
its  shape,  the  "bat "-strainer,  is  not,  so  far  as  I  know,  on 
sale  in  shops,  but  is  made  for  or  by  the  user.  Both  bat 
and  spike-strainer  can,  however,  easily  be  made,  and  I  there- 
fore describe  them  fully, —  measurements,  &c.,  being  taken 
from  two  before  me  that  are  in  daily  use  in  a  leading  shop. 
The  spike-strainer  consists  of  a  piece  of  oak  —  any  h«,rd 
wood  will  do  —  7  inches  long  by  2  inches  wide  and  £  inch 
thick.  The  center  is  slightly  hollowed  on  all  four  sides, 
and  rounded  to  afford  a  comfortable  hold  for  the  hand; 
the  ends  are  tapered  off  to  If  inch  by  £  inch.  In  one  end 
are  three  round  spikes,  in  the  other  two.  The  spikes  are 
f  inch  long,  or  rather  they  project  that  distance  from  the 
wood,  and  at  the  base  they  are  about  or  a  little  over  ^  inch 
thick.  They  might  easily  be  made  by  driving  screws  in 
and  afterwards  filing  them  to  a  point,  or  by  sufficiently 
thick  pieces  of  iron  fixed  and  pointed.  A  high  degree  of 
finish  is  not  necessary.  Figs.  3,  4,  and  5  show  the  general 
shape  of  this  tool,  which  costs  about  50  or  GO  cents  if  bought 
from  a  tool-store.  Figs.  6  and  7  show  the  bat-strainer.  It 
is  12  inches  long  by  3f  inches  wide  by  £  inch  thick:  one 
end  is  rounded  and  shaped  to  form  a  handle,  the  other  19 


TOOLS    AN1>    MATERIALS.  H 

rebated  across  to  the  depth  of  f  inch ;  across  the  wide  part, 
starting  1^  inch  back  from  the  rebate,  is  cut  a  hole  meas- 
uring 2£  inches  long  by  1£  inch  wide  on  top.  In  width  it 
tapers  down  to  £  inch  at  the  bottom,  both  sides  being 
equally  beveled.  In  length  it  is  the  same  throughout.  All 
that  now  has  to  be  done  to  complete  it  is  to  shape  a  piece 
of  wood  so  that  it  will  loosely  fit  the  hole.  To  prevent  this 
small  piece  being  mislaid  it  is  usually  attached  by  a  bit  of 
string  or  strip  of  leather,  or  anything  convenient,  a  few 
inches  long,  to  the  bat.  In  neither  of  these  strainers  is  it 
necessary  to  adhere  closely  to  the  sizes,  which  are  merely 
given  to  form  a  reliable  guide  to  those  who  wish  to  make 
their  own. 

5.  Regulator. —  This  is  a  piece  of  iron  or  steel,  one  end 
of  which  is  flattened  and  rounded,  the  other  tapered  off  to 
a  point.    It  is  made  of  various  lengths  —  my  own  is  9  inches 
—  and  is  sold  per  inch.     Fig.  8  shows  its  shape. 

6.  Needles. —  These  may  be  considered  later  on  as  op- 
portunity for  using  them  occurs,  when  the  best  form  and 
size  for  the  work  on  hand  will  be  named.     They  are  made 
both  curved  and  straight.     A  couple  of  each  will  be  quite 
enough. 

There  may  be  some  difficulty  in  obtaining  all  the  above- 
mentioned  articles  at  an  ordinary  tool-store,  but  they  can 
be  purchased  complete  and  of  good  make  for  about  $10,  in 
many  first-class  stores. 

The  materials  required  for  ordinary  work  are:  webbing, 
5  in.  springs  for  sofa  scrolls,  6  in.  springs  for  seats  of  small 
chairs,  7  in.,  8  in.,  and  10  in.  springs  for  easy  chairs  and  sofa 
seats  and  backs,  thick  canvas  for  covering  over  the  springs, 
scrim  for  covering  the  hair  for  first  stuffing,  twine,  and 
tacks. 

Springs,  when  they  are  not  compressed,  should  be  from 
5  inches  to  8  inches  for  general  purposes;  but  for  large 


12  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

work,  spring  mattresses,  &c.,  they  should  be  from  9  to  10 
inches.  Springs  are  made  from  wire  of  various  gauges, 
those  for  backs  and  soft  seats  being  weaker,  as  a  rule.  All 
springs  should  be  coppered  to  prevent  rust,  which  soon 
causes  rot  and  consequent  disruption  in  a  chair-seat.  The 
sort  having  what  are  known  as  "coiled  ends"  are  to  be 
preferred  to  those  with  tied  ends.  In  the  former  the  ends 
are  fixed  by  a  bend  of  the  end,  while  in  the  latter  they  are 
bound  with  thin  wire,  and  are  not  so  good. 

Horsehair  is  the  principal  material  used  for  filling.  It 
is  sold  at  various  prices.  The  cheapest  quality  is  used  for 
rolls  and  for  very  cheap  furniture,  but  it  is  a  mistake  to  use 
cheap  haii-  for  good  furniture.  Hair  of  good  quality  should 
be  purchased,  and  it  should  be  teased  out  by  hand.  There 
is  a  machine  made  for  the  purpose,  but,  according  to  some, 
the  hair  suffers  in  quality  in  passing  through  it.  The  old- 
fashioned  process  of  untwisting  and  teasing  keeps  the  hair 
hi  its  length :  it  gets  thus  better  separated,  and  goes  farther. 
Ordinary  horsehair-covered  furniture  is  usually  filled  with 
hair  of  a  cheap  kind  for  the  last  stuffing.  The  very  best 
quality  of  hair  is  required  for  mattresses.  Curled  hair  is 
undoubtedly  the  best  material,  though  undoubtedly  there 
is  a  good  deal  of  rubbish  sold  as  such,  but  principally  com- 
posed of  various  fibers  and  very  inferior  hah".  It  is  needless 
to  say  no  respectable  upholsterer  would  use  old  hair  and 
pass  it  off  for  new.  In  cleaning  and  recarding  old  hair, 
great  loss  frequently  takes  place  from  waste,  and  it  will  be 
found  more  satisfactory  hi  the  long  run  to  buy  new  stock. 
When  buying  hair,  order  it  loose,  that  is,  carded, —  not  in 
the  rope. 

Wadding  or  cotton  batting  is  used  to  prevent  the  hair- 
ends  from  coming  through  the  covering,  as  well  as  to  ease 
a  slightly  harsh  feeling  of  hah1  alone :  it  should  be  laid  on 
the  hair  soft  side  downwards. 


TOOLS    AXD    MATERIALS.  13 

Alva,  or  sea-grass,  is  much  used  for  stuffing  and  for  rolls 
in  very  common  furniture.  Alva  is  not  considered  a  fiber: 
it  is  a  seaweed — the  Zostera  marina  of  Linnsous.  In  speak- 
ing of  fibers,  we  may  say  that  Algerian  fiber,  or  Grin  Vegetal, 
is  a  coarse  grass  found  in  Algeria.  Cocoa  fiber  is,  as  every 
one  knows,  procured  from  the  inner  part  of  the  outer  shell 
of  the  cocoanut.  Mexican  fiber  is  obtained  from  the  leaves 
of  the  aloe.  Moths  do  not  like  alva:  this  is,  perhaps,  its 
best  recommendation.  Flocks  are  used  for  beds,  pillows, 
and  bolsters.  They  are  not  fit  materials  for  stuffing  fur- 
niture, and  can  not  be  expected  to  keep  their  form.  They 
do,  however,  answer  for  mattresses  and  beds,  but  care 
should  be  taken  to  obtain  a  good  clean  quality. 

Cocoa  Fiber  is  similar,  prepared  from  the  outer  husks 
of  the  nut.  It  forms  an  excellent  cheap  mattress,  and  is 
much  used,  on  account  of  its  good  qualities  and  low  price, 
for  hospital  and  charitable  institution  bedding. 

Feathers  may  also  be  used  for  stuffing.  Generally  speak- 
ing, the  more  expensive  the  feathers  the  better  they  till,  and 
a  tick  filled  with  good  feathers  will  last  for  years.  They 
should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  purified. 

The  old-fashioned  idea  that  feathers  may  be  made  fit  for 
bedding  purposes  by  putting  them  up  loosely  in  bags,  and 
giving  them  an  occasional  beating,  is  an  erroneous  one. 
White  feathers  command  a  higher  price  than  gray;  and 
though  they  look  better,  it  is  doubtful  whether  they  are 
more  serviceable. 

Down  is  principally  used  for  tilling  quilts.  It  is  sup- 
posed to  be  eider-down,  but  very  little  of  this  is  really  used, 
and  it  is  seldom  seen. 

The  materials  used  for  covering  parlor  and  bedroom 
furniture  are  at  the  present  time  numerous,  but  it  is  per- 
haps unnecessary  to  do  more  than  mention  here  briefly  th<; 
principal  stuffs  and  then-  respective  widths.  These  dat« 


14  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

may  prove  useful  to  our  readers  in  estimating  the  quantities 
required  to  cover  any  particular  suite.  Tapestries,  reps,  and 
damasks  are  supposed  to  be  one-and-a-half  yards  wide,  but 
they  rarely  run  to  more  than  50  inches;  Utrecht  velvet  is 
24  inches  wide,  silk  plush  24  inches,  cretonne  30  to  36  inches, 
and  satins  and  silks  are  made  in  various  widths. 

For  dining-room  and  library  furniture,  moroccos,  roans, 
American  cloth,  and  Utrecht  velvet  are  generally  used. 
Morocco  is  the  skin  of  the  goat,  and  is  by  far  the  best 
leather  used  for  covering  purposes, —  its  durability  and  the 
fastness  of  its  color  being  qualities  not  common  to  any  other 
material.  The  skins  vary  in  size  from  25  inches  up  to  35 
inches  and  36  inches  in  width. 

Roans  (the  skins  of  sheep)  are  inferior  to  morocco,  and 
cost  only  about  half  the  price :  the  sizes  run  from  30  inches 
to  38  inches  wide.  They  are  often  used  on  the  outside  backs 
of  chairs,  &c.,  when  the  fronts  are  covered  with  morocco, 
and  for  that  purpose  do  pretty  well;  but  when  used  for 
actual  covering  they  soon  become  shabby,  and  should  be 
avoided.  Some  of  the  best  roans,  when  quite  new,  so  closely 
resemble  morocco  that  an  experienced  man  often  finds  it 
difficult  to  decide  off-hand  which  is  which.  Roans  are  not 
so  difficult  to  work  as  moroccos,  being  more  elastic  and 
supple.  Nevertheless,  if  the  suite  is  to  be  buttoned  down, 
it  is  advisable  to  glue  some  circular  pieces  of  calico,  about 
the  size  of  a  25-ceut  piece,  on  the  flesh-side  of  the  skin,  and 
au  the  spot  where  the  button-twine  passes  through,  as  it  is 
possible  that  otherwise  the  button  will  tear  through  the 
skill,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  workman. 

American  leather,  or  patent  cloth,  is  about  45  inches  in 
width,  and  works  up  similarly  to  real  leather. 

Web  is  a  stout  linen  banding  about  two  inches  wide, 
made  up  in  lengths  of  18  yards,  &c.  It  is  used  as  the  sup- 
port of  the  stuffing  in  chairs,  &c,,  and  should  be  well 


TOOLS    AXD    MATERIALS.  15 

stretched,  otherwise  the  seat  will  drop  in  the  center.  Those 
known  as  Nos.  10,  12,  and  14  are  generally  used.  See 
Figs.  9  and  10. 

Scrim. — This  is  a  coarse  thin  kind  of  canvas.    The  J  (that 
is,  one  yard)  is  the  most  useful  for  general  purposes,  though 


in  some  cases  f  (or  27  inches)  cuts  to  better  advantage. 
Good  makes  of  this  are  fairly  up  to  the  nominal  widths. 

ffessian  Canvas.—  This  is  like  scrim,  only  coarser  and 
closer.  It  is  generally  known  simply  as  Hessian. 

Wadding. —  Both  white  and  black  is  a  preparation  of 
raw  cotton  coated  on  one  side  with  size  or  thin  glue  to 
form  a  backing.  It  i$  made  up  in  bundles  of  12  yards  ii*  $ 


16  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTEPY. 

piece,  and  is  sold  by  the  yard.  The  width  is  about  18  inches ; 
but  as  it  is  split  open  before  using,  the  available  width  is 
about  one  yard. 

Holland. —  Black,  white,  or  bleached,  gray  or  unbleached, 
are  all  used,  though  the  latter  two  are  chiefly  employed  for 
loose  covers. 


FIG 


Muslin. —  Bleached  and  unbleached. 

Twine,  for  upholstery  purposes,  is  required  in  three 
sorts:  a  fine  thin  make  for  stitching;  one  rather  thicker, 
glazed  whipcord,  for  buttoning;  and  a  coai'se  strong  make 
packing  or  laid  cord  for  fastening  springs  in  heavy  work. 


TOOLS    ASD    MATERIALS.  17 

Morocco  Leather  is  the  skin  of  the  goat,  and  is,  without 
doubt,  a  good  material, —  though,  like  most  other  things,  it 
varies  in  quality.  It  is  prepared  with  various  surfaces,  of 
which  the  principal  are  known  as  Hardgrain,  Crossgrain, 
and  Straightgrain,  and  may  be  had  in  any  of  them,  either 
dull  or  bright.  Dull  is  usually  preferred,  owing  to  its 
superior  appearance ;  but  this  is  entirely  a  matter  of  taste. 
Other  things  being  equal,  the  bright  or  polished  skins  wear 
better,  if  anything.  All  varieties  can  be  procured  in  almost 
any  color.  The  value  of  morocco  depends  not  only  on 
quality  but  on  the  size  of  the  skins.  A  large  skin  is  one 
from  which  a  3-feet  square  could  be  cut,  while  medium  size 
may  be  given  as  about  27  inches  by  32  inches.  Moroccos 
are  occasionally  stamped  or  embossed  with  various  designs. 

Roan  Leather  is  very  similar  in  appearance  to  morocco, 
of  which  it  is  an  imitation, —  so  much  so  that  it  is  sometimes 
difficult  to  distinguish  one  from  the  other  without  an  in- 
spection of  the  rough  side.  This  is  especially  the  case  when 
new.  It  is  sheepskin,  and  does  not  wear  nearly  so  well  as 
morocco,  for  which  it  is  sometimes  substituted. 


PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 


CHAPTER    III. 
UPHOLSTERING   A   CHAIR. 

THE  first   lesson   given  to  an  apprentice  would   be  the 
upholstering  of  a  small  chair.     "We  will  suppose  that 
such  an  article  is  to  be  completed  in  morocco,  with  but- 


toned seat  and  welted  borders.  It  is  very  essential  that 
the  workman  should  know  from  the  first  how  the  article 
is  to  be  finished:  he  can  then  work  accordingly. 

By  an  examination  of  the  two  chairs  shown  at  Figs. 
}1  and  12,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  upholstering  is  shallow, 


UPHOLSTERIXG    A    CHAIR.  19 

or  of  little  thickness.  Springs,  if  used  in  these  chairs,  must 
be  very  short.  Indeed,  it  is  better  to  stuff  such  work  as 
this,  and  complete  it  without  the  use  of  springs. 


Having  cleared  the  bench,  commence  operations  by  giving 
the  chair  three  lengths  of  webbing  from  back  to  front,  and 
three  from  side  to  side,  straining  each  as  tight  as  possible. 
The  webbing  (No.  10  or  12)  should  be  tacked  with  $  inch 
tacks  on  the  bottom  of  the  frame  if  springs  are  used,  and 
on  the  top  of  the  frame  if  there  are  no  springs.  Supposing 
the  chair  to  have  five  6-inch  springs  in  it,  these  must  be 
equally  and  diagonally  placed  and  sewn  to  the  webbing 


20  PRACTICAL    rPHOLSTEET. 

Avith  medium  twine,  live  stitches  being  used,  each  equally 
divided  on  the  ring  of  the  spring.  The  springs  can  not  be 
fastened  too  securely.  Now  with  the  lashing-string  tie 
them  down  to  about  4£  inches  high,  knotting  the  string  to 
the  top  ring  of  the  spring,  but  let  them  be  perfectly  upright 
or  they  will  rattle  when  sat  on.  Tack  the  canvas  with 
^-inch  or  $-inch  tacks  tightly  over  the  springs,  and  sew  the 
top  rings  of  the  springs  to  the  canvas  with  five  stitches 
equally  divided.  Knot  each  stitch  separately.  This  will  be 
best  done  with  a  crooked  needle. 

For  the  first  stuffing  of  hair,  run  a  twine  round  the  edge 
of  the  seat  to  hold  on  the  hair;  pick  or  string  on  a  fair  body 
of  hair  (not  much  in  the  middle,  as  the  chair  is  to  be  but- 
toned) ;  place  the  scrim  over  the  hair,  keeping  the  thread  or 
bridle  quite  square  with  the  chair,  as  it  makes  the  work 
much  easier:  tack  the  scrim  temporarily  all  round  into 
place ;  stitch  it  to  the  canvas  on  the  springs  with  a  double- 
pointed  needle,  and  let  the  stitches  be  about  three  inches 
long  and  4  inches  from  the  outside  edge.  Pulling  the  scrim 
down  to  the  canvas  in  the  middle  of  the  seat  by  thus  stitch- 
ing it  thereto  will  necessitate  the  outer  edge  of  scrim  to  be 
lifted  and  filled  up,  to  form  the  outside  edge  of  seat,  and 
this  must  be  done  without  disturbing  the  center. 

Thus  far  the  work  has  been  tolerably  easy :  we  now  come 
to  the  more  difficult  portion.  Fill  in  the  outer  edge  firmly, 
and  bear  in  mind  that  when  the  scrim  has  been  tacked 
down  with  ^-inch  tacks  and  stitched,  as  the  middle  of  the 
seat  has  been,  it  should  be  about  3  inches  or  3£  inches  from 
top  of  molding,  the  perfect  shape  of  the  chair,  with  the  edge 
of  seat  slightly  hanging  over.  Three  rows  of  stitching  are 
sufficient,  and  the  first  stuffing  is  then  completed. 

Now  commence  the  second  stuffing  Draw  a  line  down 
the  center  of  the  seat  from  back  to  front  and  mark  the 
places  for  ten  buttons, —  three  in  the  front  row,  two  in  the 


UPHOLSTERING    J    CBAIK. 


Jil 


second,  three  in  the  third,  and  finishing  with  two  in  the 
back  row.  The  buttons  should  not  come  nearer  than  3  in. 
to  the  edges  of  the  seat.  Make  a  small  hole  in  the  scrim 


PIG.  13. 

with  the  scissors  in  each  place  marked  for  the  buttons,  so 
that  the  right  place  for  each  may  be  felt  when  the  hair  is 
picked  on  for  the  second  stuffing. 

The  akin  must   now  be  marked   and   creased.     If   the 


22  PRACTICAL  L'lJUOLSTl-:i;Y. 

buttons  are  required  very  deep,  2£  inches  may  be  allowed 
for  fullness:  more  usually  1£  inches  is  allowed  to  each 
diamond.  The  neck  of  the  skin  is  placed  to  the  back,  and 
is  marked  as  shown  in  sketch  (Fig.  13).  The  remaining 
skins  can  be  marked  by  this  one  if  more  than  one  has  to  be 
done;  and  should  there  be  any  marks  in  the  skin,  fit  them 
in  the  plaits  so  as  to  hide  them.  Pick  on  the  hair  for  second 
stuffing.  Care  and  judgment  will  have  to  be  exercised  in 
doing  this,  in  order  that  the  leather  may  be  filled  out  firmly, 
and  as  clear  of  creases  as  possible.  Next  put  the  sheet  or 
pound  wadding  on,  then  the  skin,  and  after  this  put  in  the 
buttons  with  a  slipknot,  using  button  twine,  and  pulling 
them  about  half  down.  Care  must  be  taken  to  work  the 
hair  away  from  under  the  buttons,  and  then  pull  them 
down  to  their  places.  The  twine  must  then  be  knotted  and 
cnt,  off,  and  the  plaits  worked  out  clean.  Wherever  the  side* 
require  more  hair  fill  them  in,  and  pin  the  skin  to  the  edge 
of  first  stuffing,  working  all  the  fullness  into  the  outside 
plaits  which  are  square  with  the  seat.  Now  cut  the  skin  oft' 
to  the  exact  size,  allowing  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
for  turnings ;  put  a  stitch  or  two  in  the  plaits  on  the  outside 
edges  to  hold  them  in  place  and  to  avoid  any  fullness. 

The  strip  which  is  cut  off  will  come  in  for  the  border 
and  welt:  in  the  welt  use  the  lashing  twine.  The  border 
will  require  two  joints,  and  these  should  come  on  the  sidee 
and  about  half  an  inch  from  the  front  corners.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  process  of  jointing  or  splicing:  Cut  the  border 
quite  straight ;  chamfer  the  ends  to  be  joined  so  that  they 
will  lap  over  each  other  about  half  an  inch.  This  must  be 
done  with  a  sharp  knife.  Some  upholsterers  make  use  of 
curriers'  paste  to  secure  the  joint,  but  glue  which  is  nearly 
cold  is  to  be  preferred:  if  used  hot  it  will  penetrate  the  skin, 
leaving  a  black  mark  even  when  dry;  and  it  is  well  to  bear 
in  mind  that  if  any  gets  on  the  face  of  the  leather  it  will 


fi    .1NU    MATERIALS.  28 

disfigure  it.  Paste  will  also  leave  a  mark  if  it  be  allowed  to 
penetrate  the  leather,  but  the  glue  when  cool  is  quite  safe. 
When  the  joints  are  dry,  strain  the  border  tight  round  the 
chair  and  pin  it  temporarily  on ;  then  snip  small  notches  in 
the  seat  and  border,  so  that  they  will  correspond  and  be  a 
guide  to  the  upholsterer:  there  should  be  three  notches  on 
each  side,  and  the  same  number  in  front.  Cut  and  join  the 
strip  for  the  welt  in  the  same  way  as  the  bordei',  and  it  will 
then  be  ready  for  the  upholsterer  to  sew.  When  the  border 
and  strip  are  stitched,  turn  them  up  and  sew  to  the  edge  of 
the  leather  seat. 

Tack  a  small  piece  of  buckram  on  each  corner  of  the  seat 
in  the  front.  This  will  help  to  preserve  a  good  form.  Next 
put  some  wadding  under  the  border  and  tack  it  with  §-inch 
tacks,  leaving  the  welt  straight  and  the  border  without  a 
crease.  If  the  instructions  here  given  have  been  carefully 
carried  out,  the  chair  should  look  perfect.  If  it  is  to  be 
finished  with  banding  and  studs,  drive  the  studs  in  about 
1£  inches  apart;  but  if  the  chair  is  to  be  close  studded,  no 
banding  will  be  required.  Use  canvas  on  the  bottom  only 
when  springs  are  employed.  Two  pounds  and  a  half  of  hair 
is  the  average  quantity  used,  whether  the  chair  has  a  spring 
seat  or  not. 

It  must  be  a  matter  of  consideration  for  the  upholsterer 
whether  the  extra  work  entailed  by  welting  is  compensated 
by  any  advantage.  If  he  thinks  it  is,  this  is  how  he  must 
go  about  the  work,  during  which  it  will  be  well  to  enlist  the 
services  of  some  one  who  can  sew  with  an  ordinary  needle 
and  thread,  besides  being  able  to  use  a  thimble.  Sewing 
through  four  thicknesses  of  morocco  is  not  exactly  easy 
work,  so  it  will  not  do  to  put  anything  down  that  is  not 
quite  nattering  to  the  exalted  abilities  of  those  beings  who, 
as  somebody — is  it  Scott? — tells  us  are  "uncertain,  coy,  and 
hard  to  please."  But,  after  all,  it  is  your  friend,  not  ours, 


24  PRACTICAL    rPHOLSTEKY. 

who  is  going  to  do  the  sewing,  so  what  does  it  matter? 
You  can  quote  Scott,  too,  and  prove  her  to  be  a  ministering 
angel,  as  he  says  she  is,  "when  pain  and  anguish  wring  the 
brow."  They  are  pretty  certain  to  if  you,  unaccustomed, 
use  a  thimble. 

Before  beginning  a  welted-edge  seat,  it  may  be  desirable 
to  know  that  this  form  is  hardly  so  durable  as  a  plain-edge 
seat,  if  subjected  to  constant  wear.  The  mode  of  stuffing  is 
the  same  as  that  described  for  the  other  seats  with  stitched 
roll, —  the  only  difference,  if  difference  it  can  be  called,  for 
it  is  only  comparative,  is  that  the  upholstery  should  be,  if 
anything,  firmer,  especially  on  the  edge,  and  the  hair  spread 
very  evenly.  Unless  these  two  points  are  attended  to,  the 
seat  will  not  keep  its  shape  long,  or  rather  the  wear  on  the 
edge  will  be  more  conspicuous  from  the  welt  emphasizing, 
as  it  were,  any  unevenness  or  irregularity. 

Let  us  suppose  the  seat  is  to  be  plain  on  top,  without 
buttons,  as  it  is  a  simpler  piece  of  work,  and  any  additional 
instructions  can  be  given  after  it  has  been  described.  The 
skin,  or  a  piece  of  it  sufficiently  large  to  cover  the  top  of  the 
seat,  is  laid  on  the  stuffing  and  fastened  by  a  few  pins  driven 
through  it  into  the  stuffing.  There  is  a  special  kind  of  pin, 
or  small  skewer,  sometimes  used  for  the  purpose,  but  a  good 
sized  pin  will  do  as  well  as  anything:  in  fact,  almost  any 
piece  of  wire  three  or  four  inches  long  will  serve,  if  it  can 
be  driven  through  the  leather.  Those  long  steel  pins  with 
a  fancy  knob  at  the  end,  which  ladies  use  to  fasten  the  hair 
they  buy  (I  do  not  know  what  the  present  fashionable 
make-up  is  called,  but  I  dare  say  if  you  ask  any  young  lady 
she  will  tell  you)  on  to  their  heads,  are  just  the  very  thing. 
Mentioning  this  reminds  me  that  the  pin  is  used  just  in  the 
same  way  to  fix  the  morocco  down  that  the  said  hairpin  is 
when  devoted  to  its  original  intention.  It  is  simply  thrust 
through  into  the  hah-,  just  as  a  nail  would  be  into  the  frame, 


UPHOLSTERING    A    CtiAtR.  26 

The  pins  should  be  driven  through  close  to  the  edge  of 
the  morocco,  which  should  be  a  trifle  larger  than  the  seat 
of  the  chair,  that  it  may  overhang  a  little  when  smoothed 
down,  and  stretched  tightly  but  not  excessively.  Two  or 
three  pins  on  each  edge  will  be  sufficient,  as  they  are  only 
needed  to  keep  the  covering  in  position  whilst  it  is  being 
marked  to  the  exact  size  it  is  being  cut  down  to.  The  mark- 
ing is  done  by  drawing  a  line  with  a  piece  of  chalk  all  round 
the  skin  just  on  the  edge  of  the  chair,  so  that  when  the 
margin  is  cut  off  the  top  of  the  seat  shall  be  just  covered, 
and  no  more,  by  the  leather.  We  have  omitted  to  say  that 
notches  must  be  cut,  when  pinning,  for  the  back  legs,  as 
already  directed. 

Now  cut  the  bordering,  which  is  best  if  in  two  pieces 
only,  one  of  them  being  for  the  back  and  the  other  for  the 
sides  and  front.  If  a  sufficient  length  for  the  latter  is  not 
convenient,  it  may  be  made  in  three  pieces,  which  should  be 
stitched  together  so  that  the  join  just  comes  on  the  corners, 
or  the  pieces  may*  be  skivered  and  fastened  with  strong 
paste.  A  good  adhesive  medium  is  made  by  adding  a  little 
resin  to  ordinary  flour  paste. 

Skivering,  as  it  is  called,  is  done  by  shaving  away,  or 
beveling,  with  a  knife,  the  two  pieces  where  they  are  to  join. 
One  piece  is  beveled  on  the  face,  the  other  on  the  back  of 
the  skin,  and  joined  by  putting  the  latter  over  the  former. 
Strong  paste  is  necessary,  and,  as  already  mentioned,  when 
giving  directions  about  buttoned  seats,  care  should  be  taken 
that  it  does  not  stain  through.  A  well-made  joint  of  this 
kind  almost  escapes  notice,  but,  on  the  whole,  we  prefer  the 
sewn  corners.  When  cutting  the  borders  the  top  edge 
should  be  cut  evenly :  the  lower  one  is  not  so  important,  as 
it  can  be  trimmed  off  afterwards. 

The  border  should  have  at  least  f-inch  fullness  in  the 
width.  Much  more  would  be  waste,  but  less  can  hardly  be 


26  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

done  with.  Both  back  and  side  borders  must  have  an  extra 
length  or  fullness  of  not  less  than  half  an  inch  to  allow  for 
turning  under  at  the  back  legs.  Pin  the  bordering  on  to 
the  chair  temporarily,  stretching  it  fully.  Make  notches  on 
it  and  on  the  covering  when  in  position,  so  that  on  sewing 
the  two  together  they  may  fit  rightly.  The  notches,  of 
course,  must  not  come  beyond  the  edges  which  are  turned 
in,  otherwise  they  would  disfigure  the  seat:  one  on  each 
side  and  another  on  the  front  will  be  sufficient.  Another 
piece  is  required  for  the  welt.  This  should  be  a  strip,  say 
f-inch  wide,  and  as  long  as  the  bordering.  It  should  be  in 
one  length,  that  is,  for  the  front  and  sides ;  and  if  a  join  has 
to  be  made,  it  should  be  done  by  skivering,  not  sewing.  A 
piece  of  string,  in  thickness  varying  according  to  the  desired 
bulk  of  the  welt,  will  also  be  necessary  to  serve  as  what  may 
be  called  a  core  for  the  welting  leather.  Ordinary  whipcord, 
or  stitching  twine,  is  as  useful  as  anything  for  this  purpose. 
We  do  not  know  whether  it  is  necessary  to  explain  for  the 
benefit  of  any  who  may  not  understand  what  is  meant  by  a 
welted  seat ;  but  as  it  is  difficult  to  convey  the  correct  im- 
pression, we  may  refer  to  an  ordinary  mattress  as  being  the 
most  familial-  example.  True,  all  mattresses  have  not  welted 
edges,  but  many — we  may  say  most  of  the  good  ones — do. 
On  looking  at  it,  see  if  between  the  cover  on  top  and  the 
border  there  is  a  small  strip,  rounded,  sewn  into  the  edge. 
If  there  is  it  is  made  with  a  welt,  and  a  similar  style  is  just 
what  is  wanted  in  the  chair.  To  sew  the  welt,  border,  and 
top  together,  after  folding  the  welt-strip,  put  the  pieces  in 
their  proper  order  with  their  edges  even.  The  top  covering 
will  have  its  right  side  uppermost,  the  welt  folded  with  the 
string  shown  by  the  black  dot  within  it,  the  bordering  above 
it  with  its  right  or  surface  side  downwards.  The  edges  are 
now  to  be  sewn  together  by  stitching  or  "whipping"  round 
them  with  strong  needle  and  thread.  And  here  the  advan- 


#8  A  (  RAIH.  -27 

tage  of  the  notches  will  be  felt,  as  without  them  it  would 
be  difficult  throughout  the  whole  length  to  preserve  equal 
tension  of  the  top  and  the  border.  With  them  a  kind  of 
check  is  given  (about)  at  every  third  of  the  length.  If  any 
difficulty,  even  with  three  of  them,  be  experienced,  there  its 
no  reason  why  several  more  should  not  be  made;  but  in 
practice,  three  notches  are  generally  found  to  be  sufficient. 
It  is  not  convenient  always  to  make  a  notch ;  so  if  the  work 
is  being  covered  in  a  material  which  it  is  not  judged  advis- 
able to  cut,  a  chalk  mark,  or,  indeed,  any  mark,  such  as  a 
stitch,  may  be  made  instead. 

No  great  care  is  necessary  in  doing  this  part  of  the  work, 
as  the  stitches  need  not  be  very  regular  nor  close  together, 
a  quarter  to  a  half  inch  being  near  enough.  When  thin 
sewing  has  been  done,  another  row  of  needle-and-thread 
work,  requiring  more  regularity  and  fineness  in  sewing, 
must  be  put  in.  Good  strong  thread  must  be  used  here, 
and  if  it  is  waxed  it  will  be  the  better.  The  stitches  must 
go  through  the  four  thicknesses  as  close  to  the  cord  aa 
possible,  and  the  row  be  made  up  of  "backstitching."  We 
think  this  is  a  common  term,  not  peculiar  to  upholstery 
work,  so  it  need  not  be  explained  further.  When  the  stitch- 
ing has  been  done,  the  cover  may  be  put  on  the  seat  and 
sewn  to  it.  This  sewing  may  be,  and  often  is,  omitted ;  but 
it  will  be  hardly  advisable  for  the  amateur  to  do  without  it, 
even  though  an  experienced  upholsterer  occasionally  may 
dispense  with  it.  Then,  again,  coarse  sewing  will  do  as  well 
as  fine,  the  great  matter  being  not  to  distort  the  straight 
even  line  of  the  welt.  The  stitches  are  merely  to  attach  the 
covering  to  the  seat ;  and  as  they  are  close  to  the  welt,  being 
run  through  the  fourfold  edge  into  the  seat,  it  is  obvious 
that  when  the  chair  is  in  use  the  covering  can  not  so  easily 
be  displaced  as  it  otherwise  would  be.  When  sewing  the 
covering  down  see  that  it  is  well  and  evenly  stretched,  and 


28  r/i.-irr/r.u.   ri'FHi 

that  the  welt  is  straight  from  end  to  end.  If  it  should  not 
prove  to  be  so  when  the  sewing  is  finished  it  will  be  better 
to  undo  and  sew  again,  as  it  would  never  do  to  allow  the 
cover  to  remain  with  the  welt  on  the  edge  of  the  seat  in  one 
place,  and  half  an  inch  over  the  top  or  down  the  border  in 
others. 

All  that  now  remains  to  be  done  is  to  turn  the  border 
down  and  fasten  in  the  usual  way,  finishing  off  with  gimp, 
banding,  &c.,  as  already  described.  The  border  ought  to  be 
drawn  tightly  down,  otherwise  it  will  soon  look  puffy  and 
loose.  To  prevent  this  appearance,  it  is  not  at  all  a  bad  plan 
when,  or  rather  before,  covering  a  welted  seat,  to  pull  down 
the  stuffing  by  a  few  ties  in  order  to  flatten  it.  The  ties 
should  be  fastened  underneath  the  seat,  that  they  may  be 
removed  when  the  covering  is  on.  The  stuffing  will  then 
spring  up  to  its  normal  state,  with  the  result  of  a  well 
distended  and  tightly  stretched  covering. 

When  buttoned  seats  are  welted,  the  proceedings  are 
altered  to  a  small  extent,  as  the  border  and  welt  are  sewn 
to  the  top  of  the  covering  after  this  has  been  attached  to 
the  chair  by  the  buttoning,  and  the  pleats  have  been  formed. 
The  buttoning  is  done  as  already  described,  after  which  the 
covering  is  trimmed  to  the  top  of  the  seat;  the  welt  and 
border  are  then  sewn  on.  Before  this,  however,  in  order  to 
prevent  the  pleats  from  the  buttons  to  the  sides,  back,  and 
front,  from  being  disarranged  while  sewing  on  the  welt,  it 
is  always  a  safe  plan  just  to  stitch  them  at  the  ends.  This 
prevents  them  unfolding  during  the  subsequent  sewing,  and 
insures  each  being  kept  on.  Perhaps  we  ought  to  say  that 
the  pleating  is  confined  to  the  top  of  the  covering,  it  being 
stopped  by  the  welt,  so  that  the  border  is  plain  and  without 
any  pleats. 

Corded  Edges. —  Corded  edges,  we  have  already  said, 
are  principally  used  on  drawing-room  and  other  fancy  chair  a 


UPHOLST£KIXCr    A    CHAIR.  29 

when  the  coverings  are  of  two  different  materials,  as,  for 
example,  a  tapestry  top  and  plush  borders.  The  appearance 
of  the  edges  is  very  much  the  same  as  in  the  class  of  cover- 
ings which  have  just  been  treated  of,  only  in  place  of  the 
welt  there  is  a  fancy  cord  either  of  one  color  or  a  combina- 
tion of  the  colors  in  the  covering.  The  mode  of  working  IK. 
in  general,  the  same  as  for  welted  edges,  though  there  is 
sufficient  difference  to  justify  a  separate  explanation  without 
going  any  very  great  length  into  details. 

To  begin :  after  the  stuffing  has  been  done,  out  the  cover, 
that  is,  the  part  for  the  top  of  the  seat,  about  an  inch  larger 
than  it  will  show  when  finished.  Place  it  on  the  seat  and 
fasten  temporarily  to  the  back  edge  with  a  couple  or  three 
pins  of  the  kind  already  named,  and  smooth  it  over  to  the 
front,  a'nd  fasten  in  a  similar  manner,  after  which  do  the 
same  on  both  sides,  stretching  tightly.  Cut  at  the  back 
corners  for  the  legs  close  up,  as  a  soft  thin  covering  is  more 
easily  turned  in.  Only  experience,  however,  will  teach  ex- 
actly the  relative  hardness  or  softness  of  coverings ;  but  as 
some  guide  it  may  be  stated  that  plush  is  a  soft  and  morocco 
a  hard  covering, —  one  of  the  hardest,  indeed,  in  general  use. 
if  we  except  pigskin,  though  this  can  hardly  be  called  an 
ordinary  material,  though  it  may  become  popular.  In  our 
opinion  it  is  a  most  desirable  covering,  and  free  from  the 
objections  that  have  been  often  justly  urged  against  pigskin 
for  upholstery  purposes.  On  account  of  its  comparative  hard- 
ness, however,  it  is  not  a  material  so  suitable  for  a  beginner 
to  commence  upholstery  with  as  something  softer. 

The  cover  being  pinned  on,  cut  it  evenly  round,  leaving 
a  fullness  of  about  half  an  inch  outside  the  pins.  Turn  the 
edges  under,  putting  more  pins  in  as  the  work  proceeds, 
say  1£  inches  distant  from  each  other,  so  that  the  cover 
may  be  kept  well  in  place.  The  border  is  then  stitched  on 
with  strong  thread, —  that  used  in  making  carpets  does  very 


30  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

well.  Ordinary  sewing-cotton  is  not  strong  enough.  The 
covering  is  then  sewn  to  the  edges  of  the  seat  as  in  welting, 
the  pins  being  removed  as  the  sewing  advances.  The  bor- 
dering may  then  be  tacked  down  to  the  frame.  To  complete 
the  edges,  the  cording  must  be  sewn  on  just  along  the  join. 
Tie  round  the  cord  to  prevent  it  fraying  out,  as  directed  for 
gimp,  and  start  at  the  back,  preferably  near  the  leg.  In 
bringing  the  cord  past  this  to  the  side  of  the  chair,  do  not 
stitch  it  on  the  top,  but  press  it  down  between  the  stuffing 
and  the  wood,  so  that  it  is  not  seen.  Continue  the  sewing 
on  the  side,  as  close  to  the  leg  as  convenient,  and  fasten  it 
round  the  seat  till  the  starting-point  is  arrived  at.  We 
ought  to  have  said,  when  beginning  to  cord,  do  not  sew 
quite  at  its  end,  but  leave  half  an  inch  or  so  loose,  and  cut 
off  the  other  end  in  the  same  way  when  the  stitching  is 
finished.  These  two  ends  are  then  stuffed  through  the  seam 
between  the  top  and  the  border,  so  that  the  join  may  be  as 
little  perceptible  as  possible.  It  occasionally  may  happen  in 
cutting  the  top  of  the  covering  that  there  is  sufficient  to 
hang  over  as  far  as  the  wood  of  the  frame  to  which  it  may 
be  nailed,  instead  of  being  cut  close  to  size  and  pinned.  In 
such  a  case,  for  instance,  where  two  seats  can  be  got  out  of 
a  width  of  material  with  a  few  inches  to  spare,  but  still  not 
sufficient  to  use  for  any  other  purpose, —  in  fact,  waste, —  no 
object  would  be  gained  by  cutting  the  covering  exactly  to 
the  top.  We  merely  throw  out  this  hint  for  what  it  is 
worth,  as  there  is  no  fixed  rule,  and  can  be  none,  where  so 
much  depends  on  the  material  which  is  used.  It  is  in  such 
cases  as  this  that  the  art  of  the  upholsterer  comes  in. 


PLAIX    SEATS.  31 

CHAPTER    IV. 
PLAIN    SEATS. 

with  plain  seats  and  welted  borders  are  proceeded 
exactly  in  the  manner  described  in  the  last  chapter, 
as  far  as  the  first  stuffing  is  concerned,  except  that  tho 
springs  may  be  left  a  little  higher.  Some  workmen  first 
finish  the  plain  seat  in  calico,  and  then  strain  the  skin  over 
it,  and  cut  it  to  shape  on  the  calico.  This  is  a  difficult,  and 
not  very  safe,  course  to  adopt.  It  is  much  easier  to  cut  the 
skin  on  the  first  stuffing.  In  order  to  do  so,  lay  the  skin 
clean  out;  do  not  strain  it;  pin  it  round,  allow  for  turning 
in,  and  cut  to  shape.  Prepare  the  border  and  welt  as 
directed  in  the  previous  chapter  for  a  buttoned  seat. 

For  an  unbuttoned  seat,  strain  the  border  round,  and 
notch  both  seat  and  border  for  the  guidance  of  the  uphol- 
sterer ;  take  the  leather  off,  and,  when  it  is  stitched,  hammer 
the  welt  flat.  The  strain  on  the  border  will  prevent  all 
wrinkles,  and  will  bind  the  seat  to  shape. 

The  reader  will  thus  see  that  the  seat  is  all  prepared 
before  the  second  stuffing  is  attempted.  Now  pick  on  the 
hair  and  finish  it  in  calico,  stitch  ties  up  through  the  webs, 
springs,  and  seat,  and  pull  all  down  flat,  making  knots  on 
the  under  side  of  the  webbing.  These  ties  are  merely  tem- 
porary, and  will  be  afterwards  cut  and  drawn  out.  The  seat 
being  tied  down,  the  skin  can  now  be  drawn  on  easily; 
stitch  the  welt  to  edge  of  the  first  stuffing,  and  tack  down 
the  border  to  its  place.  The  temporary  ties  may  now  be 
cut  and  drawn  out,  and  the  seat  will  then  rise  up  as  tight 
as  a  drum,  and  be  in  good  form.  Any  number  of  skins  can 
be  cut  from  one  pattern,  taking  care  always  to  notch  border 
and  seat.  They  can  not  but  be  correct ;  but  remember  to 


32  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

strain  all  the  borders  and  pattern  lengthways  together  on 
the  board,  notching  them  to  the  pattern. 

The  above  directions  answer  for  any  shape.  Welted 
borders  are  not  very  often  ordered,  except  for  first-class 
articles.  If  welting  be  not  required,  the  chair  would  still 
in  other  particulars  be  forwarded  in  a  similar  way ;  the  skin, 
whether  buttoned  or  plain,  would  be  drawn  over  and  tacked 
down  to  the  seat-rail  molding  and  finished  as  before  directed. 
All  plaits  can  be  got  out,  if  sides  and  front  are  straight,  by 
temporary  tacking  and  shrifting  till  you  have  eased  them 
out.  If  round  shaped,  the  plaits  can  not  be  removed  en- 
tirely, but  let  them  be  upright. 

Easy  Chairs  in  Leather.— There  are  no  fixed  rules  as  to 
the  heights  of  springs  or  edges  in  easy  chairs,  for  scarcely 
two  are  alike  in  this  particular.  The  style  of  the  chair  must 
be  taken  into  consideration,  and  the  stuffing  should  be  ad- 
justed with  due  regard  to  the  proportion  of  the  article.  If 
it  be  a  large  easy  chair,  there  should  be  a  bold  swell  on  the 
lower  part  of  the  back,  and  high  edges  on  the  seat ;  but  if 
the  chair  be  small,  these  parts  must  be  proportionately 
lower.  If  the  seat  is  to  be  welted,  the  instructions  before 
given  for  a  small  chair  will  be  applicable.  In  the  allowance 
for  fullness  in  the  diamonds,  allow  1£  inches  or  If  inches 
for  each  diamond, —  that  is,  if  the  diamonds  on  the  scrim 
are  7  inches  long  by  5  incheg  wide,  then  mark  the  skin 
8f  inches  by  7f  inches.  Gentlemen's  or  ladies'  easy  chairs 
would  bo  alike  in  this  respect. 

Lounges  and  Settees. —  Lounges  and  settees  are  consid- 
ered more  difficult  to  upholster,  as  the  skins  have  to  be 
joined  to  make  them  large  enough.  The  seat  of  a  lounge 
usually  takes  three  skins,  and  sometimes  part  of  a  fourth. 
Moroccos  are  seldom  large  enough  to  tack  down  when  the 
seat  is  buttoned.  If  the  seat  be  plain,  cut  them  perfectly 
square  across  the  seat,  and  join  them  with  a  small  welt; 


PLAIN   SEATS.  33 

then  pin  them  over  the  seat  on  the  first  stuffing,  and  cut 
them  to  shape.  Strain  the  border  \vell  round  to  avoid  full- 
ness when  finished,  and  join  it  up  to  the  seat  according  to 
the  instructions  already  given  for  a  small  chair.  If  the 
scroll  and  pad  at  the  back  are  plain,  proceed  in  a  similar 
manner.  If  the  lounge  is  to  be  buttoned,  first  mark  the 
places  for  tufts  on  the  seat  on  the  first  stuffing.  Let  the 
first  row  of  tufts  be  3£  inches  from  the  front  edge  of  the 
lounge,  with  diamonds  7  inches  across  the  seat  by  5£  inches 
lengthways.  Cut  small  holes  in  the  scrim  where  the  tufts 
come,  as  before  directed,  and  mark  the  skins  as  follows. 
The  allowance  for  fullness  on  a  lounge-seat  is  2  inches 
across  and  If  inches  in  the  length  for  each  diamond :  this 
will  be  marked  on  the  skin  9  inches  by  7£  inches.  The 
reason  for  allowing  more  fullness  across  the  seat  is  that, 
being  on  the  round,  the  seat  takes  a  large  sweep,  while 
lengthways  it  is  straight.  Mark  a  piece  of  paper  right  out 
to  the  edge  with  as  many  diamonds  of  the  size  given  as  a 
skin  will  contain.  Place  the  skin  face  up  on  the  board,  and 
the  neck  to  back  of  the  seat ;  put  the  marked  paper  on  the 
skin,  placing  it  in  the  most  economical  position.  This  will 
be  ascertained  by  measuring  from  the  button-marks  nearest 
the  edges,  to  see  if  there  be  leather  enough  to  cover.  The 
best  position  having  been  obtained,  prick  through  the  tuft- 
marks  on  the  paper,  and  thus  mark  the  skin  by  it.  Should 
the  skin  be  small  from  back  to  front,  piece  up  at  the  back, 
and  mark  other  skins  by  the  same  paper  until  the  seat  is 
completed.  The  joins  must  run  zigzag  in  the  plaits,  as 
shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration  (Fig.  14).  The 
button-marks  should  come  exactly  together,  and  be  sewn 
through,  not  over.  Next  welt  and  border  according  to  in- 
structions previously  given  for  small  chair. 

If  a  lounge-scroll  is  buttoned,  it  will  seldom  take  less 
than  a  skiu  and  a  half  to  cover  it.   In  marking  the  diamonds 


PIG,  14, 


PLAIN   SEATS.  35 

on  the  scrim  for  the  scroll,  commence  8  inches  from  the 
seat,  and  mark  them  7  inches  across  and  5  inches  length- 
ways, as  on  the  seat,  then  run  them  up  over  the  scroll  as 
far  as  they  will  go.  Allow  1£  inches  for  fullness  of  each 
diamond  across  the  scroll ;  and  here  note  particularly  that 
the  allowance  for  fullness  lengthways  of  the  scroll  must  be 
increased  at  every  button  from  the  lowest  button  line  one 
inch  for  every  diamond;  for  instance,  if  there  are  four 
diamonds  up  the  scroll,  the  allowance  on  the  first  will  be 
1£  inches,  on  the  second  2^  inches,  on  the  third  3£  inches, 
and  on  the  fourth  4  inches.  These  allowances  will  be  safe 
for  any  ordinary  scroll,  but  it  may  be  varied  a  little  accord- 
ing to  the  quickness  of  the  sweep.  The  reason  for  the  in- 
crease of  the  allowance  in  the  diamonds  of  the  scroll  is 
obvious,  inasmuch  as  when  the  scroll  is  stuffed  the  quick 
curve  of  the  scroll  is  still  more  quickened  by  the  additional 
sweep  (fullness)  of  each  diamond,  and  is  necessarily  much 
larger  than  the  surface  of  the  first  stuffing.  It  is  undoubt- 
edly one  of  the  most  difficult  tasks  for  an  upholsterer  to 
make  a  good-shaped  scroll.  On  the  following  page  is  given 
two  illustrations  (Figs.  15  and  16)  exemplifying  the  manner 
of  upholstering  lounge-scrolls. 

In  stuffing  the  back,  allow  about  1£  inches  in  each  dia- 
mond for  fullness.  Do  not  place  the  bottom  row  of  buttons 
on  the  back  quite  as  low  down  as  on  the  scroll,  so  that  the 
tendency  to  wrinkle  across  the  diamond  may  be  prevented, 
and  the  shape  of  the  swell  improved.  If  there  be  an  arm- 
pad,  the  buttons  should  be  about  5  inches  apart;  small 
pieces  can  be  used  up  on  this,  only  see  to  it  that  the  joints 
come  in  the  plaits;  10-inch  leather  will  be  about  wide 
enough  for  the  arm-pad, —  the  buttons  are  held  down  by 
means  of  twine  passed  through  the  center  of  the  pad,  and 
held  down  on  each  side  by  tacks. 


PLAIN   SKATS.  37 

American  oilcloth  is  treated  in  a  manner  similar  to  leather, 
and  the  same  allowances  for  fullness  will  answer  very  well. 

Hair  seating  can  be  had  in  almost  any  width,  but  can 
only  be  used  on  plain  seats.  It  should  be  laid  rather  loosely 
on  backs  and  scrolls,  since  the  buttons  will  pull  it  to  shape. 
Haircloth  can  not  be  plaited.  In  order  to  upholster  an 
article  in  haircloth,  properly  finish  it  right  out  in  black 
holland  or  canvas:  if  white  material  is  used  it  will  show 
through  the  seating  when  finished.  The  seats  are  usually 
welted:  this  enables  the  workman  to  use  narrower  widths, 
and  these  are  cheaper  in  proportion  than  the  wider  ones. 
Having  cut  out  the  seating  and  borders  to  size  and  shape 
required,  strain  the  border  round  easy  and  welt  it.  When 
the  hair  seating  is  placed  on  and  tacked  a  good  many 
wrinkles  and  plaits  may  appear  in  it.  These  are  difficult 
to  pull  out,  but  they  can  be  removed  by  moistening  with 
water.  When  the  cloth  gets  dry  they  will  be  quite  gone. 
This  moistening  process  saves  much  labor,  and  is  not  known 
to  every  upholsterer.  The  writer  has  often  noticed  common 
furniture  upholstered  in  hair  seating,  and  long  wondered 
how  the  plaits,  &c.,  had  been  got  rid  of,  and  the  fabric 
made  to  look  so  smooth,  until  he  learned  the  moistening 
process,  which  will  be  found  to  answer  admirably. 


38  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

CHAPTER    V. 

PAELOE    FUENITUEE. 

THE  upholstering  of  parlor  furniture  in  soft  materials  is 
easy  work  when  compared  with  the  covering  of  chairs, 
&c.,  in  leather.  The  edges  of  the  seats  need  not  be  made 
anything  like  so  hard  as  where  leather  or  hair  seating  is 
used,  but  should  be  kept  soft.  The  springs  also  should  be 
more  pliable. 

Supposing  a  suite  is  to  be  upholstered  in  tapestry  or  rep, 
the  scroll  should  then  be  furnished  with  soft  5-inch  scroll 
springs.  Tapestries  and  reps  are  wide  materials.  They  are 
supposed  to  be  54  inches  wide,  but  are  scarcely  more  than 
50  inches  in  width.  There  will  be  no  occasion  to  join  such 
fabrics.  If  there  be  a  running  pattern  we  would  prefer  to 
see  it  running  along  the  seat  and  over  the  scroll  lengthways, 
and  up  the  back.  If  the  material  be  wide,  and  the  above 
course  adopted,  no  joining  will  be  required  in  the  seat.  If 
the  material  be  narrow,  as  is  the  case  with  velvet  (24  inches), 
it  will  be  better  to  have  the  joint  lengthways,  putting  it  to 
the  back,  than  to  have  two  joints  across. 

Spring-edges. —  In  making  a  spring-edge  put  8  or  9-inch 
soft  springs  in  the  middle,  keeping  them  farther  from  the 
rails  than  when  not  spring-edged,  so  as  to  give  the  edge- 
springs  room.  Lash  them  in  place,  allowing  them  to  stand 
as  high  as  possible,  consistent  with  the  proportion  of  the 
article  of  furniture.  Put  the  canvas  over  and  tack  it  to  the 
top  of  the  rails  on  the  extreme  inside  edge.  To  form  the 
edge  use  soft  6-inch  springs ;  fix  them  firmly  upright  on  the 
rails,  tie  them  all  to  the  same  height ;  the  string  that  holds 
them  would  be  best  knotted  to  the  top  ring  of  the  spring 
and  held  down  on  each  side  by  f-inch  tacks.  To  form  the 
»hape  of  the  edge,  use  spring  wire  and  bend  it  to  the  exact 


PARLOR   FURNITURE.  39 

shape  of  the  rail,  tying  it  tight  to  the  top  ring  of  the  spring- 
edge  ;  cover  them  with  canvas,  which  latter  should  be  sewn 
to  the  canvas  already  over  the  seat,  and  about  three  inches 
from  the  top  level,  and  to  the  spring-edge.  This  will  allow 
the  springs  in  the  seat  and  edge  to  work  independent  of 
each  other  and  without  strain.  First  stuff  soft  and  free; 
the  stitched  edge  should  be  bold  and  overhanging,  and 
finished  on  the  wire  edge.  See  that  the  springs  do  not 
clatter ;  sew  a  strip  of  canvas  to  the  wire  -edge,  which  must 
be  tacked  to  the  seat-rail,  regulating  the  height  of  border 
by  pulling  to  required  shape.  The  second  stuffing  will  look 
best  finished  exactly  under  the  roll  with  a  bold  cord,  one 
row  of  buttons  on  the  border  or  frilled. 

Plain  Seats. —  Suites  are  often  upholstered  with  plain 
seats  and  buttoned  backs  and  scrolls.  These  can  be  bor- 
dered and  finished  with  cord  on  the  edges,  or,  if  it  be  a 
cheap  job,  they  may  be  tacked  right  down  to  the  molding. 
For  ordinary  materials  the  plain  seats  should  be  first  stuffed 
in  calico;  but  if  the  article  is  to  be  covered  in  velvet  or 
plush,  it  should  be  finished  throughout  in  calico,  and  covered 
with  the  velvet  or  plush  afterwards. 

Buttoned  Seat. —  Mark  out  the  scrim  for  buttons  as  ex- 
plained in  previous  chapters.  In  measuring  the  sizes,  allow 
the  fullness  for  seat  in  addition :  for  a  lounge  or  sofa-seat, 
2£  inches  across  and  2  inches  lengthways  for  each  diamond. 
This  will  do  for  almost  any  parlor  furniture  or  soft  covering. 
The  allowance  on  the  back  of  the  lounge  or  sofa  should  be 
1^  inches  each  way ;  on  the  scroll  1£  inches  across,  increasing 
1  inch  in  the  length  of  fullness  for  every  diamond  from  the 
lowest  row.  Scrolls  are  often,  especially  in  high-class  work, 
buttoned  down  low  to  the  seat. 

For  the  seat  of  an  easy-chair,  whether  a  lady's  or  gentle- 
man's, allow  for  fullness  2  inches  each  way,  and  for  the 
backs  1^  inches.  On  small  chairs,  l£  inches  each  way  for 


40  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

fullness  should  be  allo\ved.  If  the  suite  is  to  be  bordered, 
turn  the  cover  under  and  sew  it  to  the  edge  of  the  scrim  on 
the  top.  Some  upholsterers  stitch  it  first  in  under  the  roll, 
but  this  is  not  to  be  recommended,  and  for  the  following 
reason:  When  the  cover  is  sewn  under  the  roll,  and  the  top 
of  the  seat  has  had  a  little  wear,  it  gets  loose  and  bags 
down,  making  the  work  look  unsightly ;  whereas,  if  the  cover 
is  sewn  to  the  top  edge  of  the  scrim,  it  can  not  possibly 
move. 

The  border  is  often  varied  in  color,  plush  borders  being 
plentifully  introduced  at  the  present  time,  but  the  seat  and 
the  border  should  either  match  well  or  form  a  happy  con- 
trast. "Where  there  is  no  molding  round  the  seat-rail  the 
addition  of  a  fringe  often  has  a  pleasing  effect.  These  in- 
structions for  the  upholstering  of  a  suite  apply  to  almost 
any  kind  of  sofa,  easy-chair,  or  small  chair. 

Quantities. —  The  quantity  of  covering  materials  for  an 
ordinary  parlor  suite  with  moldings  on  the  seat-rails  and 
plain  seats  would  be  as  follows: — 

Velvet  or  plush, 18  to  20  yards. 

Eep, 8    "      9      " 

Tapestry, 8    "      9      " 

Cretonne, 14    "    16      " 

Cord, 22  yards. 

Gimp, 36      " 

Buttons, £  gross. 

For  upholstering  a  similar  suite  with  buttoned  seats  and 
backs,  a  much  larger  quantity  of  material  would  be  required, 
namely: — 

Velvet  or  plush, 24  to  26  yards. 

Eep, 10    "    12      " 

Tapestry, 10    "    12      " 

Cretonne, 18    "   20      " 

Buttons, 2  gross. 

Cord, 22  yards. 

Gimp, 36      " 


PARLOR    FURNITURE. 


41 


French  Work. —  There  has  been  a  decided  revolution  in 
upholstery  work  during  the  past  few  years.  Artistic  forms, 
combined  with  French  luxuriousness,  are  much  sought  after, 
and  some  of  the  designs  thus  introduced  are  decidedly 
tasteful.  This  style  of  work  is  upholstered  very  soft,  and 


Fio.  17. 

can  only  be  done  with  a  good  quality  of  hair,  otherwise  it 
will  lose  its  proper  shape  before  it  has  been  in  use  any 
length  of  time.  The  accompanying  illustration  (Fig.  17) 
illustrates  a  pattern  of  this  class  of  furniture,  which  is  just 
now  in  favor. 

The  seat  of  such  a  chair  should  be  filled  with  very  soft 
8-inch  springs.     There  is  no  stitched-up  edge  to  the  seat, 


42  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

but  the  scrim  is  tacked  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  frame  in 
front,  and  is  finished  with  a  round  edge  in  calico  hanging 
slightly  over.  Having  upholstered  the  plain  part  of  the 
seat  in  the  usual  way  in  tapestry,  stitch  it  to  a  line  pre- 
viously mai-ked  on  the  calico.  Recollecting  that  the  front 
is  tufted,  mark  the  half  diamonds  on  the  calico  round  the 
front,  as  shown  in  the  illustration,  keeping  the  buttons 
about  three  inches  apart,  and  snip  holes  for  button-marks. 
Next  mark  the  plush ;  and,  in  doing  so,  allow  a  good  1£  in. 
for  fullness.  Fill  in  hah-  on  the  top  of  the  calico,  and  tuft 
it  round,  sewing  it  to  the  tapestry  so  as  to  keep  it  in  place, 
and  finish  with  cord  or  gimp,  which  will  cover  the  stitches. 
The  tacks  on  the  rail  are  covered  with  festoons.  These 
should  also  be  of  plush,  and  finished  with  a  fringe  about 
1  inch  or  1^  inches  deep.  The  inside  of  the  back  is  webbed, 
canvased,  and  finished  in  tapestry,  without  any  stitching. 
The  sides  are  done  similarly.  The  pad  which  runs  round 
the  arms  and  back  is  finished  in  scrim  cut  on  the  cross: 
this  makes  it  softer,  and  helps  it  to  hold  better  than  if  cut 
square.  It  is  necessary  to  use  good  hah-  for  such  an  article, 
and  to  tack  it  rather  firm  on  the  pads ;  but  it  should  not  be 
stitched,  except  in  the  front  scrolls.  Mark  the  pad  for  the 
buttons  at  about  four  inches  distance,  and  snip  holes  to 
allow  the  buttons  to  sink  a  little.  Lay  on  the  wadding,  and 
cover  with  the  plush,  finishing  with  a  good-sized  cord.  The 
whole  of  the  chairs  will  thus  be  of  tapestry,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  buttoned  part,  the  end  arm-borders,  and  the 
festoons.  The  festoons  are  cut  wider  at  the  bottom  than 
the  top,  the  bottoms  being  rounded  a  little.  This  forms 
the  fullness  and  the  plaits  near  the  bottom,  leaving  the  top 
gradually  plain.  These  are  made  and  tacked  on  separately, 
a  bold  cord  covering  the  tacks  as  on  the  inside  back. 

The  next  illustration  (Fig.  18)  shows  a  similar  chair.    Our 
object  in  giving  it  is  to  point  out  the  bolster  on  the  top  of 


PABLOH   FUKNlTUltti.  43 

the  back.  It  looks  at  first  glance  as  if  it  were  made  with 
the  frame;  but  this  is  not  the  case.  The  bolster  on  the  top 
is  formed  entirely  in  the  stuffing,  and  is  made  as  follows : — 
Pick  or  string  on  the  top  rail  a  good  body  of  first-class  hair, 
and  make  it  quite  firm,  but  not  tight ;  cut  the  scrim  on  the 


FIG.  18. 

cross  and  about  20  inches  wide ;  tack  it  down  to  form  a  well- 
shaped  bolster,  and  tack  the  ends  down ;  stitch  it  up  to  a 
fine  edge,  and  make  it  of  an  easy  and  a  graceful  contour,  as 
shown  in  the  illustration.  There  is  no  stitching  required  in 
any  other  part  of  the  bolster,  nor  in  any  other  part  of  the 
chair. 


44  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

Needlework  is  often  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  uphol- 
sterer, to  be  used  for  coverings.  Work  of  this  kind  is  fre- 
quently out  of  the  square,  and  puckered.  This  may  be 
rectified  by  straining  the  work  on  the  board  as  tight  as 
possible,  and  quite  square,  with  the  face  downwards.  Having 
placed  a  clean  cloth  under  it,  now  damp  and  press  it  until 
quite  dry.  When  taken  off  the  board  it  will  be  found  per- 
fectly straight  and  square. 


FIG.  19. 

Crewel-work  is  generally  wrought  on  satin  or  cloth,  and 
may  therefore  be  suitably  bordered  with  plush  of  a  shade 
similar  to  that  used  in  the  needlework.  Wool-work  appears 
to  advantage  with  black  cloth,  the  cord  and  gimp  being 
similar  in  color  to  the  wool  employed. 

Spanish  Chair  in  Needlework. —  There  is,  perhaps,  no 
chair  more  suitable  for  the  display  of  strips  of  needlework 
than  the  kind  here  illustrated  (Fig.  19).  It  is  also  inexpen- 
sive, being  entirely  stuffed  over.  Suppose  the  workman  has 
one  to  do  with  needlework  center  and  plush  sides  and  bor- 
der as  per  sketch  shown.  He  will  then  first  stuff  it  without 
springs,  keeping  it  quite  flat  across,  and  giving  it  a  good 


PARLOR    FUEXITURE.  45 

side-line,  as  shown.  Mark  the  middle  for  the  strip  of  work ; 
pick  or  string  on  a  little  hair  and  wadding-;  put  on  the 
needlework ;  pin  it  to  a  perfect  line ;  sew  it  in  its  place  with 
a  G-inch  needle  right  through  the  canvas  and  webs.  By 
letting  the  needle  slant  outwards  from  the  work  a  more 
rigid  stay  will  be  obtained.  All  chairs  this  shape,  when 
upholstered  plain,  have  a  tendency  to  wrinkle  across,  and 
this  can  only  be  avoided  by  keeping  the  covering  quite  flat. 
On  the  buttoned  side-margin  it  is  sufficient  to  mark  the  in- 
side line  of  buttons,  allowing  for  fullness  1|  inches  where 
it  is  pretty  straight,  increasing  a  quarter  inch  to  a  half  inch 
where  it  rounds  (top  and  front),  decreasing  the  same  amount 
in  the  hollow.  A  cord  partaking  of  the  colors  of  the  work 
and  plush  hides  the  point.  The  borders  should  be  finished 
with  the  same.  Too  much  care  can  not  be  given  to  the  out- 
lines, as  on  this  depends  the  appearance  of  the  whole.  We 
can  safely  say  that  if  the  work  as  here  described  be  carefully 
carried  out  there  is  no  chair  that  sets  off  needlework  to 
greater  advantage. 


46  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

CHAPTER    VI. 
PARLOR    FURNITURE.—  (Continued.) 

French  Settee. — The  settee  illustrated  in  Fig.  20  is  most 
suitable  for  upholstering  in  plush  and  tapestry,  or  any  two 
colors  to  harmonize  nicely.  Let  the  springs  in  the  seat 
stand  high  and  soft.  The  front  edge  should  have  no  stitch- 
ing, but  be  simply  filled  in  and  rounded  gradually  off  to  the 
rail.  On  the  back  and  end  of  the  arms  stitch  a  well-shaped 
edge,  as  shown  in  the  illustration;  finish  seat  and  back  in 
calico,  and  mark  on  it  the  shape  to  which  to  work  the  bor- 
ders ;  also  set  out  the  button-marks,  snipping  holes  to  allow 
them  to  sink.  The  plain  portion  of  this  settee  is  supposed 
to  be  covered  with  tapestry,  and  the  buttoned  borders  and 
festoons  are  of  plush.  The  base  festoons  should  be  cut 
rounded  on  the  bottom,  and  about  three  inches  wider  than 
the  top,  each  one  to  be  separate  and  finished  before  being 
tacked  on,  as  is  also  the  plush  festoon  shown  on  the  top  of 
the  back.  This  is  really  added  after  the  article  is  completed, 
and  simply  hangs  loosely  over,  being  finished  with  narrow 
fringe.  On  the  front  border  a  narrow  bordering  of  hair 
should  be  picked  or  strung  on,  to  fill  out  the  diamonds 
pretty  firm,  as  this  part  and  the  arms  are  exposed  to  the 
most  wear.  Allow  1£  inches  to  If  inches  to  the  diamond 
for  fullness.  The  fringe  under  the  base  festoons  could  be 
dispensed  with ;  or  tapestry,  the  same  as  used  for  the  seat, 
might  be  substituted. 

Circular  Ottoman. —  The  top  part  of  the  box  of  the  otto- 
man shown  in  Fig.  21  should  be  made  of  hard  wood,  not 
less  than  one-inch  stuff,  framed  together  so  as  to  admit  of 
the  upholsterer's  needle  going  through  wrhen  buttoning  the 
border.  In  the  top  five  G-inch  springs  could  be  placed.  Tie 


PAELOR    FURXITI'RE. 


47 


them  in  their  place, —  of  course  not  too  high,  as  the  article 
when  complete  should  not,  including  castors,  be  more  than 


18  inches  high.     First  stuff  it  soft,  no  stitching  being  em- 
ployed; finish  it  in  calico  rounded  gradually  down  to  the 


48  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

rail.  Mark  the  top  circle  for  the  border  to  finish  on  the 
calico ;  also  set  out  the  tufts  on  the  calico.  On  the  border 
allow  1£  inches  down  by  2£  inches  round  the  seat  for  fullness ; 
put  on  the  top  circular  piece,  sewing  it  to  the  calico ;  now 
snip  the  holes  in  the  calico  for  the  buttons.  Pick  or  string 
on  more  hair  for  the  buttons,  and  finish  as  shown.  The 
circular  box  should  be  made  with  bottom  to  screw  off:  it  can 
then  be  lined.  Tack  or  glue  a  strip  of  the  covering  round 


Yin.  -2}. 

the  top  edge  of  the  box.  The  lining  to  finish  is  sewn  to  this 
on  the  inside  edge,  and  the  covering  on  the  outside.  The 
festoons  are  of  course  equally  divided,  four  inches  being 
allowed  for  fullness  across  each.  Draw  them  up  on  a  thread, 
and  finish  with  cord  and  fringe,  the  shaped  pieces  imme- 
diately under  the  cover  or  cut  being  separately  in  buckram, 
finished  with  fringe  and  cord  heading.  This,  being  fixed  to 
the  box,  allows  the  cover  to  rise  unencumbered  and  free, 


PARLOR    FURNITURE.  49 

Box  Ottoman. —  In  Fig.  22  we  show  a  square  or  oblong 
box  ottoman  to  be  upholstered  in  any  two  harmonizing 
colors,  or  in  self-colors.  The  top  of  this  should  be  of  birch, 
or  any  hard  wood,  as  soft  wood  will  twist  with  the  strain. 
Finish  the  top  of  this  in  the  same  way  as  described  for  cir- 
cular ottoman  (Fig.  21);  but,  the  sides  being  square,  the 
fullness  will  be  the  same  each  way  in  the  buttoned  border, 
that  is,  1£  inches.  The  festoons  should  be  cut  separately, 
tacked  to  the  box,  and  finished  with  a  cord  heading.  The 
bottom  should  screw  off,  so  as  to  enable  the  workman  to 
make  a  good  job  of  the  lining.  When  completed,  the 
ottoman  should  not  stand  more  than  18  inches  high. 


FIG.  22. 

Double-pouffe  Ottoman. —  This  ottoman,  represented  in 
Fig.  23,  is  made  to  look  like  two  cushions  placed  one  on  the 
top  of  the  other.  These  can  be  fixed  or  worked  on  a  center 
swivel.  The  bottom  cushion  is  composed  of  a  wood  frame 
covered,  the  border  shown  being  fixed  to  the  wood  with  nail 
buttons.  The  top  cushion  has  a  wood  frame  equal  to  half 
of  the  bottom  one.  The  springs  will  be  placed  in  this,  and 
the  stuffing  rounded  off  to  the  shape  of  the  bottom  half. 


50 


PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 


The  border  will  be  buttoned  according  to  instructions  given 
for  circular  ottoman  (Fig.  21),  and  finished  as  shown  in  the 
present  illustration.  The  ottoman  being  square,  1£  inches 


FIG.  23. 


for  fullness  in  the  buttoning  will  be  sufficient  each  way. 
The  rougk  sketch  here  given  (Fig.  24)  shows  the  frame  as 


PIG.  24. 

it  would  reach  the  hands  of  the  upholsterer.  An  ottoman 
like  this  is  very  suitable  for  needlework,  with  borders  of 
plush  to  harmonize. 


PARLOR    FURNITURE.  51 

Gipsy  Tables  and  Mantel-boards. —  Gipsy  tables,  mantel- 
boards,  &c.,  are  often  bordered  with  needlework.  They 
should  be  shaped  up  on  buckram,  and  the  back  lined  with  a 
material  of  a  color  similar  to  that  of  the  groundwork,  the 
lower  edge  being  finished  with  fringe,  according  in  its  gen- 
eral character  with  the  needlework.  The  upper  edge  of  the 
border  will  be  sewn  to  the  upper  front  edge  of  the  mantel- 
board  or  table-cover,  and  finished  with  a  cord.  This  will 
cover  the  stitches,  and  should  harmonize  with  the  fringe 
below.  Borders  of  needlework  should  not  be  strained,  but 
allowed  to  go  as  free  as  possible.  There  is  always  a  diffi- 
culty in  getting  borders  to  fit  nicely  where  the  article  is 
square-cornered  or  of  octagon  shape;  but,  by  having  a  light 
wood  bracket  of  the  depth  of  the  border  fixed  under  the 
table-top,  the  work  can  be  made  to  appeal-  as  sharp  and 
true  as  possible. 


52  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

CHAPTER    VII. 

BEDKOOM    PUKNITUKE. 

Spring  Mattresses. —  There  are  many  patterns  of  spring 
mattresses  now  in  the  market.  I  will,  however,  confine  my 
remarks  to  the  old-fashioned  box-frame  spring  mattress.  In 
its  construction  there  would  be  required  eight  laths  across 
the  bottom,  and  the  sides  should  be  about  six  inches  high. 
A  4-feet  6-inch  mattress  will  require  forty  10-inch  springs, 
that  is,  five  for  each  lath.  These  will  be  fastened  to  the 
laths  with  small  staples,  and  then  tied  down  so  as  to  make 
them  a  little  rounding,  after  which  they  must  be  thoroughly 
lashed  each  way. 

Strong  canvas  should  be  used  for  covering  the  springs, 
and  these  must  be  sewn  firmly  to  the  canvas,  as  previously 
described  in  the  chapter  devoted  to  the  stuffing  of  a  single 
chair.  A.  well-stitched  roll  must  be  fixed  round  the  box,  and 
it  should  be  about  three  to  four  inches  high.  Pick  on  the 
canvas  about  20  Ibs.  of  hair  or  25  Ibs.  of  wool ;  place  the 
tick  over  and  temporarily  tack  it ;  let  the  stripe  of  the  tick 
run  from  head  to  foot;  then  tuft  the  tick  and  turn  the 
whole  upside  down,  tacking  the  tick  on  the  lower  edge  of 
the  box.  Nail  double  webbing  on  the  under  side,  and  about 
one  foot  from  the  corners,  for  handles.  Cover  the  under 
side  with  canvas,  and  the  mattress  is  then  finished. 

If  a  mattress  is  required  with  a  tufted  top  and  welted  or 
bound  border,  an  extra  three  quarters  of  an  inch  to  the  foot 
should  be  allowed  each  way  for  fullness,  when  cutting  the 
tick  for  the  top.  Mark  out  the  top  for  tufts  about  six 
inches  from  the  edges,  making  the  diamonds  about  twelve 
inches  to  fourteen  inches.  Cut  the  border  to  the  exact  size 
required,  and  rather  tight  all  round.  The  top  will  be  made 


BEDROOM   FURNITURE.  g$ 

to  come  in  the  border  by  a  small  plait  opposite  each  outside 
tuft.  If  the  tick  is  a  red  or  blue  striped  one,  pipe  the  border 
with  red  or  blue.  It  looks  more  suitable  than  binding  on  a 
spring  mattress.  The  top  will  then  be  quite  free  and  soft, 
and  will  present  a  good  appearance. 

For  the  convenience  of  removal,  spring  mattresses  are 
frequently  made  in  two  halves.  In  such  a  case,  the  sides  of 
the  spring-boxes  will  each  be  half  the  length  of  the  bed. 
There  will  not  be  any  ends  to  go  across  the  middle  of  the 
bed.  The  springs  will  be  fixed  as  previously  described, 
except  that  the  two  middle  rows  of  springs  should  be  so 
arranged  that  they  may  nearly  meet.  A  piece  of  cane 
should  be  lashed  across  the  two  ends  of  the  half-boxes 
where  they  join  in  the  middle  of  the  bed,  so  as  to  keep  the 
boxes  square,  and  at  the  same  time  form  a  base  to  work  on. 
This  cane  must  be  stitched  up  all  round,  keeping  the  middle 
soft,  otherwise  the  cane  will  be  felt  when  the  bed  is  used. 
Border  and  finish  each  half  as  before  directed,  keeping  both 
the  same  height,  so  that  they  may  correspond  with  each 
other  exactly  when  placed  on  the  bedstead. 

Folding  Mattress. —  Another  kind  of  spring  mattress  is 
made  so  as  to  fold  up  in  two  halves,  like  a  book.  "  The  top 
of  such  a  mattress  will  be  all  in  one  piece,  the  boxes  being 
similar  to  those  previously  mentioned,  but  only  about  five 
inches  high.  Put  the  two  half-boxes  together  on  the  bench, 
fixing  the  springs  as  if  the  mattress  were  in  one  piece.  Lash 
the  springs  each  way,  and  take  care  to  keep  the  top  flat, 
otherwise  the  mattress  will  not  fold  easily.  Place  the  canvas 
over  the  top  in  one  piece,  cutting  it  a  little  at  each  side 
where  the  fold  occurs.  Cut  the  tick  also  in  one  piece, 
allowing  three  quarters  of  an  inch  to  the  foot  for  fullness. 
Cut  a  border  4£  inches  wide,  and  so  as  to  fit  moderately 
tight,  allowing  two  inches  for  turnings  in  the  center  fold. 
Having  marked  the  top,  ease  it  into  this,  as  previously 


54  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTER*. 

described.  A  second  border  must  now  be  sewn  to  this,  to 
make  it  sufficiently  wide  to  tack  in  under  the  bottom  of  the 
spring-box.  Run  a  twine  round  on  the  edge  of  the  case, 
and  pick  on  a  good  body  of  hair.  This  should  be  very  firm, 
as  there  will  be  no  stitched  up  roll.  Place  the  tick  over, 
and  tack  it  temporarily  in  position.  Tuft  the  mattress,  and 
stitch  the  border  round,  as  before  described  for  an  ordinary 
mattress.  The  canvas  and  tick  are  the  only  connection  that 
now  holds  the  two  halves  together.  Fold  one  half  on  the 
top  of  the  other ;  cover  the  open  ends  with  canvas  or  tick, 
sewing  it  to  the  cut  borders;  cover  two  pieces  of  web  with 
the  same  kind  of  tick,  stitching  a  piece  of  cane  or  spring- 
wire,  about  three  inches  long,  crossways  to  the  end  of  one, 
with  a  button  large  enough  to  take  it  in  the  other;  nail 
these  to  the  bottom  of  the  frames,  one  on  each  half,  so  as  to 
secure  them  together  when  folded  for  removal.  This  is  an 
expeditious  method  of  making  a  spring  mattress  that  will 
stand  a  considerable  amount  of  wear. 

If  the  tick  be  of  check  pattern  the  appearance  will  be 
much  improved  by  cutting  the  top  border  on  the  cross,  and 
the  bottom  one  on  the  straight. 

If  a  spring  mattress  is  made  in  two  parts,  it  is,  however, 
better  that,  instead  of  being  in  two  equal  parts,  the  foot 
part  be  made  only  one  third  of  the  whole  length,  and  the 
head  part  two  thirds,  so  that  the  join  shall  not  come  in  the 
center,  or  where  the  greatest  weight  of  the  body  would  be. 

If  any  of  these  kinds  of  mattresses  are  to  be  made  with 
a  spring-edge,  the  wood  sides  will  not  be  required,  but 
merely  a  lathed  frame  as  a  base  for  the  springs.  The  latter 
will  be  fixed  standing  flush  to  the  edge  of  the  frame ;  then 
lash  them  well  to  shape.  A  piece  of  stout  cane  must  be 
lashed  to  the  top  edge  of  the  springs  all  round  the  outside 
to  preserve  the  form.  A  roll  will  then  be  worked  round  to 


BEDROOM  FURNITURE.  55 

this,  and  it  will  be  finished  in  the  same  way  as  the  mattress 
previously  described. 

Hair  and  Wool  Mattresses. —  In  cutting  the  ticks  for 
these,  measure  the  bedstead  and  allow  the  tick  three  quar- 
ters of  an  inch  to  the  foot  larger  for  fullness.  The  tufting 
will  absorb  this,  leaving  the  mattress,  when  finished,  of  the 
correct  size.  The  borders  are  usually  cut  4£  inches  deep, 
not  allowing  anything  for  the  binding.  A  good-sized  mat- 
tress cut  in  this  way  would  be  fairly  filled  with  9  Ibs.  of 
medium  hair  or  wool  to  each  foot  across  the  mattress.  A 
3-foot  mattress  would  require  about  30  Ibs.,  this  being  the 
smallest  quantity  that  can  be  fairly  used.  Tuft  the  mattress 
with  a  10-inch  or  12-inch  diamond,  and  about  six  inches 
from  the  edge.  The  better  the  quality  of  the  hair  or  wool 
used,  the  better  will  it  fill  out  in  stuffing.  A  French  mat- 
tress or  pallet  would  take  about  6  Ibs.  to  the  foot.  French 
mattresses  being  made  of  half  wool  and  half  hair,  the  ticks 
are  cut  without  a  border.  They  will  require  an  allowance  of 
1^-  inches  to  the  foot  each  way  for  fullness  to  make  them 
finish  the  right  size.  Only  one  side  has  to  be  sewn  together, 
as  there  is  no  border.  Spread  one  half  of  the  cover  on  the 
boards,  and  let  the  other  hang  down  out  of  the  way.  Let 
us  suppose  that  18  Ibs.  of  wool  and  an  equal  quantity  of 
hair  are  required  in  a  5-foot  mattress.  First,  put  9  Ibs.  of 
wool  evenly  over  the  half  tick,  then  the  18  Ibs.  of  hair  in 
the  center,  and  the  remaining  9  Ibs.  of  wool  on  the  top. 
Pull  over  the  other  half  of  the  tick,  pin  it  round,  and  stitch 
it.  It  now  only  requires  tufting,  and  the  job  will  then  be 
finished,  making  a  soft  and  comfortable  mattress  suitable 
for  using  on  the  top  of  a  spring  bed.  If  this  kind  of  mat- 
tress is  to  be  stuffed  with  all  hair,  it  should  be  sewn  round 
before  filling  it.  The  only  object  of  having  the  mattress 
open  is  to  keep  the  wool  and  hair  separate. 


56  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTER  f. 

Bedding. —  A  good  feather-bed  tick  should  be  cut  with  a 
5-inch  border,  and  be  of  the  actual  size  of  the  bedstead, 
simply  allowing  for  turnings.  The  stripes  should  run  length- 
wise of  the  bed  and  crosswise  on  the  borders.  The  welting 
will  also  be  formed  of  the  tick  material,  cut  on  the  cross. 
About  8  Ibs.  of  feathers  to  the  foot  in  the  width,  and  these 
-of  medium  quality,  are  required  to  fill  a  bed.  For  instance, 
for  a  5-foot  bed  will  be  required  40  Ibs.  of  feathers.  Of 
course,  the  better  the  quality  of  feathers,  the  better  they 
will  fill.  Bolsters  are  cut  20  inches  wide  (40  inches  round), 
and  then:  length  is  determined  by  the  width  of  the  bed. 
Bedding  manufacturers  usually  cut  bolsters  and  pillows  36 
inches  for  stock  sizes.  The  ends  are  gathered  and  welted  into 
an  oval  piece  about  12  inches  by  8  inches,  or  to  square  piece 
14  inches  by  6  inches,  rounded  on  the  ends  thus  (+  +). 
Half  circle  with  the  compass  from  -f-  mark,  the  welt  being 
/ut  on  the  cross.  The  two  pillows  are  also  cut  20  inches 
wide,  and,  of  course,  half  the  length  of  the  bolster:  they 
are  simply  sewn  to  finish  square.  Bolsters  require  7  Ibs.  of 
feathers,  and  pillows  3  Ibs.  each.  These  weights,  if  for  5-foot 
bedding,  would  only  be  sufficient  if  of  very  good  quality. 

Common  flock-beds  are  usually  cut  to  the  size  of  the 
bed,  allowing  for  turnings,  but  without  a  border.  The 
bolsters  and  pillows  for  flock-beds  are  finished  square,  and 
the  quantities  for  filling  are  about  the  same  as  those  given 
for  common  feat/kerb. 


BED    DE APERIES.  57 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

BED    DRAPERIES. 

To  take  the  correct  measure  for  bed  draperies  on  an  iron 
or  brass  bedstead,  the  bedstead  must  first  of  all  be  put 
up.  Measure  the  length  and  depth  of  base-valances  for  the 
sides  and  foot,  and  the  drop  for  curtains  from  the  curtain- 
rod  to  the  floor.  Take  the  height  and  width  of  head,  allow- 
ing sufficient  in  width  to  pass  round  the  head  pillars  and  to 
tie  with  tapes  from  side  to  side  at  the  back.  If  the  bed- 
stead be  of  wood,  the  material  can  be  fixed  with  tacks. 
Measure  for  size  and  shape  of  tester-piece,  and  for  the 
length  round  for  the  tester-valance.  Generally  there  is  a 
wood  frame  made  for  the  tester  in  iron  bedsteads,  the  same 
shape  but  about  half  an  inch  larger  all  round  than  the  iron- 
work. The  cost  of  this  frame  is  trifling,  and  it  keeps  the 
tester  material  from  bagging  down.  It  also  enables  the 
workman  to  fix  the  valance  firmly,  so  that  it  can  not  be 
moved  out  of  place,  as  is  frequently  the  case  with  those 
which  are  simply  tied  to  the  ironwork  with  tape.  The  head 
and  tester-cloth  should  be  backed  with  forfar  or  strong 
cotton.  In  cases  where  there  is  no  wood  frame,  the  best 
way  is  to  cut  the  tester-cloth  nicely  to  shape.  Sew  the 
valance  to  it  before  hanging.  Fix  to  the  ironwork  with 
tapes  sewn  about  six  inches  apart  on  the  top  inside  edge  of 
the  valance. 

When  cutting  the  base-valances,  let  them  reach  to  within 
one  inch  of  the  floor,  finishing  them  with  a  hem  at  the  bottom. 
In  order  to  fix  them  to  the  bedstead,  have  some  wood  laths 
made  about  two  inches  wide.  These  will  rest  flat  on  the 
iron,  keeping  the  valance  rigidly  in  place.  Cut  strips  of 
material  wide  enough  to  go  round  the  laths,  and  finish  them 


58  PRACTICAL  VPSOLSTERT. 

with  a  binding  to  the  top  edge  of  the  valance.  A  few  tapes 
will  hold  the  laths  firmly  on  the  bedstocks. 

The  curtains  when  finished  should  just  touch  the  floor. 
The  top  and  bottom  turnings  will  require  about  four  inches. 
If  the  tester-valance  be  of  dimity,  it  will  look  well  with  a 
box  plait, —  that  is,  a  3-inch  plait  and  a  3-inch  space,  and 
about  16  inches  or  14  inches  deep ;  or  it  could  be  cut  about 
12  inches  deep  in  the  center,  and  sloped  to  18  inches  at  the 
ends.  Finish  the  lower  edge  of  the  valance  with  a  fringe, 
and  the  upper  edge  with  a  rope-cord  of  about  2  inches  or 
1^  inches  diameter,  made  for  the  purpose  and  matching 
with  the  valance;  or  make  a  frilling  of  the  same  material, 
1-inch  plait  and  1-inch  space,  about  3  inches  wide.  This 
can  be  sewn  or  tacked  on.  This  will  also  require  to  be  cut 
twice  the  length  required  to  finish,  and  gives  quite  an  effect- 
ive appearance.  The  valance  must  be  cut  twice  the  actual 
length  which  it  is  to  be  when  finished, —  the  extra  length 
will  be  taken  up  in  the  plaits.  The  same  remark  applies  to 
the  base-valance,  which  should  in  all  cases  be  finished  with 
box-plaits.  Should  the  bed  furniture  be  of  tapestry,  or  any 
other  material  under  which  a  plain  buckran  can  be  placed, 
it  would  be  advisable  to  do  so,  but  a  straight  round  valance 
always  looks  well,  and  so  does  a  graduated  one,  increasing 
from  12  inches  in  the  center  to  18  inches  at  the  sides.  We 
append  sketches  of  half  a  dozen  different  valance  shapes, 
which  can  be  used  either  for  window  or  bed  draperies,  since 
they  can  be  lengthened  or  contracted  in  the  straight  parts, 
as  may  be  necessary.  The  measurements  indicated  will  be 
found,  if  followed,  to  yield  graceful  and  well-proportioned 
valances.  Instructions  for  setting  out  the  valances  will  be 
given  later  on. 

Persian  Beds. —  It  is  better  to  have  a  wood  frame  made 
for  these,  and  to  canvas  and  button  it  as  illustrated  by 
sketch  (Fig.  25).  The  stuffing  may  be  done  very  soft,  and 


FIG.  25. 


60  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

the  covering  should,  if  possible,  be  in  two  colors,  the  outside 
roll  or  buttoned  margin  in  one,  and  the  inside  in  another, 
using  a  bold  cord  to  cover  the  joint.  A  few  tapes  tacked  to 
the  wood  frame  will  be  sufficient  for  tying  it  firmly  to  the 
ironwork.  If  the  bed  be  of  dimity,  cretonne,  or  cotton 
material,  allow  1£  inches  for  fullness ;  if  of  rep  or  tapestry, 
If  inches ;  but  in  the  length  of  the  flutes  no  allowance  will 
be  required.  The  base-valances  are  cut,  as  before  directed, 
a  3-inch  box-plait  and  a  3-inch  space  alternating  with  each 
other.  Double  the  length  of  valance  material  will  be  required 
to  finish  to  the  proper  length. 

Window  Draperies. —  Cut  the  curtains  so  that  when  they 
are  finished  they  will  touch  the  floor,  allowing  about  3  inches 
additional.  Fix  the  hook  that  holds  the  curtain-band  or 
chain  about  4  feet  6  inches  from  the  floor;  and  when  the 
chain  has  pulled  the  curtains  to  their  proper  position  they 
will  about  touch  the  carpet.  At  the  present  time  valances 
are  mostly  cut  straight,  or  with  a  slight  break  in  the  line  to 
relieve  the  monotony.  The  depth  will  vary,  and  must  be 
governed  by  the  height  of  the  room:  they  range  from  14 
inches  to  27  inches.  Should  there  be  a  mass  of  wall-space 
above  the  top  of  the  window-frame,  as  is  often  the  case  in 
old  houses,  matters  may  be  greatly  improved  by  fixing  the 
cornice-lath  above  the  window  on  the  wall-space,  calculating 
to  cover  as  much  of  the  wall-space  as  the  depth  of  the  val- 
ance will  allow.  This  will  make  the  window  look  much 
higher.  Valances  for  bay-windows  have  a  good  effect  when 
cut  quite  straight.  If  the  room  be  moderately  high,  make 
the  valance  about  two  feet  deep,  and  if  tapestry  be  employed 
it  should  be  paneled  with  Utrecht  velvet  or  plush.  Each 
window  might  have  a  panel,  leaving  a  6-inch  margin  of 
tapestry  round  every  panel,  and  finishing  the  edges  of  the 
velvet  with  a  gimp.  The  base  of  the  curtains  should  also 
have  a  width  of  the  same  velvet  sewn  on  across,  and  about 


BED    DRAPERIES,  (51 

a  foot  from  the  ground.  The 

.  . .  _+_  _  .1:33  veivet  is  24  inches  wide,  and 

0  when  thus  applied  it  answers 

the  purpose  of  a  dado.  Care  must  be  taken  in  the 
selection  of  the  colors,  so  that  a  harmonious  effect 
will  be  produced. 

Curtain  Rods. —  These  are  made  of  one-inch  hard 
wood  or  brass.  The  former  are  usually  of  birch,  with 
brass  pulley-ends  fixed  at  either  extremity  of  the 
rods,  and  these  rods  are  fixed  with  drop-hooks  under 
the  cornice-lath.  To  fix  the  cord,  commence  by  tem- 
porarily tying  it  to  the  pulley  marked  A,  leaving  the 
cord  about  a  foot  too  long;  pull  the  rings  back  to 
the  two  ends,  as  shown  in  sketch  (Fig.  26).  Now  run 
the  cord  up  over  pulley-wheel,  B,  and  knot  to  ring,  C ; 
continue  to  pulley-wheel,  D,  passing  under  to  the  top, 
knot  the  cord  to  ring,  E;  continue  over  top  of  pulley- 
wheel,  F,  down  to  pulley,  A.  Then  tie  the  knot  to 
come  at  point  G;  and  in  that  position  it  will  not 
interfere  with  the  drawing  of  the  curtains.  For 
bay-windows  a  tramway  action  will  be  necessary,  on 
account  of  the  angles. 

Curtain-bands  can  be  made  of  same  material,  the 
edge  corded  or  laced;  average  run  about  18  inches 
long;  an  ordinary  curtain-ring  each  end,  the  top  end 
considerably  hollowed  from  the  middle,  shaped  to 

harmonize  with  the  valance. 
^z& 
**•          Cutting  Valances. — The  accompanying  illustrations 

2Q,  of  valances  (Figs.  27  to  36)  will  be  found  adapted  to 
represent  everyday  requirements,  and  they  are  easy  to  cut. 
One  half  of  the  sketches  show  the  patterns,  and  the  other 
half  the  measurements.  They  are  all  alike  suitable  for 
window  or  bed  draperies ;  and  having  cut  them  many  times, 


68  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

the  writer  knows  from  practical  experience  that  they  look 
well  when  completed. 

No.  27  valance  is  cut  16  inches  deep  from  A  to  B;  from 
C  to  D,  4  inches  across ;  from  E  to  E,  2  inches ;  from  E  to 
D,  1^  inches;  from  B  to  the  line  shown  at  E  E,  4  inches. 
Finish  with  a  small  cord  all  round  the  edge  of  the  pattern 
as  shown,  and  with  tassels  at  the  extreme  points. 

The  valance  shown  in  Fig.  28  is  hi  one  piece  of  buckram, 
the  measurements  being  as  follows: — A  to  C,  12  inches; 
A  to  A,  20  inches;  from  A  to  B,  24  inches;  plush  border, 
3  inches,  and  rounded  as  shown.  To  vary  this,  you  may 
have  a  straight  buckram  for  the  center,  same  as  shown,  and 
gather  or  plait  up  the  wings  separately.  In  this  case,  the 
depth  of  the  wings  would  be  the  same,  but  the  width  would 
necessarily  have  to  be  doubled  to  supply  the  fullness.  Should 
the  window  be  a  large  one,  the  depth  of  the  whole  should 
be  considerably  increased,  say  from  4  to  6  inches. 

In  Fig.  29  we  illustrate  a  valance  cut  18  inches  deep 
from  A  to  B;  the  distance  from  A  to  C  is  6  inches;  from 
C  to  F,  20  inches;  from  D  to  H,  each  way,  4  inches.  Cut 
off  the  corner,  which  will  be  at  45  degrees,  and  the  shape  as 
shown  will  be  obtained. 

No.  30  valance  is  quite  straight,  and  is  paneled  with 
velvet.  It  should  be  18  inches  deep.  The  velvet  panel  is 
10  inches  wide,  leaving  a  tapestry  margin  of  4  inches.  This 
pattern  is  very  suitable  for  a  bay-window.  If  thus  em- 
ployed, arrange  for  a  panel  of  velvet  for  each  window, 
showing  an  equal  margin  above,  below,  and  between  each 
panel. 

The  valance  No.  31  is  18  inches  deep  from  A  to  A;  from 
B  to  B  it  is  20  inches;  from  H  to  B,  3  inches;  and  from 
lines  C,  B,  D,  each  3  inches.  Strike  from  a  radius  of  3  inches 
for  both  the  curves  or  sweeps, 


BEl>    DHAl'KHIKS.  69 

Another  of  the  valances  shown  (Fig.  32)  is  12  inches 
.  A  to  A ;  from  A  to  B  and  from  B  to  C,  each  3  inches : 
from  H  to  H,  12  inches ;  and  from  C  to  F,  18  inches.  Strike 
from  an  18-inch  radius  for  the  sweeps.  The  downward 
curve  in  the  straight  part  will  have  its  center  at  a  point 
bisecting  the  top  line. 

Some  other  suggestions  are  shown  at  Figs.  33,  34,  35, 
and  36.  Fig.  33  would  form  a  novel  and  attractive  piece  of 
enrichment.  Its  disposition  affords  ample  scope  for  an 
effective  and  artistic  display  of  light  and  shade  in  drapery. 
The  central  valance  is  intended  to  represent  a  piece  of  figure 
tapestry,  cupid  gambols,  or  anything  of  a  suitable  character. 
This  should  be  framed  up  with  a  plush  border,  and  fringed 
at  the  lower  edge.  Upon  either  side  of  this,  festoon  drapery 
should  be  arranged  after  the  manner  indicated  in  the  illus- 
tration. The  character  of  the  woodwork  will  admit  of  the 
introduction  of  one  or  more  decorative  items,  such  as  a 
Japanese  fan,  tray,  or  plaque,  which  would  considerably 
enhance  the  general  effect.  The  lambrequin,  composed  of 
lozenge-shaped  panels  (Fig.  35)  should  be  treated  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner  to  that  above  described.  The  center  of  each 
lozenge  should  consist  of  a  piece  of  tapestry,  also  inclosed 
by  a  plush  border.  The  openings  which  occur  between  the 
panels  admit  of  the  visitor  observing  the  beauties  of  stained 
glass,  now  so  generally  employed  in  the  decoration  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  window-sashes.  Pelmets  frequently  quite 
prevent  the  beauties  of  such  enrichment  being  seen.  The 
two  remaining  draperies,  being  simple  in  character,  explain 
themselves.  Those  lambrequins  attached  by  studs  or  but- 
tons to  the  cornices  are  intended  to  be  detachable,  for  the 
sake  of  cleanliness  as  well  as  for  effect. 


74  PRACTICAL    CI'HOLSTKKY. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

BED-HANGINGS. 

'"T^HE  design  shown  in  Fig.  37  would  look  well  in  tapestry, 
^  or  in  any  nice  material  in  which  there  was  not  much 
stiffness.  Let  it  be  lined  with  a  suitable  color.  The  valance 
is  cut  in  two  pieces,  and  double  the  depth  required  to  finish. 
This  will  be  taken  up  in  the  reefing.  The  bottom  edge  in 
the  center  must  be  cut  5  or  G  inches  wider  than  the  top 
edge.  The  small  center-piece  is  separate,  cut  in  buckram, 
and  lined  in  the  shape  of  a  bell,  to  finish  about  3£  inches 
wide.  The  two  front  outside  corners  should  finish  about 
15  inches,  graduating  to  22  inches  on  the  back  edge,  not 
including  the  tassels.  These  latter  would  be  all  the  better 
loaded  with  lead,  which  will  keep  them  straight.  The  head 
and  tester  cloths  are  made  of  the  same  material  as  the  lining 
for  the  tapestry,  or  whatever  it  may  be,  plaited  up  on  the 
face  of  it,  as  the  sketch  shows ;  and  if  the  lining  be  a  good 
shade  and  harmonize  well  with  the  tapestry  a  very  pleasing 
effect  will  be  produced. 

Door  or  Window  Drapery. — The  drapery  shown  in  Fig.  38 
is  to  be  fixed  on  a  wood  lath.  Cut  the  actual  width  and 
depth  required,  simply  allowing  for  turnings.  A  narrow 
tape  should  be  stitched  on  the  back  of  this  at  an  angle  of 
45  degrees  with  half-inch  rings  sewn  on  at  equi-distances  of 
3  inches.  These  will  carry  a  cord  from  the  fringed  side  of 
the  curtain  to  a  pulley-wheel  placed  in  the  top  right-hand 
corner,  and  by  drawing  this  the  effect  shown  in  the  sketch 
will  be  obtained.  An  ordinary  curtain-holder  or  chain  com- 
pletes the  whole.  The  rosettes  in  each  corner  are  of  the 
same  material.  The  wing  or  tails  in  the  left  corner  would 


76  PRACTICAL    UPHOLKTKJiY. 

be  cut  about  20  inches  wide,  22  inches  deep  outside  edge. 
12  inches  on  the  inside.  A  straight  line  cut  across  and  then 
folded  up  will  give  the  shape  shown.  For  a  doorway  the 
wing  would  be  cut  much  smaller  than  for  a  window,  for 
which  latter  the  sizes  are  given. 


Mantel-board  and  Drapery.— To  carry  out  the  design 
illustrated  in  Fig.  39,  get  a  one-inch  pine-board  for  the  top 
of  the  length  required,  and  sufficiently  wide  to  admit  of  the 
rods  upon  which  the  curtains  are  to  run  being  fixed  thereto. 


77 

A  drapery  of  this  kind  would  look  well  in  velvet,  either  em- 
bossed or  plain.  The  board  is  covered  and  tacked  in  under, 
and  studded  on  the  chamfered  edge.  The  festoons  are  ci*t 


10  inches  wide  on  the  top  edge,  the  bottom  edge  being 
4  inches  wider  and  rounded ;  the  depth  is  12  inches.  Each 
one  is  made  separately,  and  fixed,  as  shown,  to  the  strip  of 


TS 


PRACTICAL 


wood  under  the  board,  as  is  also  the  lamorequin.  The  lam- 
brequiii  is  made  on  buckram,  according  to  this  size,  showing' 
half  section.  The  two  corner  festoons  are  cut  considerably 


daeper  than  the  others  and  returned  on  the  ends  straight, 
as  is  also  the  lambrequin.  The  above  remarks  apply  to  the 
mantel-board  shown  at  Fig.  40, 


MAXTFL    DXAPEPT. 


79 


Fi^s.  41  and  42  show  two  other  methods  of  draping  a 
mantel.  Fig.  41  looks  extremely  well  in  plush,  with  Persian 
trimmings  in  colors  to  suit.  Fig.  42  shows  a  very  elaborate 
mantel-draping  that  may  be  arranged  to  suit  the  color  of 
the  furniture,  paper,  or  other  decoration  in  the  room. 


Minor  Drapery. —  To  carry  out  the  design  shown  in 
Fig.  43,  the  festoons  are  cut  separate  from  the  side-wings 
and  heading-piece;  the  two  center-pieces  are  also  separate 
(covered  pieces  of  buckram).  The  wings  and  tails  are  cut 


PRACTICAL    UPKOLSTEET. 


according  to  instructions  previously  giveu  in  connection 
with  Fig.  38.  Tack  the  whole  to  a  strip  of  wood,  which 
should  be  screwed  to  the  top  of  the  glass  or  wall. 


Wicker-Chair  Cushions.—  For  this  design  (Fig.  44)  cut  a 
paper  pattern  of  the  exact  shape  of  seat  and  back,  aud  cut 


MIRROR    DRAPERY. 


81 


the  material  in  accordance  with  this  pattern,  simply  allowing 
for  turnings.  When  the  cushions  are  filled  and  buttoned 
they  will  fit  correctly. 


FIG.  43. 


By  using  a  fairly  good  wool,  a  good  cushion  can  be  made 
without  inside  cases,  and  will  answer  every  purpose.  Wicker 
chairs  can  be  greatly  improved  by  stuffing  the  back  and 


82 


rn.  i  <:  TIC  A  L  i  PHOL  s  TEH  T. 


sides  on  a  piece  of  buckram.  When  this  is  stuffed,  line  the 
back,  cord  the  top  edge,  and  fix  it  to  the  frame  with  a  few 
ties,  directly  under  the  plaited  wicker-work.  After  this  is 
done,  sew  the  fringe  on  so  as  to  form  a  perfectly  straight 
line,  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 


FIG.  44. 


BAltPET-PLANNIN*.  83 

CHAPTER    X. 
CARPET-PLANNING. 

r~pHERE  is  nothing  particularly  difficult  about  carpet- 
A  planning,  providing  the  measurements  are  carefully  and 
correctly  taken.  A  chalk-line  should  be  always  with  you  in 
carpet-planning  to  use  in  the  place  of  a  straight-edge,  and 
is  more  portable.  Supposing  the  plan  of  a  room  has  to  be 
taken.  Let  us  first  have  a  plan-book  not  less  than  a  foot 
square:  small  sheets  are  awkward  when  there  are  many 
measurements  to  be  taken.  A  3-foot  rule  is  the  most  con- 
venient for  the  purpose  of  measuring,  for  the  width  of  Kid- 
derminster and  Dutch  carpet  is  3  teet;  and,  moreover,  by 
folding  down  one  joint  of  the  3-foot  rule  we  get  a  measure- 
ment of  2  feet  3  inches,  the  exact  width  of  tapestry,  Brussels, 
Wilton,  and  Axminster  carpets.  So  that  with  a  3-foot  rule, 
which  always  folds  up  to  9  inches,  we  can  easily  and  quickly 
estimate  how  many  yards  of  carpet  will  be  required  by 
simply  multiplying  the  length  by  the  number  of  widths. 

Now  as  to  the  actual  method  of  measuring.  First  take 
the  square  block  of  the  room,  and  till  in  all  the  details  after- 
wards. Mark  this  down  distinctly  on  a  sheet  of  the  plan- 
book,  drawing  as  nearly  as  possible  a  miniature  sketch  or 
plan  of  the  room,  and  sufficiently  plain  that  it  may  be  easily 
understood  by  any  other  person.  It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind 
that  the  man  who  measures  and  sketches  the  room  does  not 
always  plan  and  cut  the  carpet,  hence  great  care  is  advisable 
in  giving  the  proper  figures.  It  is  necessary  to  take  cross- 
measurements,  that  is,  from  corner  to  corner,  with  a  view  to 
ascertain  whether  the  room  is  out  of  square  or  not :  there 
will  then  be  no  possibility  of  mistakes.  The  short  measure- 
ments in  a  plan  should  also  be  checked  by  adding  them 


84  PRACTICAL    t'FHOLSTERT. 

together:  if  they  correspond  with  the  loug  measurements, 
the  figures  are  correct.  There  is  nothing  like  making  sure 
that  the  plan  is  correct  before  leaving  the  house. 

To  cut  the  carpet,  first  lay  down  the  principal  measure- 
ments, or  square  block  of  the  plan,  on  the  cutting-floor  by 
means  of  a  chalk-line  ;  and  set  it  by  the  cross-measurements. 
Fill  in  all  the  other  measurements  afterwards.  If  these 
correspond  with  the  figures  entered  for  the  square  block, 
then  all  is  correct.  If  one  measurement  on  the  floor  is 
wrongly  made,  it  will  not  come  in  correct  at  the  finish; 
hence  the  absolute  necessity  of  adding  together  all  the 
small  measurements  of  each  side  of  the  room,  so  as  to  test 
them  with  the  long  measurements  before  leaving  the  house. 
These  additions  are  shown  on  the  sides  of  the  plan  illus- 
trated herewith  (Fig.  45). 

By  examination  of  this  illustration  it  will  be  seen  that 
line  C  D  is  longer  than  A  B  by  6  inches,  while  the  sides 
A  C  and  B  D  are  each  18  feet.  It  follows,  therefore,  that 
the  room  can  not  be  square  at  some  of  its  corners.  The 
diagonal  measurements,  23  ft.  5  in.  and  23  ft.  9  in.,  determine 
this  exactly.  The  larger  angle  is  obviously  one  opposite  the 
greater  diagonal,  namely,  A  B  D.  Also,  as  C  D  is  a  little 
longer  than  A  B,  it  is  likely  that  the  angle  opposite  B  C  is 
the  right-angled,  or  square,  corner.  In  planning,  this  is 
easily  found,  but  it  can  also  be  done  by  arithmetic.  It  is  a 
rule  in  geometry  that  in  a  right-angled  triangle  if  the  two 
short  sides  be  squared  and  added  together  they  will  equal  the 
square  of  the  long  sides.  In  our  example  we  have  two  sides, 
respectively  15  feet  and  18  feet,  and  a  diagonal  23  ft.  5  in. 
Squaring  these,  we  have  — 

18  feet.  15  feet. 

18  feet.  15  feet. 


18  15 

324  feet.  225  feet. 


--•  '6'  6" 

FIG.  45. 


80  PRACTICAL  UPHOLSTERY. 

By  cross-multiplication, — 

•23  5     0 

23  5     0 


991 
538     7 

feet,  548    4     1 

Adding  324  feet 
to  225  feet 

gives  549  feet. 

This  is  so  near  the  548  feet  4  inches  found  by  squaring  the 
diagonal  as  to  show  that  the  measurement  of  23  feet  5  inches 
is  correct  within  a  very  small  fraction  of  an  inch,  the  angle 
BAG  being  square. 

On  the  same  principle  are  founded  the  two  following 
variations  of  the  above.  A  simple  method  of  finding  whether 
the  sides  of  a  room  are  square  with  each  other  is  to  measure 
along  one  side,  as  A  B,  12  feet;  and  12  feet  along  the  other 
side,  A  C.  The  diagonal,  as  B  C,  will  then  measure  17  feet 
within  a  very  minute  fraction  of  an  inch,  if  the  angle,  BAG, 
is  square.  As  a  5-foot  measuring-rod  is  a  very  common  size, 
it  may  be  still  more  easily  used  than  the  above,  by  measur- 
ing from  A  toward  B  3  feet,  and  from  A  toward  C  4  feet, 
marking  a  point  on  the  floor  against  the  skirting  in  eacli 
case.  The  distance  between  these  two  points  will  be  exactly 
5  feet,  if  the  room  be  square. 

Proceeding  in  a  similar  manner,  these  methods  may  be 
employed  in  setting  out  the  plan  on  the  cutting-floor. 

A  circular  window  is  also  shown  on  the  plan.  The  meas- 
urements are  here  taken  by  offsets.  In  the  present  example 
these  are  ten  in  number,  and  one  foot  apart,  because  the 
span  of  the  window-opening  is  ten  feet  across.  Mark  thes« 


CAR  PET-PL  ANNING.  87 

offsets  on  the  floor,  in  a  direct  line  with  the  straight  wall. 
Measure  the  exact  length  of  each  offset  and  mark  it  plainly 
in  the  book,  as  shown.  The  segment  can  then  be  easily  laid 
on  the  cutting-floor. 

When  cutting  bordered  carpets  the  border  should  first 
be  cut,  taking  care  to  have  a  good  miter  at  each  angle.  The 
body  is  next  filled  in. 

Seams  across  the  width  of  a  carpet,  called  "cross-joins," 
should  have  no  turnings ;  and  if  sewn  closely  will  stand  any 
strain  and  not  fray  out.  Joins  running  the  selvage  way,  or 
where  it  is  necessary  to  put  a  part  of  a  width,  should  be  cut 
about  one  inch  wider  than  required  to  finish,  and  frayed 
out,  and  can  then  be  sewn  as  if  it  were  a  selvage  edge.  Sew 
it  close,  and  it  will  stand  any  strain.  By  this  method  you 
have  an  equal  thickness,  and  prevent  the  joins  wearing 
before  the  other  parts.  Miters,  of  course,  you  are  bound 
to  turn  in. 

Felt  carpeting  is  rarely  planned  to  fit.  It  is,  as  a  rule, 
simply  sewn  together  so  as  to  be  large  enough  to  cover,  and 
it  is  then  turned  in  and  tacked  down  to  fit.  Felt  is  bad  to 
match.  If  it  is  puckered  in  when  matched  and  sewn,  strain 
it  out,  face  down,  as  square  as  possible  on  the  floor.  Then 
damp  the  wrinkles,  and,  with  the  application  of  a  hot  goose, 
it  will  shrink  to  any  required  shape.  All  carpets  should  be 
well  pressed  on  the  seams :  but  other  kinds  can  not  be 
shrunk  to  shape  by  damping  and  pressing  to  such  an  extent 
as  can  be  done  with  felt. 

Floorcloths,  kamptulicons,  and  linoleums  are  always 
fitted  at  the  house  with  a  good  sharp  knife.  It  is  well  to  be 
supplied  with  an  oil-stone,  as  the  edge  of  the  knife  is  soon 
gone  when  cutting  such  material.  In  cases  where  it  is  to 
be  bordered,  the  border  should  be  first  mitered  round  the 
room,  not  fixing  the  inside  edges.  Next  put  the  body  mate- 
rial squarely  into  its  place,  letting  it  pass  a  little  under  the 


g$  PRACTICAL    rt'JH.LsTKliy. 

border.  Mark  the  body-cloth  with  a  pencil  or  the  edge  of  a 
knife  by  the  inside  edge  of  the  border,  cut  it  off  just  as  it 
lies  on  the  floor,  pull  out  the  cuttings  from  under  the  border, 
and  the  edges  of  body  and  border  will  then  butt  together. 
If  this  is  done  carefully,  an  exact  fit  will  be  secured.  If  the 
floor  is  boarded,  a  few  gimp  pins  will  keep  the  floorcloth  in 
its  place;  but  if  it  be  of  stone  a  solution  should  be  used 
for  the  purpose  of  cementing  it  in  its  place,  which  can  be 
obtained  from  the  makers  of  linoleum,  or  good  stiff  flour 
paste  might  be  used.  Even  when  laying  kamptulicon  on 
board  floors  it  is  best  cemented,  as  that  prevents  it  stretch- 
ing and  lying  loosely. 


XG    OF  SHADES. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

CUTTING  OF   SHADES. 

THE  cutting  of  shades  may  be  easily  accomplished  by 
taking  the  length  or  drop  of  the  shade,  as  it  is  called, 
and  the  width  of  the  roller,  and  cutting  the  shade  12  inches 
longer  than  the  exact  drop.  This  additional  measurement 
will  be  taken  up  by  the  hem  on  the  bottom,  while  part  of  it 
will  be  necessary  with  a  view  to  allow  the  shade  to  go  once 
round  the  roller,  for  when  a  wooden  roller  is  shown  bare 
after  the  shade  is  drawn  down  it  is  an  eyesore.  It  is,  there- 
fore, well  to  have  plenty  of  length.  Allow  a  quarter  inch  of 
play  for  the  shade  at  each  end  of  the  shade-roller.  The 
hems  on  each  side  of  the  shade  must  be  raw-edged,  and  be 
1£  inches  wide.  Allow  a  half  inch  for  turning  in  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  shade,  then  fold  3£  inches  up  to  form  the 
slip  for  the  shade-lath.  It  is  necessary  that  a  shade  should 
run  true,  and  in  order  to  insure  this  it  must  be  cut  per- 
fectly square.  The  proper  way  to  go  about  it  is  as  follows  : 
Cut  the  linen  12  inches  longer  than  the  actual  drop  ;  fold 
the  material  lengthways  down  the  middle;  if  there  be  a 
stripe  in  the  blind,  let  the  fold  be  exactly  parallel  with  it. 
Measure  across  from  the  fold,  both  at  the  top  and  bottom  of 
the  shade,  the  half  width  required,  and  prick  it  through  the 
double  thickness  with  the  regulator;  also  mark  through  1£ 
inches  beyond;  this  is  to  set  off  the  two  side-hems.  Now 
mark  in  the  same  way  a  half  inch  from  the  bottom  ;  and  3£ 
inches  from  that  mark  up  the  shade  on  the  outside  edge. 
This  gives  the  turnings  and  hem  for  the  lath.  Also  mark  a 
half  inch  from  the  top  edge  to  give  the  line  to  fix  to  roller. 
Unfold  the  shade,  and  lay  it  flat  on  the  board;  place  the 
straight-edge  from  mark  to  mark,  and  press  a  line  with  the 
point  of  the  regulator  so  that  the  cutting-line  will  be  visible. 


$f\  /'//./ ryvr./y.  rrH<>i.sri-:i;\. 

It  wii  then  be  impossible  for  the  shade  to  be  otherwise 
than  square.  It  is  also  a  quicker  and  surer  method  than 
using  a  square.  In  the  illustration  (Fig.  45)  the  small 
crosses  (thus  x)  show  the  pricks  of  the  regulator,  and  it  is 
the  upholsterer's  work  to  fold  the  hems  in  their  proper  place 
from  these  pricked  marks.  Should  the  bottom  be  shaped, 
put  an  extra  slip  for  the  lath  just  above  the  shape-line  on 
the  room  side  of  the  shade.  The  neatest  way  to  fix  a  shade 
is  to  put  one  tack  at  each  end  of  the  roller,  to  wind  it  round 
once  till  it  meets,  crease  it  back,  and  sew  it  from  end  to  end. 
This  entirely  hides  the  roller  should  the  curtain  be  drawn 
completely  down,  and  will  never  tear  away. 

The  writer's  individual  opinion  is  that  in  the  case  of  the 
printed  shade  material  now  so  much  in  favor,  the  side  that 
is  printed  should  be  put  to  the  window.  When  the  light 
shines  through  it,  the  pattern  will  be  seen  very  distinctly  in 
the  room,  whereas  the  wrong  side  would  look  very  bad  from 
the  street. 

Festoon  Shades. —  A  festoon  shade,  such  as  is  shown  in 
Fig.  46,  should  be  fixed  on  a  piece  of  wood  3  inches  wide, 
on  which  the  pulley-wheels  work  in  a  manner  similar  to 
those  of  a  Venetian  blind,  but  no  check-action  is  required. 
Four  festoons  will  be  required  to  an  ordinary  window,  of 
say  10  inches  each,  with  a  '^-inch  margin  on  the  two  outside 
edges.  Cut  the  shade  twice  the  depth  to  which  it  is  to 
be  finished.  On  the  width  allow  4  inches  to  each  festoon; 
and  011  the  side-margin  sufficient  to  return  to  the  cord-line, 
which  will  thus  form  a  3-inch  hem  on  each  side,  finishing 
under  the  tape.  When  the  hems  are  made,  mark  the  festoons 
or  tape-lines,  and  gather  the  shade  up  to  the  depth  required, 
and  on  these  lines  sew  narrow  tapes  of  the  same  color  as 
the  shade ;  on  the  tapes  sew  small  brass  rings  about  3  inches 
apart.  To  weight  the  shade,  a  piece  of  f-inch  circular  bar- 
irou  ia  covered  with  the  same  material  and  sewn  to  each 


Of  SHADES.  91 

tape  at  the  bottom,  just  clear  of  the  shaping.  The  draw-cords 
are  tied  to  this  rod,  and  run  up  through  the  rings  to  the 
pulleys,  as  shown  in  the  illustration  (1  ig.  40).  The  material 


used  should  be  thin,  or  at  least  soft,  and  without  any  dress 
or  stiffness  whatever.  The  shade  is  tacked  to  the  top  of  the 
lath  before  being  sewed  up,  thus  hiding  the  tacks.  Put  the 
tapaa  t»  tha  window  in  fixing. 


r  TIC  A  L  rrnoLs  TEH  r. 


It   is  a  good   plan   to   have  a  book   ruled   for   taking 
measurements  of  shades,  something  after  this  style: — 


Name, 
Address, 
and  Date. 

Name 

of 
Room. 

No.             Material. 
of 
Blinds.             Color. 

Description 
of 
Roller. 

29—1—83 

A.  Bevtrand,  £ 

Library. 

Two.    iNo.5,  Printed 

Hartserne's 

No.  1  Pearl.  ) 

Bedroom. 

One.     Green  Union 

Spring. 

Width 
between 
Beads. 

Height 
between 
Beads. 

Space 
available 
for  Roller. 

How  to 
be  fixed. 

Sundries.  &c. 

3  ft.,  8  in. 

6ft.,  f>  in. 

4  ft.,  4  in. 

To  head 
lining. 

Straight,  with 
lace,  black 
acorns,  brass 
knot-holders. 

4  ft. 

5  ft...  6  in. 



Between 
beads. 

Cleat-hook, 
knot-holder,  and 

worsted  'tassel. 

By  adopting  this  plan  the  cost  of  shades  can  be  esti- 
mated, or  referred  to,  with  readiness. 


MISCELLANEOUS    HINTS.  ;>- 

CHAPTER    XII. 
MISCELLANEOUS    HINTS. 

I  THINK  the  foregoing  pretty  nearly  covers  the  whole 
ground  of  upholstery,  though  it  may  be  often  necessary 
to  apply  the  rules  and  designs  shown  to  many  other  pur- 
poses; and  I  give  in  this  chapter  a  few  designs  of  things 
and  situations  that  the  upholsterer  may  sometimes  be  called 
upon  to  deal  with. 


FIG.  47, 


Fig.  47  shows  a  method  of  draping  the  back  of  a  piano. 
It  is  quite  "  the  thing "  now  to  have  the  backs  of  upright 
pianos  facing  visitors,  and  this  fashion  renders  it  imperative 
to  have  the  backs  covered;  and  nothing  adds  so  much  to 
the  artistic  richness  of  the  instrument  as  a  harmonious 
draping  in  surahs  or  velours. 

Fig.  48  shows  another  style  of  draping,  which  in  most 
cases  would  be  very  appropriate. 


94  PRACTICAL    rriJOLSTEKT. 

Figs.  49,  50,  and  51  show  some  odd  treatment  of  French 
windows  that  open  on  a  covered  porch.  The  draping  on 
these  examples  is  extremely  artistic;  and  if  a  proper  com- 
bination of  colors  is  chosen  the  effect  is  very  pleasing.  As 
these  examples,  however,  are  only  given  as  suggestions,  the 
upholsterer  will  readily  see  that  the  drapery  may  be  changed 
to  an  infinite  variety  of  styles. 


FIG.  48. 

It  is  true  that  this  branch  of  the  art  has  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  special  artists  known  as  "decorators'1;  but  the  two 
departments  are  so  intimately  connected  as  to  be  inseparable. 

Figs.  52  and  53  show  the  methods  of  draping  a  window 
from  one  side  only.  This  style  is  very  effective  when  there 
are  two  windows  at  one  end  of  a  room,  and  the  hangings 
are  gathered  from  opposite  sides. 

Sometimes  the  advice  of  the  upholsterer  or  his  services 
are  required  in  matters  pertaining  to  general  draping,  such 
as  the  draping  of  halls,  alcoves,  niches,  and  recesses.  Much 
will  depend  on  the  taste  of  the  upholsterer,  and  on  the 


%  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

surroundings  of  the  part  to  be  draped;  arid  all  that  can  be 
done  here  to  help  him  out  is  simply  to  give  a  few  sugges- 
tions and  hints. 

Fig.  54  shows  how  some  halls  are  draped  when  narrow. 
Wide  halls  will  stand  more  hangings  than  narrow  ones, 
and  sometimes  the  amount  of  fabrics  used  in  the  latter  is 
enormous,  as  may  be  seen  at  Fig.  55,  which  is  taken  from 
an  actual  example. 

If  we  turn  to  the  pages  of  any  of  the  furniture  designers' 
works  of  the  last  century  and  the  first  half  of  the  present 
century,  we  find  descriptions  of  bed-hangings  fearfully  and 
wonderfully  contrived, —  ugly  according  to  present  taste, 
though  probably  presenting  features  'of  beauty  to  those 
who  made  and  used  them.  Apart  altogether  from  appear- 
ance, cumbersome  bed-hangings  can  not  be  approved  of; 
indeed,  some  would  go  the  length  of  saying  this  about  any 
hangings,  however  simple,  for  the  reason  that  they  are  un- 
healthy, by  impeding  free  ventilation  and  by  harboring  dust. 
This,  no  doubt,  is  a  valid  objection  to  the  old  four-poster, 
with  its  heavy  hangings  carefully  drawn  to  exclude  every 
breath  of  fresh  air  from  the  sleeper,  and  its  tester-cloth  to 
hold  the  dust  from  one  spring  cleaning  to  another;  but,  in 
moderation,  bed-hangings  such  as  are  now  generally  seen 
are  not  to  be  decried  indiscriminately.  Sometimes  they  may 
be  useful  in  warding  off  draughts ;  and  when  they  are  not 
required  for  this  purpose,  they  are  so  light  and  scanty  that 
they  can  not  be  considered  injurious.  Whether  they  look 
well  or  not  is  a  matter  of  opinion.  They  furnish  a  room,  so 
far  as  appearance  goes,  much  in  the  same  way  that  anti- 
macassars do,  as  well  as  being  useful  in  warding  off  draughts. 
It  is  not,  however,  so  much  to  the  hangings  as  to  the  uphol- 
stering of  bed-heads  that  attention  is  now  directed ;  for  the 
hangings— that  is,  the  curtains— being  principally  made  up 
by  women,  hardly  require  detailed  mention.  Of  course,  I 


FIG.  52. 


M  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

am  referring  solely  to  the  modern  form  of  bed  drapery, 
which  is  almost  entirely  confined  to  the  half-tester  style  of 
bedstead,  in  which,  beyond  tho  base-valance,  there  are  only 
curtains  at  the  head-end.  Even,  however,  in  these  bedsteads 
there  is  considerable  scope  for  display  of  taste  in  the  uphol- 
sterer ;  but  as  the  varieties  of  detail  may  almost  be  regarded 
as  endless,  it  is  hardly  possible  to  give  minute  instructions, 
and  these  must  be  confined  to  the  simplest,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  fortunately,  the  most  popular  style  of  hangings.  But, 
first,  let  us  see  what  kind  of  bedstead  is  required ;  and  here 
I  may  as  well  say  that  though  wooden  bedsteads  are  by  no 
means  things  of  the  past,  and  will  no  doubt  resume  their 
former  popularity,  it  is  still  so  comparatively  rarely  they  are 
made  now  that  remarks  will  be  directed  to  metallic — brass 
or  iron — bedsteads.  Of  these,  one  variety — namely,  those 
with  head  and  foot  alike,  or  rather  with  the  head-end  a 
little  higher  than  the  foot-end — is  not  adapted  for  curtains 
beyond  those  from  the  frame  to  the  floor  at  the  sides  and 
foot.  These  curtains,  if  such  they  can  be  called,  are  known 
as  base-valances ;  and  as  the  only  part  of  their  construction 
that  can  be  considered  a  man's  work  consists  in  the  prep- 
aration of  the  laths  which  are  used  to  connect  them  with  the 
bedstead,  very  little  need  be  said  about  them,  as  among 
workers  probably  ideas  of  trimming  would  be  scouted  by 
the  female  amateur  who  will  undertake  the  necessai-y  sew- 
ing. A  man,  even  though  an  upholsterer,  is  hardly  com- 
petent, in  the  opinion  of  his  "better  half,"  to  direct  the 
arrangement  of  the  domestic  curtains,  though  he  may  design 
and  plan  for  others.  So  just  leave  such  little  matters  to 
be  settled  by  the  feminine  portion  of  the  household.  You 
might,  however,  just  hint  that  to  avoid  too  great  depth  on 
the  one  hand  or  scrimpiness  on  the  other,  the  valance  should 
be  cut  to  the  measurement  between  the  bottom  of  the  mat- 
tress— or,  what  is  the  same  thing,  the  top  of  the  frainq  on. 


FIG.  53. 


100  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

which  this  rests — and  the  floor;  and  that  for  fullness  for 
pleating,  about  four  breadths  of  ordinary  cretonne  width 
for  a  full-length  bedstead  is  a  very  good  standard.  I  name 
cretonne,  which,  as  was  stated  in  one  of  the  preliminary 
chapters,  is  about  31  inches  wide,  as  it  is  so  frequently  used 
for  the  purpose;  and  those  who  prefer  anything  else  can 
easily  calculate  the  number  of  widths  that  may  be  required, 
due  allowance  being  made  for  the  thickness  of  the  fabric 
and  its  consequent  adaptability  for  pleating.  Roughly 
speaking,  the  length  of  a  base-valance  may  be  about  half  as 
much  again  as  that  of  the  length  it  is  to  be  when  hung,  so 
that  in  a  5-foot  (wide)  bedstead  three  cretonne  widths  will 
lie  about  right.  The  base-laths  themselves  may  be  made  of 
pine,  a  quarter-inch  thick  and  two  inches  wide.  They  should 
be  as  long  as  the  side  and  foot  rails  on  which  they  rest, — 
one  of  them  on  each  rail.  Covering  these  laths  is  a  long 
bag  or  case,  made  of  the  same  material  as  the  valance,  or 
something  suitable.  The  strip  of  which  the  base-bag  is 
formed  may  be  some  five  inches  wide,  so  that  the  lath  may 
easily  be  inserted  in  the  bag,  to  which  the  valance  is  after- 
wards regulated  and  sewn.  The  palliasse  or  mattress  which 
is  used  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  base-lath  in  position  on 
the  rail ;  though,  should  it  not  do  so  properly,  a  few  tapes 
will  make  all  secure.  These,  however,  are  not  often  required, 
if  the  palliasse  is  of  sufficient  size.  So  much  for  base- valances, 
which,  it  will  be  understood,  are  fixed  in  much  the  same 
manner  to  any  kind  of  bedstead;  and  we  may  now  proceed 
to  consider  the  upholstery  of  head-ends,  with  a  few  hints  on 
the  curtains. 

Any  kind  of  bedstead  may  have  an  upholstered  head,  by 
which,  it  will  be  understood,  is  meant  a  head-end  with  an 
upholstered  panel ;  but  the  kind  to  which  this  adornment  is 
generally  applied  is  commonly  known  as  the  "Persian."  IE 
this  the  head-rails  are  much  higher  than  the  foot, —  as  high. 


FIG.  54. 


102  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

in  fact,  as  the  ordinary  half-tester,  with  which  it  might 
almost  be  confounded  by  the  casual  observer,  though  to 
others  the  differences  are  readily  discernible.  The  only  one 
to  which  attention  need  be  drawn  here,  as  it  is  sufficient  for 
all  practical  purposes  at  present,  is  that  in  the  Persian  head 
the  ends  run  straight  up,  and  do  not  support  any  over- 
hanging structure.  There  are,  however,  many  varieties  of 
both  these  and  other  kinds,  which  converge  so  closely  on 
each  other  that  a  slight  degree  of  hesitation  may  sometimes 
be  excusable ;  and,  after  all,  it  does  not  matter  much  what 
the  bedstead  may  be  called,  for  the  methods  of  upholstering 
them  are  much  the  same,  and  any  one  who  understands  how 
to  do  with  the  modern  "Persian"  will  have  little  difficulty 
in  making  whatever  adaptations  may  be  necessary  by  altered 
circumstances.  First  of  all,  a  wooden  frame  will  have  to 
be  made  to  fill  the  opening.  Now,  on  looking  at  an  iron 
Persian  bedstead,  as  usually  made,  two  thin  bands  of  iron, 
or  rods,  will  be  seen, —  one  of  them  a  few  inches  below  the 
ornamental  upper  rails,  and  the  other  a  foot  or  two  above 
the  lath-rails  or  bottom  of  the  bedstead.  Each  of  these 
bands  will  be  found  to  have  two  or  three  holes  in  it ;  and 
from  the  comparatively  rough  way  in  which  they  are  finished, 
it  will  be  at  once  and  correctly  surmised  that  they  are  for 
use  and  not  for  appearance.  The  bands  are  there  only  for 
the  purpose  of  fastening  the  above-mentioned  frame,  and 
the  holes  are  for  the  necessary  screws.  There  is,  therefore, 
no  difficulty  in  arriving  at  the  size  of  the  wooden  frame, 
which  ought  to  fit  loosely  in  width,  and  to  be  long  enough 
to  allow  it  to  be  screwed  to  the  stays  from  behind ;  for  I 
dare  say  it  is  understood  that  the  frame,  when  upholstered, 
is  fastened  on  the  front  of  the  head.  In  other  words,  it 
must  lie  within  the  uprights,  and  on  the  transverse  rails. 
Sometimes,  when  the  lower  one  of  these  is  at  a  considerable 
height  above  the  bottom  of  the  bed,  it  is  necessary  to  make 


104  PRACTICAL    VPHOLSTEEX. 

the  frame  some  inches  deeper,  in  order  that  there  may  not 
be  a  space  between  the  bedding  and  the  upholstery.  As  a 
rule,  however,  bedsteads  are  turned  out  by  the  manufacturer 
with  due  consideration  of  the  upholsterer's  needs,  and  it  will 
seldom  be  necessary  to  make  the  frame  more  than  six  inches 
lower  than  the  bottom  stay,  as  the  object  is  merely  to  pre- 
vent a  vacant  space  appearing  above  the  bolster  and  pillows. 
In  case  of  doubt,  it  is  better  to  have  the  framing  rather 
lower  than  absolutely  necessary  than  that  it  should  be  too 
short.  The  frame,  which  is  only  required  as  a  support  for 
the  upholstery,  is  a  very  simple  affair.  It  may  be  made  of 
half-inch  pine,  three  inches  or  so  wide,  mortised  and  tenoned, 
halved,  or  fastened  at  the  corners  in  any  other  way  that  may 
be  most  convenient.  It  will  also  be  well,  especially  in  the 
case  of  a  wide  bedstead,  to  further  strengthen  it  by  the 
addition  of  cross  and  upright  stays,  which  may  be  either 
mortised  or  halved  to  the  outer  framing,  the  former  joint 
being,  of  course,  the  better  of  the  two.  Extreme  neatness 
of  workmanship  is  not  required, —  sufficient  strength  to  bear 
any  strain  there  may  be  frpm  the  covering  being  the  prin- 
cipal thing  to  be  studied.  I  shall  merely  indicate  two 
arrangements  for  this,  neither  of  which  can  be  regarded  as 
novelties  in  themselves ;  and  perhaps,  on  that  account,  will 
be  more  generally  useful  to  the  upholsterer  than  more  com- 
plicated devices,  which,  if  he  wants,  he  will  no  doubt  be  able 
to  devise  for  himself.  In  fact,  as  I  have  already  hinted,  so 
much  depends  on  the  skill  and  taste  of  the. worker  that  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  give  hard  and  fast  lines  that  must  be 
adhered  to.  In  the  drapery  part  of  the  upholsterer's  craft 
this  is  specially  the  case,  for  a  slight  difference  in  a  fold,  or 
some  in  itself  comparatively  insignificant  detail,  may  make 
all  the  distinction  between  a  tasteful,  artistic  arrangement, 
and  the  reverse.  Material  has  something  to  do  with  effect ; 
but,  after  all,  the  chief  matter  is  the  arrangement,  and  on 


MISCELLANEOUS    HINTK.  105 

this  no  merely  written  instructions  can  convey  ideas  suitable 
for  every  instance.  Color,  again,  is  a  very  important  factor 
in  the  appearance  of  bed  or  any  other  furniture  drapery, 
for  no  hangings  can  look  well  unless  they  are  in  harmony 
with  the  predominant  coloring  of  the  room.  But  this  hint 
being  given,  it  must  take  care  of  itself,  for  any  lengthy  con- 
sideration of  coloring  would  occupy  far  too  much  space. 
Those  who  want  to  study  this  feature  thoroughly  can  not 
do  better  than  read  Chevreul's  "Laws  of  Contrast  of  Color," 
a  standard  work,  which  gives  many  valuable  suggestions  for 
interior  decorative  effects  depending  on  color. 

Perhaps  the  easiest,  and,  at  the  same  time,  one  of  the 
most  effective  styles  in  which  the  head  can  be  upholstered 
is  that  in  which  the  covering  is  pleated  to  the  center.  It 
looks  well  in  either  a  plain  or  figured  material.  In  the  latter 
care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  pattern  running  in  one  direc- 
tion, namely,  to  or  from  the  center  throughout.  It  will  not 
do  to  have  the  design  on  the  upper  part,  starting  as  it  were 
from  the  center,  and  on  the  bottom  part  from  the  lower 
edge.  This  applies,  of  course,  only  to  some  of  a  flowing  or 
floral  character,  for  in  designs  of  a  geometrical  kind  no 
attention  will  be  required  beyond,  if  the  pattern  is  very 
large  or  pronounced,  seeing  that  they  match  at  the  joins  of 
the  different  lengths.  To  ascertain  how  many  of  these  are 
wanted,  measure  the  width  of  the  covering  material,  and 
mark  this  off  at  intervals  on  the  edge  of  the  frame,  not 
including  the  angles, —  that  is,  the  measurements  will  ignore 
the  angle.  Perhaps  this  may  be  made  clearer  by  giving 
actual  measurements.  Let  us  suppose  that  the  size  of  the 
frame  is  4  feet  6  inches  by  5  feet,  and  the  width  of  the  mate- 
rial is  31  inches.  Start  from  any  point  at  the  edge  of  the 
frame,  say  the  left  top  corner,  and  measure  31  inches  along 
the  top,  then  take  the  same  distance  from  this  to  the  edge 
of  the  right-hand  side,  and  so  on  till  the  frame  has  been 


106  PRACTICAL    TJPHOLSTERT. 

gone  round.  The  number  of  lengths  required  will  thus  be 
eight,  seven  of  them  being  the  full  width  of  the  cretonne, 
31  inches,  or  whatever  the  covering  is,  and  the  other  a  mere 
strip  of  a  few  inches.  The  length  of  each  of  these  pieces 
must  be  equal  to  the  measurement  from  the  center  to  the 
furthest  portion  of  the  woodwork,  allowing  for  each  a  full- 
ness of  about  5  inches  or  6  inches.  I  should  say  here  that 
the  point  where  the  pleats  meet  need  not  be  the  actual 
center  of  the  frame,  as  the  object  should  be  to  get  it  about 
half  way  between  the  top  of  the  bedding  and  of  the  top  of 
the  panel.  The  remainder  are  measured  in  the  same  way, 
namely,  by  taking  sufficient  length  to  cover  the  woodwork 
to  the  extreme  length.  All  the  ends  which  are  to  be  in  the 
middle  must  now  be  pleated,  and  the  most  convenient  way 
to  do  so  is  to  thread  them  a  short  distance  from  the  edge 
on  a  piece  of  wire, —  ordinary  bell-wire  will  do  very  well, — 
and  then  bend  the  wire  into  a  ring,  as  small  as  the  thickness 
of  the  stuff  will  conveniently  allow,  say  about  2£  inches  in 
diameter  for  cretonne.  The  ends  of  the  wire,  which  should 
be  left  long  enough  for  the  purpose,  must  then  be  passed 
through  a  hole  bored  in  the  frame  at  the  center  and  tacked 
down  behind  securely.  The  covering  must  then  be  tacked 
down,  being  drawn  a  little  way  over  the  back  of  the  frame 
for  the  purpose.  It  then  only  remains  to  trim  off  the  super- 
fluous stuff  and  to  cover  the  center  with  a  rosette,  a  watch- 
pocket,  or  some  similar  contrivance  of  an  ornamental  char- 
acter. A  border  may  also  be  added  to  the  panel,  which,  if 
covered  as  directed,  will  have  the  pleats  very  pronounced  at 
the  center,  and  gradually  fading  into  a  level  surface  at  the 
edge. 

As  the  flatness  of  the  edge  is  merely  owing  to  the  widths 
of  the  stuff  being  cut  close,  it  follows  that  any  amount  of 
pleating  that  may  be  wanted  can  be  got  there  by  simply 
allowing  more  breadths  of  material.  As  a  rule,  it  is  better 


HIXTS.  107 

to  have  some  pleating  at  the  edges,  as  the  joins  of  the 
different  widths  can  be  concealed  throughout  their  entire 
length  within  the  folds.  Some  little  manipulation  will  be 
required  to  get  the  pleats  regular  and  of  equal  fullness,  for 
unless  this  is  attended  to  the  effect  will  be  unpleasant.  As  a 
guide  while  fixing,  it  will  be  well  to  mark  the  spaces  within 
which  each  piece  is  to  be  pleated  at  the  edge.  No  great 
amount  of  skill  is  required  in  fixing  this  kind  of  head,  but 
neatness  is  essential.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  "hour- 
glass head." 

Bed-curtains. —  There  is  nothing  difficult  in  the  making 
up  of  bed-curtains,  as  now  usually  seen  on  the  half-tester 
and  the  Persian  with  arms,  and  a  little  attention  to  a  few 
simple  details  will  enable  any  one  who  can  sew  to  make 
them  up  fairly.  Of  course,  there  is  scope  for  that  quality 
vaguely  termed  taste,  which  every  one  possesses  in  abun- 
dance, or  fancy  they  do,  so  that  nothing  more  need  be  said 
about  it.  The  materials  of  which  bed-curtains  are  most  fre- 
quently made  are  chintz  and  cretonne,  but  any  other  sub- 
stance may  be  used,  if  preferred.  It  is  as  well,  however, 
that  it  should  not  be  too  heavy;  and  there  can  be  little 
difference  of  opinion  that  the  two  just  named  are  the  most 
suitable.  In  an  earlier  chapter  reference  was  made  to  the 
reversible  cretonne,  which  being  printed  with  a  pattern 
showing  on  both  sides,  may  be  made  into  curtains  without 
requiring  any  lining.  Fabrics  printed  on  one  side  only  are 
generally,  though  not  invariably,  lined.  The  lining  is  a  thin 
self-colored  fabric  sold  for  the  purpose.  From  a  width  and 
a  half  to  two  widths  are  generally  used  for  a  curtain  which 
is  to  be  "headed"  up  to  be  about  20  inches  wide,  which  is 
about  the  average  of  the  Persian  arm-bedstead,  and  may  be 
taken  as  a  standard.  The  "heading"  consists  in  pleating 
the  top  end  of  the  curtain  to  bring  it  into  pleasing  folds 
when  hanging;,  without  the  awkward  bulging  which  would 


108  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

result  without;  though,  so  far  as  utility  is  concerned,  cur- 
tains which  have  no  fullness  are  quite  as  good.  Whether 
they  look  as  well  or  not  is  a  matter  of  opinion  only.  The 
workman  will  not  require  to  be  reminded  that  the  heading 
may  be  formed  of  either  plain  box,  double  box,  or  running 
pleat,  nor  will  he  require  instructions  how  to  stitch  them. 
The  front  and  bottom  edges  may  with  advantage  be  trimmed 
with  fringe  binding,  the  style  of  which  is  sufficiently  indi- 
cated by  its  name.  But  these  few  hints  will  probably  be 
sufficient  for  all  practical  purposes. 

Beds,  Pillows,  Bolsters,  Feathers,  &c. —  The  differences 
between  a  mattress  and  a  bed  having  now  been  stated,  it 
will  be  readily  understood  that  the  construction  of  the  latter 
is  a  very  simple  matter.  In  fact,  it  can  scarcely  be  said  that, 
beyond  sewing  the  case  and  filling  it  with  the  requisite  ma- 
terials, there  is  anything  to  be  done.  The  case  is  made  of 
tick,  which  should  be  of  good  substance,  to  prevent  the 
feathers — the  usual  filling — from  working  their  way  through 
it.  The  top  and  bottom  of  the  case  may  be  sewn  to  each 
other,  or  they  may  have  a  border  intervening,  similar  to 
mattresses,  the  edges  being  either  bound  or  welted,  as  may 
be  preferred.  There  is  an  idea  held  by  some  people  that 
cases  should  be  waxed  inside,  but  this  is  by  no  means  neces- 
sary nor  universal.  With  very  thin  loosely  woven  ticks  it 
may  be  an  advantage,  as  waxing  tends  to  prevent  feathers 
coming  through ;  but  if  the  ticking  is  good  it  is  not  required. 
Waxing  is  open  to  several  objections,  besides  the  obvious 
one  that,  if  not  necessary,  it  involves  a  useless  expenditure 
of  time  and  labor.  However,  as  some  may  think  the  bed  is 
not  complete  unless  the  case  is  waxed,  it  may  be  stated  that 
the  operation  is  a  very  simple  one.  A  lump  of  beeswax,  the 
ordinary  yellow  kind  generally,  is  rubbed  all  over  the  inside 
of  the  case,  so  that  a  little  adheres, —  in  my  opinion,  the  less 
the  better,  for  it  forms  an  admirable  holdfast  for  dust. 


MISCELLANEOUS    HINTS.  109 

Soap  may  be  used  in  the  same  way,  instead  of  wax,  if  pre- 
ferred. Bolsters  and  pillows  are  made  in  much  the  same 
way, —  the  former  being  round  bags,  with  pieces  shaped 
accordingly  to  form  the  ends;  the  latter  flat,  the  top  and 
bottom  being  sewn  together  without  any  border.  In  ad- 
dition, there  is  the  wedge-shaped  variety;  but  it  is  so  little 
used  in  this  country  that  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  take  it 
into  consideration. 

Feather  beds  are  often  denounced  as  unhealthy,  and, 
though  some  may  be,  they  should  not  all  be  considered  so. 
A  great  deal  depends  upon  the  way  the  feathers  have  been 
purified  and  cleansed,  for  unless  this  has  been  thoroughly 
done  beds  made  of  them  can  not  be  wholesome.  Feathers, 
to  be  fit  for  bedding  purposes,  must  be  effectually  cleansed 
and  prepared,  not  only  by  the  removal  of  dust  and  loose 
dirt,  but  by  the  destruction  of  the  animal  matter  contained 
inside  the  quills.  This  can  not  be  done  by  the  old-fashioned 
rustic  plan  of  hanging  them  in  a  bag  and  beating  them 
occasionally,  though  now  and  again  the  method  is  advocated 
as  being  sufficient  for  amateur  purposes.  All  that  can  be 
said  of  it  is  that  it  is,  perhaps,  better  than  nothing.  I  men- 
tion this  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  prefer  using  feathers 
from  their  own  fowls  and  poultry,  for  others  will  find  it 
better  to  buy  the  feathers  ready  dressed.  Perhaps  here  I 
may  give  a  hint  worth  attention  by  those  who  keep  poultry, 
namely,  that  feathers  are  a  marketable  commodity,  and  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  disposing  of  them  in  almost  any  city  to 
purifiers  of  feathers  for  bedding  purposes.  This  source  of 
profit  from  the  fowl-run  seems  to  be  commonly  overlooked 
in  this  country.  The  smaller  feathers  only  should  be  kept ; 
and  where  there  are  a  sufficient  number  of  birds  to  make  it 
worth  while,  the  different  kinds  should  be  kept  separately. 
Of  course,  I  do  not  refer  to  "moulted"  feathers,  for  the 
trouble  of  collecting  these  would  not  be  compensated  for 


HO  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

by  their  value,  but  to  those  plucked  from  the  bird  when 
killed,  and  consequently  comparatively  clean.  The  sorts 
chiefly  useful  for  home  cleaning  and  consumption  are  or- 
dinary poultry  and  goose  feathers,  the  latter  being  far  the 
more  valuable  of  the  two.  Duck  feathers  are  only  per- 
missible in  small  proportions,  and  game  feathers  not  at  all. 
It  may  be  well  here  to  note  that  white  feathers  are  worth 
more  money  than  gray  or  darker  colors,  though  for  all 
practical  purposes  one  is  as  good  as  the  other,  the  only 
difference  being  in  appearance.  Between  poultry  and  goose 
feathers  there  is,  however,  a  great  difference  in  elasticity  and 
filling  qualities,  goose  being  by  far  the  best.  This  renders 
them  more  costly, —  say  about  double  the  value  of  poultry 
feathers.  I  mention  these  facts  for  the  benefit  of  those 
readers  who  may  have  a  sufficient  quantity  of  poultry  and 
geese  to  justify  them  in  saving  the  feathers.  Indeed,  it  is 
principally  for  such  that  the  remarks  in  this  chapter  are 
intended. 

Poultry  and  goose  feathers  may  be  mixed  together,  and, 
if  desired,  in  order  to  increase  the  quantity,  though  at  a 
slight  deterioration  in  quality,  the  large  feathers  may  also 
be  saved.  The  feather  portion  of  these  can  easily  be  de- 
tached from  the  quill  or  stalk,  which  is  useless  in  beds,  for 
very  obvious  reasons.  To  render  the  large  feathers  usable, 
it  is  only  necessary  to  pull  them  from  the  stalk,  commencing 
at  the  outer  end,  when  the  soft  portion  will  come  away  in 
strips. 

Now,  it  would  be  very  little  use  giving  directions  about 
"home-grown"  feathers,  unless  something  was  said  about 
cleaning  them.  This,  as  done  on  an  extensive  scale,  could 
be  managed  by  the  amateur  purifier,  and  I  can  do  little 
more  than  suggest  to  him  the  method  he  should  pursue. 
Those  whose  business  it  is  to  prepare  feathers  for  bedding 
puiposes,  havs  costly  (jpntxiyances  fpr  washing,  drying,  &c., 


MISCELLANEOUS    HINTS.  HI 

steam  and  hot  air  entering  largely  into  the  process.  Such 
appliances  naturally  are  beyond  the  reach  of  the  workman, 
who  must  content  himself  with  simpler  plans ;  but  with  care 
they  need  be  little,  if  at  all,  less  efficacious.  Any  one  who 
has  had  experience  in  manipulating  a  large  quantity  of  loose 
feathers  will  know  that  though  they  may  be  clean  things, 
they  are  apt  to  be  productive  of  untidiness ;  therefore,  when 
working  with  them,  it  will  be  as  well  to  have  as  little  else  in 
the  room  as  possible. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  thoroughly  wash  the 
feathers,  to  get  rid  of  external  dirt,  the  amount  of  which, 
even  on  the  cleanest  feathers,  is  very  considerable.  Possibly 
the  idea  that  feathers  may  be  washed  is  a  new  one  to  some, 
who  when  they  see  them  saturated  with  water,  and  appar- 
ently spoiled  beyond  redemption,  may  be  inclined  to  think 
some  mistake  has  been  made.  When  thoroughly  wet  they 
don't  look  nice,  certainly;  but  never  mind,  they  will  be  all 
right  when  dried,  so  don't  spare  the  water.  Keep  changing 
this  till  it  is  no  longer  discolored  by  dirt ;  and  if  there  is 
any  contrivance  handy,  such  as  a  washing-machine  of  the 
ordinary  kind,  or  a  dolly-tub,  it  will  be  just  the  thing.  If 
any  arrangement  can  be  made  by  which  a  constant  stream 
of  water  can  be  running  through  while  the  feathers  are 
being  stirred  about,  so  much  the  better,  as  the  washing  will 
be  expedited.  I  do  not  advise  that  any  large  quantity 
should  be  done  at  once,  for  feathers  when  wet  are  heavy 
and  apt  to  clog. 

When  all  dirt  is  removed, —  that  is,  when  the  water  runs 
away  clean, —  in  the  absence  of  steam  the  feathers  should  be 
washed  further  in  warm  water,  in  which  a  small  quantity  of 
chloride  of  lime  has  been  dissolved.  Some  other  disinfect- 
ants would  do  as  well ;  but  this  being  cheap  and  generally 
obtainable,  besides  being  one  of  the  best  for  the  purpose, 
will  be  the  mpst  convenient,  The  feathers  should  be  well 


112  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

gtirred  in  this,  that  it  may  saturate  them  all,  and  left  in  it 
for  some  time,  say  till  the  water  is  cold.  They  should  next 
be  washed  in  water  alone  to  remove  the  chloride  till  no 
smell  remains. 

Drying  the  feathers  will  probably  be  the  most  tedious 
part  of  the  undertaking,  for  they  hold  a  great  deal  of  water, 
and  must  be  thoroughly  dried  before  they  can  be  slept  on. 
When  dried  on  a  large  scale,  the  best  contrivance  I  have 
seen  for  wringing  them  is  a  kind  of  large  sieve  or  drum,  in 
which  the  feathers  are  put.  This  drum  revolves  at  a  high 
rate  of  speed,  and,  being  perforated,  the  water  is  expelled 
by  centrifugal  action.  Such  a  piece  of  apparatus  is,  how- 
ever, costly;  and  I  only  mention  it  by  way  of  a  hint  for  the 
amateur  feather-dresser  to  adapt  to  anything  he  may  have 
that  seems  suitable.  When  the  feathers  have  been  dried  as 
much  as  possible  by  this  means,  they  are  still  quite  wet,  the 
water  they  have  absorbed  still  remaining,  they  are  further 
dried  by  hot  air.  It  may  be  suggested  that  in  the  absence 
of  special  appliances,  the  wet  feathers  should  be  loosely 
spread  on  a  net  raised  above  the  floor,  and  exposed  as  much 
as  possible  to  sun  and  warmth.  This  will  take  longer,  of 
course,  than  the  regular  plan;  but  there  is  no  reason,  if 
space  be  available,  why  it  should  not  be  adopted.  The 
feathers,  if  moved  about  now  and  then,  will  dry  by  them- 
selves, and  the  final  airing  may  be  given  by  putting  them  in 
bags  of  convenient  size  in  a  hot  room,  or  before  the  fire. 
Whatever  they  are  put  in  to  dry,  remember  that  feathers 
when  wet  do  not  occupy  anything  like  the  space  they 
do  when  dry,  and  that  they  should  have  plenty  of  room 
to  expand,  as  the  drying  process  proceeds.  If  they  are 
pressed  down  too  much  in  drying,  their  elasticity  will  be 
diminished;  and  it  is  on  this  quality,  perhaps,  more  than 
any  other  that  their  suitableness  as  a  filling  material  chiefly 
depends.  If  spread  thinly  when  wet,  and  allowed  to  dry 


MISCELLANEOUS    HINTS.  US 

spontaneously,  an  occasional  stirring  being  given  them,  their 
elasticity  will  take  care  of  itself,  but  if  dried  in  bags,  this 
must  be  provided  for.  It  will  not  do  to  leave  the  feathers 
too  long  in  a  sodden  state,  nor  need  any  fear  be  entertained 
of  breaking  them,  and  so  injuring  them  by  handling  them, 
as  when  wet  they  will  stand  any  amount  of  rough  usage. 
I  am"  hardly  prepared  to  say  that  the  excess  of  moisture 
might  be  squeezed  out  of  them  by  an  ordinary  wringing- 
machine,  but  I  do  not  think  it  would  do  much  harm.  I 
should  prefer  to  risk  this  rather  than  leave  them  wet  for 
any  extended  time,  as  if  left  long  enough  they  would  be 
sure  to  rot;  but  I  dare  say  means  of  drying  will  readily 
occur  to  the  cleaner,  according  to  the  things  he  may  have 
accessible.  Of  one  thing  I  would  caution  the  feather-dresser, 
namely,  not  to  use  any  bed  till  the  feathers  are  thoroughly 
dry.  He  can  not  be  too  particular  about  this,  and  I  empha- 
size the  necessity,  as  unless  he  is  accustomed  to  handling 
feathers,  he  may  think  them  dry  long  before  they  really  are. 
The  process,  as  described,  may  seem  troublesome,  and  it 
doubtless  is  so,  but  nothing  less  will  suffice  to  make  feathers 
fit  for  bedding.  Properly  purified  feathers  should  be  per- 
fectly odorless,  not  only  when  cold,  but  when  warmed  by 
the  occupier  of  the  bed.  It  sometimes  happens  that  nothing 
unpleasant  is  noticed  at  first  on  going  to  bed,  but  that  in  a 
short  time  a  faint  musty  odor  makes  itself  perceptible,  as 
the  bed  or  pillow  gets  warmed  by  the  heat  of  the  body. 
This  betokens  that  the  feathers  are  not  properly  purified. 
Whether  such  are  prejudicial  to  health  I  do  not  pretend  to 
have  had  any  special  opportunity  of  observing,  but  few  will 
have  any  doubt  on  the  point.  When  properly  dressed,  how- 
ever, I  have  little  hesitation  in  saying  that  feather  beds  are 
as  wholesome  as  they  are  luxurious.  Anyway,  the  present 
is  not  the  occasion  to  discuss  at  length  the  healthiness 
or  the  reverse  of  feather  bedding,  and  this  chapter  may  be 


114  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

concluded  by  giving  some  idea  of  the  quantity  of  feathers 
required  in  ordinary  feather  beds,  bolsters,  and  pillows, 
that  they  may  be  sufficiently  full  and  yet  not  too  hard. 
Something  will  depend  on  the  elasticity  of  the  feathers, 
but  the  quantities  here  given  may  be  taken  as  an  average 
approximate  for  good  comfortable  bedding.  In  beds,  about 
8  Ibs.  per  foot  in  width  will  be  sufficient,  taking  the  length 
as  for  an  ordinary  full«sized  bedstead.  Thus,  all  that  it  is 
necessary  to  do  to  ascertain  the  weight  required  for  any 
given  width  of  bed  is  to  multiply  the  width  by  8,  which 
•will  give  the  weight  in  pounds.  For  example,  a  5-foot  (wide) 
bed  will,  according  to  this  scale,  give  40  Ibs.  as  the  weight 
for  the  feathers.  Bolsters  should  have  about  1£  Ibs.  per 
foot  of  length;  pillows  about  2£  Ibs.  each. 

Beds,  pillows,  and  bolsters  are  occasionally  filled  with 
other  substances  besides  feathers;  but  as  their  construction 
is  much  the  same,  those  who  wish  to  do  so  will  have  no 
difficulty  in  making  them.  Perhaps,  in  connection  with 
feather  beds,  I  ought  to  refer  to  down  quilts,  now  so  much 
used  in  place  of  heavier  bed-clothing.  The  stuffing  in  them, 
though  popularly  known  as  eider-down,  is  really  goose- 
down.  It  may  be  separated  from  the  feathers  by  fanning 
these  gently,  when,  by  reason  of  its  superior  lightness,  it  is 
blown  on  one  side.  It  is,  however,  unpleasant  fluffy  stuff  to 
work  with ;  and  as  nearly  the  whole  of  the  making  of  down 
quilts  is  sewing,  it  will  not  commend  itself  to  workmen. 
Still,  there  may  be  some  who  wish  to  know  how  to  make 
these  quilts,  and  brief  instructions  may  accordingly  be  given. 
The  dowrn  is  put  in  a  cover  of  some  suitable  material,  such 
as  satteen,  silk,  &c.,  spread  evenly,  and  is  then  sewn  by 
"quilting"  through. 

Carpet-planning. — In  a  former  chapter  allusion  was  made 
to  carpet-planning.  A  few  more  hints,  however,  may  rea- 
sonably be  given  on  carpet-planning,  cutting,  and  making. 


MISCELLANEOUS    HINTS.  115 

As  is  well  known,  it  is  not  considered  necessary  nowadays 
for  a  carpet  to  fit  all  over  a  floor,  the  so-called  "art-squares," 
woven  in  one  piece,  being  preferred  by  many  for  both 
economical  and  sanitary  reasons.  They  are  made  in  various 
sizes,  and  the  only  thing  that  need  be  said  is  that  about 
18  inches  is  a  fair  width  of  flooring  to  allow  as  a  margin. 
Thus,  for  a  room  measuring  say  15  feet  by  12  feet,  the  square 
should  be  about  12  feet  by  9  feet.  Of  course,  these  meas- 
urements are  only  approximate,  as  the  "square"  carpets  are 
generally  obtainable  only  in  certain  stock  sizes.  Occasionally 
the  squares  are  made  up  from  ordinary  widths  of  carpeting, 
such  as  Brussels,  Kidders,  &c.,  when  they  can  be  worked  to 
any  dimensions  desired.  The  measuring  for  square  or  center 
carpets  is  a  very  simple  matter ;  but  when  it  comes  to  mak- 
ing a  carpet  to  fit  close  or  all  over  a  floor,  much  care  is 
required,  and  it  is  rarely  that  the  owner  succeeds  in  giving 
such  measurements  as  will  enable  a  carpet-planner  to  cut 
to  an  exact  fit.  I  know  from  experience  that  the  amateur 
measurer  can  seldom  be  convinced  that  the  fault  lies  with 
him  instead  of  the  carpet-planner.  I  trust  that  those  who 
may  find  that  the  carpets  made  to  these  measurements,  but 
which  on  being  laid  do  not  fit,  will  excuse  me  telling  them 
that  the  cause  lies  with  themselves  in  almost  every  instance, 
and  that  the  carpet-cutter  is  rarely  to  blame.  I  would  like 
to  write  a  lot  on  carpet-planning,  for  it  would  save  carpet- 
dealers  much  annoyance.  Yes,  I  speak  feelingly  of  that 
which  I  do  know;  but  at  present  I  must  content  myself 
with  saying  that  any  one  who  measures  for  carpets  must 
observe  the  utmost  nicety  in  measuring.  First  of  all,  draw 
a  plan  of  the  room ;  measure  each  space  not  merely  along 
the  walls,  but  from  angle  to  angle,  not  omitting  the  smallest 
projection  or  recess.  This  plan  is  afterwards  drawn  out 
full  size  in  the  carpet-planning  room,  and  the  carpet  cut  to 
it.  The  edges,  where  necessary  to  prevent  fraying,  should 


116  PRACTICAL    UPHOLSTERY. 

be  turned  under  and  "herring-boned,"  except,  perhaps,  at 
doorways  and  under  fenders,  when  it  is  better  to  finish  them 
with  carpet-binding  made  for  the  purpose.  Laying  is  a 
somewhat  laborious  process,  especially  when  the  carpet  is 
new,  as  it  must  be  tightly  stretched  before  tacking  down. 
I  do  not  recommend  the  old-fashioned  plan  of  fixing  by 
rings,  for,  though  some  prefer  it,  it  is  generally  better  to 
tack  down. 

Stair-carpets  should  be  cut  full  length,  so  as  to  allow 
the  position  to  be  changed  whenever  signs  of  wear  are  per- 
ceptible on  the  edges  of  the  treads.  As  stair-carpets 
always  wear  out  first  at  these  places,  those  who  have  regard 
for  economy  will  do  well  to  change  the  lay  of  the  carpet 
frequently,  and  for  this  purpose  it  is  necessary  to  allow  a 
good  surplus.  In  measuring  for  stair-carpets,  all  that  is 
required  is  to  measure  the  height  and  the  tread  of  the  step, 
add  the  dimensions  together,  and  multiply  by  the  number 
of  steps. 

Measuring  for  floor-cloths,  whether  oilcloth  or  linoleum, 
is  very  similar ;  but  the  actual  cutting  may  be  done  while 
laying.  Floor-cloth  should  be  tacked  down,  but  linoleum 
is  frequently  cemented,  especially  to  stone  floors.  A  special 
cement  is  made  and  sold  for  the  purpose ;  but  a  very  good 
one,  preferred  by  some  to  the  orthodox  preparation,  maj 
be  found  in  a  mixture  of  ordinary  flour  paste,  glue,  anc 
resin. 


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THE     STEEL    SQUARE    AND    ITS    USES By  FRED.  T. 

HODGSON. —  Third  and  Enlarged   Edition.     Illustrated  by  nearly  one 
hundred  large  and  clear  engravings.    Cloth,  gilt $1.00 

This  is  the  only  really  practical  work  on  the  steel  square  and  its  uses 
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Confounding  terms  and  scientific  phrases  have  been  religiously  avoided 
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This  new  edition,  just  issued,  is  illustrated  with  nearly  one  hundred 
handsome  engravings,  showing  how  the  square  may  be  used  for  solving 
almost  every  problem  in  the  whole  art  of  carpentry.  The  carpenter 
who  possesses  this  book  need  not  waste  time  and  material  "cutting  and 
trying."  He  can  lay  out  his  work  to  a  hair's  breadth,  and  "cut  to  the 
line." 

STEEL  SQUARES  AND  THEIR  USES — Being  a  description 
of  the  various  steel  squares  and  their  uses  in  solving  a  large  number  of 
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PEED.  T.  HODGSON,  editor  of  "The  Builder  and  Woodworker." — Finely 
illustrated.  Cloth $1.00 

This  forms  Part  II  of  "The  Steel  Square  and  Its  Uses."  It  gives  new 
problems,  new  methods,  and  new  wrinkles  for  shortening  work. 

,*»  With  these  two  volumes  in  his  possession  the  workman  has  at 
command  the  entire  practical  mathematics  of  construction,  and  is  pre- 
pared to  lay  out  any  piece  of  work  more  easily,  quickly,  and  accurately 
than  ft  can  be  done  by  any  otJier  method. 


CATALOGUE    OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

PRACTICAL  CARPENTRY.  — Being  a  guide  to  the  correct 
•working  and  laying  out  of  all  kinds  of  carpenters' and  joiners' work. 
With  the  solutions  of  the  various  problems  iu  hip-roofs,  gothic  work, 
centering,  splayed  work,  joints  and  joining,  hingeing,  dovetailing, 
mitering,  timber-splicing,  hopper-work,  skylights,  raking  moldings, 
circular  work,  &c.  To  which  is  prefixed  a  thorough  treatise  on  "Car- 
penters' Geometry." — Illustrated  by  over  three  hundred  engravings. — 
By  FBED.  T.  HODGSON,  author  of  "The  Steel  Square  and  Its  Uses," 
"The  Builders' Guide,  and  Estimators' Price-Book,"  "The  Slide-Rule, 
and  How  to  Use  It,"  &c.— Cloth,  gilt $1.00 

This  is  the  most  complete  book  of  the  kind  ever  published.  It  is 
thorough,  practical,  and  reliable;  and  at  the  same  time  is  written  in  a 
style  so  plain  that  any  workman  or  apprentice  can  easily  understand  it. 

STAIRBUILDING  MADE  EASY.— Being  a  Full  and  Clear 
Description  of  the  Art  of  Building  the  Bodies,  Carriages,  and  Cases  for 
«11  kinds  of  Stairs  and  Steps.  Together  with  Illustrations  showing  the 
Manner  of  Laying  Out  Stairs,  Forming  Treads  and  Risers,  Building 
Cylinders,  Preparing  Strings;  with  Instructions  for  Making  Carriages 
for  Common,  Platform,  Dog-legged,  and  Winding  Stairs.  To  which  is 
*dd»d  an  Illustrated  Glossary  of  Terms  used  in  Stairbuilding ;  anc1 
Designs  for  Newels,  Balusters.  Brackets,  Stair-moldings,  and  Section 
of  Hand-rails. —  By  FEED.  T.  HODGSON,  author  of  "The  Steel  Squar 
and  Its  Uses,"  "The  Builders'  Guide,  and  Estimators'  Price-Book.' 
•  -The  Slide-Rule,  and  How  to  Use  It."  &c.—  Cloth,  gilt $1.0f 

This  work  takes  hold  at  the  very  beginning  of  the  subject,  and  carries 
the  student  along  by  easy  stages  until  the  entire  subject  of  Stairbuilding 
flas  been  unfolded, 'so  far  as  ordinary  practice  can  ever  require.  This 
book,  and  the  following  one  on  "Hand-Railing."  cover  nearly  the  whole 
subject  of  Stairbuilding. 

A  NEW    SYSTEM    OF    HAND-RAILING;    or.    How  to  Cut 

Hand-Railing  for  Circular  and  other  Stairs,  square  from  the  plank 
•without  the  aid  of  a  falling  mold.— By  AN  OLD  STAIRBOLDEK.- 
Edited-and  corrected  by  FRED.  T.  HODGSON.— Cloth,  gilt,  .  .  $1.00 

The  system  is  new.  novel,  economic,  and  easily  learned.  Rules, 
instructions,  and  working  drawings  for  building  rails  for  seven  different 
kinds  of  stairs  are  given. 

HINTS  AND  AIDS  TO  BUILDERS.— Hints  and  Aids  m 
Building  and  Estimating  gives  hints,  prices,  tells  how  to  measure,  ex- 
plains building  terms,  and,  in  short,  contains  a  fund  of  information  for 
all  who  are  interested  in  building.— Paper.  ..... 


CATALOGUE   OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

THE  BUILDERS'  GUIDE,  AND  ESTIMATOR'S  PRICE- 
BOOK. —  Being  a  compilation  of  current  prices  of  lumber,  hardware, 
glass,  plumbers'  supplies,  paints,  slates,  stones,  limes,  cements,  bricks, 
tin,  and  other  building  materials.  Also,  prices  of  labor,  and  cost  of 
performing  the  several  kinds  of  work  required  in  building.  Together 
with  prices  of  doors,  frames,  sashes,  stairs,  moldings,  newels,  and  other 
machine-work.  To  which  is  appended  a  large  number  of  building  rules, 
data,  tables,  and  useful  memoranda :  with  a  glossary  of  architectural 
and  building  terms.— By  FRED.  T.  HODGSON,  editor  of  "The  Builder 
and  Woodworker,"  author  of  "The  Steel  Square  and  Its  Uses,"  &c. 
12mo,  cloth $2.00 

CARPENTERS'  AND  JOINERS'  POCKET   COMPANION. 

Containing  rules,  data,  and  directions  for  laying  out  work,  and  for 
calculating  and  estimating. —  Compiled  by  THOMAS  MOLONEY,  carpen- 
ter and  joiner. — Cloth.  . 50  cents. 

This  is  a  compact  and  handy  little  volume,  containing  the  most  useful 
rules  and  memoranda,  practically  tested  by  many  years'  experience  in 
the  shop,  factory,  and  building.  Also,  a  treatise  on  the  framing-square. 
It  is  by  a  thoroughly  practical  man.  and  contains  enough  that  is  not 
easily  found  anywhere  else  to  make  it  worth  more  than  its  price  to 
every  intelligent  carpenter. 

EASY  LESSONS ;  OR,  THE  STEPPING-STONE  TO  ARCH- 
ITECTURE.—  Conuisting  of  a  series  of  questions  and  answers  ex- 
plaining in  simple  language  the  principles  and  progress  of  architecture 
from  the  earliest  times. — By  THOMAS  MITCHELL. —  Illustrated  by  nearly 
one  hundred  and  fifty  engravings.— New  edition,  with  American  ad- 
ditions.—Cloth 50  cents. 

Architecture  is  not  only  a  profession  and  an  art,  but  an  important 
branch  of  every  liberal  education.  No  person  can  be  said  to  be  well 
educated  who  has  not  some  knowledge  of  its  general  principles  and  of 
the  characteristics  of  the  different  styles.  The  present  work  is  probably 
xhe  best  architectural  textbook  for  beginners  ever  published.  The 
numerous  illustrative  engravings  make  the  subject  very  simple,  and 
prevent  all  misunderstanding.  It  tells  all  about  the  different  styles, 
their  peculiar  features,  their  origin,  and  the  principles  that  underlie 
their  construction. 

BUCK'S  COTTAGE  AND  OTHER  DESIGNS Just  the  book 

you  want,  if  you  are  going  to  build  a  cheap  and  comfortable  home.  It 
shows  a  great  variety  of  cheap  and  medium-priced  cottages,  besides 
giving  a  number  of  useful  hints  and  suggestions  on  the  various  ques- 
tions liable  to  arise  in  building,  such  as  selections  of  site,  general 
Arrangement  of  the  plans,  sanatory  questions,  &c.  Cottages  costing 
from  $500  to  $5,000  are  shown  in  considerable  variety,  and  nearly  every 
taste  can  be  satisfied.  Forty  designs  for  fifty  cents.  ...  50  cents. 

The  information  on  site,  general  arrangement  of  plan,  sanatory 
.matters,  &c.,  is  worth  a  great  more  than  the  cost  of  the  book. 


CATALOGUE   OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

WATER-CLOSETS.—  A  Historical,  Mechanical,  and  Sanaton 
Treatise.— By  GLENN  BROWN,  Architect;  Associate  American  Insti 
tnte  of  Architects.— Neatly  bound  in  cloth,  with  gilt  title.  .  .  $1.(M 

This  book  contains  over  250  engravings,  drawn  expressly  for  the  work 
the  author.  The  drawings  are  so  clear  that  the  distinctive  features 
every  device  are  easily  seen  at  a  glance,  and  the  descriptions  are 


by  the  author.  The  drawings  are  so  clear  that  the  distinctive  features 
of  every  device  are  easily  seen  at  a  glance,  and  the  descriptions  are 
particularly  full  and  thorough.  The  paramount  importance  of  this 


department  of  the  construction  of  our  houses  renders  all  comment  upon 
the  value  of  such  a  work  unnecessary. 

PLASTER:  HOW  TO  MAKE  AND  HOW  TO  USE Tllus- 

trated  with  numerous  engravings  in  the  text,  and  three  plates  giving 
some  forty  figures  of  ceilings,  centerpieces,  cornices,  panels,  and  soffits. 
Being  a  complete  guide  for  the  plasterer  in  the  preparation  and  applica- 
tion of  all  kinds  of  plaster,  stucco,  Portland  cement,  hydraulic  cement, 
lime  of  Tiel,  Rosendale  and  other  cements.  To  which  is  added  an  illus- 
trated glossary  of  technical  terms  used  by  plasterers,  with  hints  and 
suggestions  regarding  the  working,  mixing,  and  preparation  of  scagliola 
and  colored  mort*rs  of  various  kinds.— Cloth,  gilt $1.00 

An  invaluable  book  for  plasterers,  bricklayers,  masons,  builders, 
architects,  and  engineers. 

HANDSAWS:  THEIR  USE,  CARE,  AND  ABUSE.— How 
to  Select  and  How  to  File  Them.— By  FEED.  T.  HODGSON,  author  of 
"The  Steel  Square  and  Its  Uses,"  "The  Builders'  Guide,  and  Esti- 
mators'Price-Book,"  "Practical  Carpentry,"  &c.— Illustrated  by  over 
seventy-five  engravings.— Cloth,  gilt $1.00 

Being  a  complete  guide  for  selecting,  using,  and  filing  all  kinds  of 
handsaws,  hacksaws,  compass  and  keyhole  saws;  web,  hack,  and  butch- 
ers' saws;  —  showing  the  shapes,  forms,  angles,  pitches,  and  sizes  of 
saw-teeth  suitable  for  all  kinds  of  saws,  and  for  all  kinds  of  wood,  bone, 
ivory,  and  metal.  Together  with  hints  and  suggestions  on  the  choice 
of  files,  saw-sets,  filing  clamps,  and  other  matters  pertaining  to  the  care 
and  management  of  all  classes  of  hand  and  other  small  saws. 

This  work  is  intended  more  particularly  for  operative  carpenters, 
joiners,  cabinet-makers,  carriage-builders,  and  woodworkers  generally, 
amateurs  or  professionals. 

MECHANICAL,  DRAUGHTING The  Student's  Illustrated 

Guide  to  Practical  Draughting: — A  series  of  Practical  Instructions 
for  Machinists,  Mechanics,  Apprentices,  and  Students  at  Engineering 
Establishments  and  Technical  Institutes.  —  By  T.  P.  PEMBERTON, 
Draughtsman  and  Mechanical  Engineer. —  Illustrated  with  numerous 
engravings. —  Cloth,  gilt -  .  $1.00 

This  is  a  simple  but  thorough  book,  by  a  draughtsman  of  twenty-five 
years'  experience.  It  is  intended  for  beginners  and  self-taught  students, 
as  well  as  for  those  who  pursue  the  study  under  the  direction  of  a 
teacher. 


CATALOGUE   OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

HINTS  AND  PRACTICAL  INFORMATION  FOR  CAB- 
INET-MAKERS, Upholsterers,  and  Furniture-men  Generally.  To- 
gether with  a  description  of  all  kinds  of  finishing,  with  full  directions 
therefor;  varnishes,  polishes,  stains  for  wood,  dyes  for  wood,  gilding 
and  silvering,  recipes  for  the  factory,  lacquers,  metals,  marbles,  &c.; 
pictures,  engravings,  &c.— Cloth,  gilt $1.00 

This  work  contains  an  immense  amount  of  the  most  useful  informa- 
tion for  those  who  are  engaged  in  manufacture,  superintendence,  or 
construction  of  furniture  or  woodwork  of  any  kind.  It  is  one  of  the 
cheapest  and  best  books  ever  published,  and  contains  over  one  thousand 
hints,  suggestions,  and  methods ;  and  descriptions  of  tools,  appliances, 
and  materials.  All  the  recipes,  rules,  and  directions  have  been  care- 
fully revised  and  corrected  by  practical  men  of  great  experience,  so  that 
they  will  be  found  thoroughly  trustworthy.  It  contains  many  of  the 
recent  recipes  sold  for  from  $5  to  $500. 

THE  SLIDE-RULE,  AND  HOW  TO  USE  IT.- This  is  a 
compilation  of  explanations,  rules,  and  instructions  suitable  for  me- 
chanics and  others  interested  in  the  industrial  arts.  Rules  are  given 
for  the  measurement  of  all  kinds  of  boards  and  planks,  timiber  in  the 
round  or  square,  glaziers'  work  and  painting,  brickwork,  paviors'  work, 
tiling  and  slating,  the  measurement  of  vessels  of  various  shapes,  the 
wedge,  inclined  planes,  wheels  and  axles,  levers,  the  weighing  and 
measurement  of  metals  and  all  solid  bodies,  cylinders,  cones,  globes, 
octagon  rule  and  formulae,  the  measurement  of  circles,  and  a  compar- 
ison of  French  and  English  measures,  with  much  other  information 
useful  to  builders,  carpenters,  bricklayers,  glaziers,  paviors,  machinists, 
and  other  mechanics. —  Paper 25  cents. 

Possessed  of  this  little  book  and  a  good  slide-rule,  mechanics  might 
carry  in  their  pockets  some  hundreds  of  times  the  power  of  calculation 
that  they  now  have  in  their  heads,  and  the  use  of  the  instrument  is 
very  easily  acquired. 

THE  ENGINEER'S  SLIDE-RULE  AND  ITS  APPLICA- 
TIONS.—  A  Complete  Investigation  of  the  Principles  upon  which  the 
Slide-Rule  is  Constructed ;  together  with  the  Method  of  its  Application 
to  all  the  Purposes  of  the  Practical  Mechanic.—  By  WILLIAM  TONKES. 
Paper 25  cents. 

THE    LIGHTNING    CALCULATOR.— Practical    Hints    on 

Lightning  Calculating To  which  are  added  Rules,  Tables,  Data, 

Formulae,  and  Memoranda  for  making  rapidly  those  every -day  calcu- 
lations that  are  required  in  business,  mechanics,  and  agriculture. 
Paper 20  cents. 


CATALOGUE    OF  IXDrSTKIAL  BOOKS. 


HOW  TO  BECOME  A  GOOD  MECHANIC.— Intended  as  a. 
Practical  Guide  to  Self-taught  Men :  telling  what  to  study,  what  books 
to  use,  how  to  begin,  what  difficulties  will  be  met,  how  to  overcome 
them.  In  a  word,  how  to  carry  on  such  a  course  of  self-instruction  as 
will  enable  the  young  mechanic  to  rise  from  the  bench  to  something 
higher.—  Paper 15  cents. 

This  is  not  a  book  of  "goody-goody"  advice,  neither  is  it  an  adver- 
tisement of  any  special  system,  nor  does  it  advocate  any  hobby.  It  gives 
plain  practical  advice  in  regard  to  acquiring  that  knowledge  which  alone 
can  enable  a  young  man  encaged  in  any  profession  or  occupation  con- 
nected with  the  industrial  arts  to  attain  a  position  higher  than  that  of 
a  mere  workman. 

LECTURES  IN  A  WORKSHOP.  — By  T.  P.  PEMBERTON, 
formerly  Associate  Editor  of  "The  Technologist":  author  of  "The- 
Student's  Illustrated  Guide  to  Practical  Draughting."  \VithanAppendix 
containing  the  famous  papers  by  Whitworth  "On  Plane  Metallic  Sur- 
faces of  True  Planes";  "On  the  Uniform  System  of  Screw  Threads"; 
"Address  to  the  Institution  of  Mechanical  Engineers,  Glasgow";  "On 
Standard  Decimal  Measures  of  Length." — Cloth,  gilt $1.00 

We  have  here  a  sprightly,  fascinating  book,  full  of  valuable  hints, 
interesting  anecdotes,  and  sharp  sayings.  It  is  not  a  compilation  of 
dull  sermons  or  dry  mathematics,  but  a  live,  readable  book.  The  papers 
by  Whitworth,  now  first  made  readily  accessible  to  the  American  reader, 
form  the  basis  of  our  modern  systems  of  accurate  work. 

DRAWING  INSTRUMENTS.—  Being  a  Treatise  on  Draughting 
Instruments,  with  Rules  for  their  Use  and  Care;  Explanations  of  Scales, 
Sectors,  and  Protractors.  Together  with  Memoranda  for  Draughtsmen, 
Hints  on  Purchasing  Paper,  Ink,  Instruments.  Pencils.  &c.  Also,  a 
price-list  of  all  materials  required  by  draughtsmen.  —  By  FRED.  T. 
HODGSON. —  Illustrated  witk  twenty-four  explanatory  illustrations. — 
Paper 25  cents. 

PLAIN  DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  CONSTRUCTION  AND 
ERECTION  OF  LIGHTNING-RODS — By  JOHN  PHIN  C.E.— 
Fully  illustrated.  12mo.  cloth 75  cents. 

This  is  a  well-known  and  standard  work.  It  is  the  only  book  on  the 
subject  published  in  this  country  that  has  not  betn  written  in  the 
interest  of  some  patent,  or  some  manufacturing  concern. 

CEMENTS  AND  GLUE.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Prepara- 
tion and  Use  of  all  kinds  of  Cements,  Glue,  and  Paste.— By  JOHN  PHIN, 
author  of  "How  to  Use  the  Microscope." — Paper 25  cents. 

Every  mechanic  and  householder  will  find  this  volume  of  almost 
every-day  use.  It  contains  nearly  two  hundred  recipes  for  the  prep- 
aration of  cements  for  almost  every  conceivable  purpose. 


CATALOGUE    OF  IXDUSTKIAL  BOOKS. 


ELECTRICIANS'  POCKET  COMPANION.-  Electrical  Rules, 
Tables,  Tests,  and  Formulae.— By  ANDREW  JAMIESON,  C.E.,  F.R.S.E. 
12mo,  cloth 75  cents. 

This  is  the  most  compact  and  thorough  work  in  the  market  for  the 
practical  electrician.  It  contains  minute  directions  for  all  calculations, 
tests,  &c.,  with  clear  engravings  of  the  apparatus  employed.  The  fol- 
lowing list  of  contents  will  give  an  idea  of  its  scope: — 

Formula  of  the  Absolute  Units,— Practical,  Electrical,  Mechanical. 

Heat  and  Light  Units. 

Electro-chemical  Equivalents,  Electrolysis,  Heat  and  Energy  of  Com- 
bustion. 

Practical  Methods  of  Electrical  Measurements. 

Electric  Conductors:  Copper.  &c. —  Insulators:  Guttapercha,  &c. 

Submarine  Cables.— Aerial  Land-lines. 

Electric  Lighting,  and  Transmission  of  Power. 

CENTURY  OF  INVENTIONS — An  exact  reprint  of  the  famous 
"Century  of  Inventions"  of  the  Marquis  of  Worcester  (first  published 
in  1663).  With  Introduction,  Notes,  and  a  Life  of  the  Author.  With 
portrait  after  a  painting  by  Van  Dyke. —  Edited  by  JOHN  PHIN. —  12mo, 
extra  cloth $1.00 

This  is  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  books  ever  published.  The 
famous  "Century  of  Inventions"  is  of  more  than  mere  historical  in- 
terest. It  contains  numerous  suggestions  and  hints  of  what  might  be 
accomplished,  and  will  be  found  of  great  interest  and  value  to  every 
one  interested  in  mechanics.  Many  persons  claim  that  the  Marquis  of 
Worcester  anticipated  many  of  our  most  important  modern  inventions 
and  discoveries.  Great  care  has  been  taken  to  reproduce  exactly  (so 
far  as  modern  type,  &c.,  could  do  it)  the  edition  published  by  the  Mar- 
quis himself,  ft  has  been  entirely  out  of  print  for  many  years. 

THE  NEW  POCKET  CYCLOPAEDIA.— A  Compendium  of 
General  Knowledge,  Useful  and  Interesting  Facts,  Valuable  Statistics, 
and  Practical  Information.  16mo,  cloth 50  cents. 

This  is  a  handy  volume  of  164  pages,  printed  in  small  but  clear  type 
on  very  fine  thin  paper,  so  that  the  book  may  be  readily  carried  in  the 
pocket  or  trunk.  It  contains  all  those  facts  and  figures  which  are  most 
commonly  referred  to  in  everyday  life,  great  care  being  taken  to  secure 
accuracy  and  clearness.  It  is  not  a  collection  of  "curious  information" 
made  up  from  newspaper  clippings,  but  a  thoroughly  arranged  manual 
of  the  most  useful  general  knowledge. 

WOOD-ENGRAVING A  Manual  of  Instruction  in  the  Art  of 

Wood-Engraving.  With  a  Description  of  the  necessary  Tools  and  Ap- 
paratus, and  Concise  Directions  for  their  use ;  Explanations  of  the  terms 
used,  and  the  methods  employed  for  producing  the  various  classes  of 
wood-engravings.— By  S.  E.  FULLER.—  Fully  illustrated  with  engrav- 
ings by  the  author,  separate  sheets  of  engravings  for  transfer  and  prac- 
tice being  added.—  New  edil ion.  neatly  bound 50.  cents. 


CATALOGUE    OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

THE  WORKSHOP  COMPANION A  Collection  of  Useful 

and  Reliable  Recipes,  Rules,  Processes,  Methods,  Wrinkles  and  Practical 

Hints  for  the  Household  and  the  Shop.—  Paper, 35  eents. 

Cloth,  gilt  title, 60  cents. 

This  is  a  book  of  164  closely  printed  pages,  forming  a  dictionary  of 
practical  information  for  mechanics,  amateurs,  housekeepers,  fanners, 
—  everybody.  It  contains  a  series  of  original  treatises  on  various  sub- 
jects, such  as  alloys,  cements,  inks,  steel,  signal-lights,  polishing  mate- 
rials, and  the  art  of  polishing  wood,  metals,  &c.;  varnishing,  gilding, 
silvering,  bronzing,  lacquering,  and  the  working  of  brass,  ivory,  alabas- 
ter, iron,  steel,  glass,  &c. 

THE  WORKSHOP  COMPANION — Part  II.— This  is  an  ex 
tension  of  the  First  Part,  and  contains  subjects  which  have  not  been 
discussed  in  the  earlier  volume.— Paper,  35  cents;  cloth,  60  cents. 

These  two  volumes  are  not  a  mere  collection  of  newspaper  clippings, 
like  most  of  the  books  of  "Recipes,"  but  a  series  of  tnorough  articles 
on  practical  matters  in  regard  to  which  information  is  constantly  desired 
in  the  shop,  the  house,  and  on  the  fai-m.  The  two  parts  are  also  issued 
in  one  volume,  printed  on  extra  paper,  and  handsomely  bound  in  cloth, 
under  the  title  of  "The  Practical  Assistant."—  Price  $1.00. 

AMATEUR'S  HANDBOOK  OF  PRACTICAL  INFORMA- 
TION for  the  Workshop  and  Laboratory — Second  edition, 
greatly  enlarged,  neatly  bound 15  cents. 

This  is  a  handy  little  book,  containing  just  the  information  needed 
by  amateurs  in  the  workshop  and  laboratory.  Directions  for  making 
alloys,  fusible  metals,  cements,  glues,  &c.;  and  for  soldering,  brazing, 
lacquering,  bronzing,  staining  and  polishing  wood,  tempering  tools, 
cutting  and  working  glass,  vaniishing,  silvering,  gilding,  preparing 
skins,  &c.  The  new  edition  contains  extended  directions  for  preparing 
polishing  powders,  freezing  mixtures,  colored  lights  for  tableaux,  solu- 
tions for  rendering  ladies  dresses  incombustible,  &e.  There  has  also 
been  added  a  very  large  number  of  new  and  valuable  recipes. 

"The  Workshop  Companion,"  just  described,  contains  all  the  matter 
that  is  to  be  found  in  "The  Amateur's  Handbook." 

COLLODIO-ETCHING.—  A   Guide    to    Collodio-Etchh>S.- 

By  Rev.   BENJAMIN    HARTLEY. —  Illustrated    by  the   author. —  1'Jmo, 

cloth $1.00 

This  volume  gives  complete  and  minute  instructions  for  one  of  the 
most  delightful  of  amateur  arts.  It  is  fully  illustrated  by  woodcuts  of 
all  the  apparatus  used  (which  is  very  simple  and  easily  made),  and  also 
by  actual  photo  prints  of  the  etchings  themselves. 

HINTS  FOR  PAINTERS,  DECORATORS,  AND  PAPER- 
HANGERS.— Being  a  Selection  of  Useful  Rules,  Data,  Memoranda, 
Methods,  and  Suggestions  for  House,  Ship,  and  Furniture  Painting, 
Paper-hanging,  Gilding,  Color-mixing,  and  other  matters  useful  and 
instructive  to  painters  and  decorators.  Prepared  with  special  reference 
to  the  wants  of  amateurs.—  By  An  Old  Hand.— Paper.  .  .  25  cents. 


CATALOGUE   OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

SUCCESS  WITH  RECIPES — A  Practical  Guide  to  Success 
in  the  Use  of  Recipes,  Formulae,  &c — With  Hints  on  Chemical 
and  Mechanical  Manipulation. —  Intended  as  a  Supplement  to  all  Books 
of  Recipes. —  By  JOHN  PHIN. —  12mo,  paper 25  cents. 

While  it  is  an  undoubted  fact  that  many  of  the  recipes  published  in 
the  ordinary  collections  are  erroneous,  either  from  original  blunders 
on  the  part  of  the  authors  or  from  mistakes  in  copying,  failure  in  the 
use  of  others  frequently  arises  from  defective  information  and  vicious 
methods  on  the  part  of  those  who  attempt  to  put  them  in  practice. 
The  object  of  the  present  book  is  to  give  such  nints  and  cautions  HS 
will  enable  the  worker  to  secure  success  where  success  is  possible :  and 
where  the  products  are  intended  for  sale  it  gives  special  and  valuable 
advice  in  regard  to  the  best  methods  of  putting  them  on  the  market. 

TRADE  "SECRETS"  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES A  Col- 
lection of  Recipes,  Processes,  and  Formulae  that  have  been  offered  for 
sale  at  prices  varying  from  25  cents  to  $500.  With  Notes,  Corrections, 
Additions,  and  Special  Hints  for  Improvements.— Edited  by  JOHN  PHIN, 
assisted  by  an  experienced  and  skillful  pharmacist. —  Cloth,  gilt  title. 
Price, 60  cents. 

This  work  was  prepared  by  the  author  for  the  purpose  of  collecting 
and  presenting  in  a  compact  form  all  those  recipes  and  so-called  "trade 
Secrets"  which  have  been  so  extensively  advertised  and  offered  for  sale. 
It  is  not  by  any  means  a  claptrap  book,  though  it  exposes  many  clap- 
traps. It  contains  a  large  amount  of  valuable  information  that  can  not 
be  readily  found  elsewhere;  and  it  gives  not  only  the  formulae.  &c.,  for 
manufacturing  an  immense  variety  of  articles,  but  important  and  trust- 
worthy hints  as  to  the  best  way  of  making  money  out  of  them.  Even 
as  a  book  of  recipes  it  is  worth  more  than  its  price  to  any  one  who  is 
interested  in  the  subject  on  which  it  treats. 

WHAT  TO  DO  AND  HOW  TO  DO  IT  IN  CASE  OF  ACCI- 
DENT.—A  book  for  everybody.— Cloth,  gilt  title 50  cents. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  useful  books  ever  published.  It  tells  exactly 
what  to  do  in  case  of  accidents,  such  as  severe  cuts,  sprains,  dislocations, 
broken  bones,  burns  with  fire,  scalds,  burns  with  corrosive  chemicals, 
sunstroke,  suffocation  by  foul  air,  hanging,  drowning,  frost-bite, 
fainting,  stings,  bites,  starvation,  lightning,  poisons,  accidents  from 
machinery  and  from  the  falling  of  scaffolding,  gunshot  wounds,  &c. 
It  ought  to  be  in  every  house,  for  young  and  old  are  liable  to  accident, 
and  the  directions  given  in  this  book  might  be  the  means  of  saving 
many  a  valuable  life. 

COMMON  SENSE  IN  THE  POULTRY- YARD.— A  Story  of 
Failures  and  Successes.  Including  a  full  account  of  1,000  hens  and 
what  they  did.  With  a  complete  description  of  the  houses,  coops, 
fences,  runs,  methods  of  feeding,  breeding,  marketing,  &c.;  and  many 
new  wrinkles  and  economical  dodges. —  By  J.  P.  HAIG. — With  numerous 
illustrations.— 12mo,  cloth,  gilt $1.00 

A  lively  and  entertaining  work,  which  embodies  the  actual  experience 
of  many  years  in  the  keeping  of  poultry  in  large  and  small  numbers. 
It  is  the  most  thoroughly  practical  work  on  poultry  in  market. 


CATALOfiTE    OF  IXDUXTXIAL   LOOKS 


A  DICTIONARY  OF  PRACTICAL  BEE-KEEPING.-  Notes 
and  Practical  Hints. —  By  JOHN  PHIN,  author  of  ';How  to  Use  the 
Microscope,"  &e. —  Numerous  illustrations. —  Cloth,  gilt.  .  .  50  cents 

This  work  discusses  thoroughly  nearly  five  hundred  subjects.  Gives 
in  condensed  form  an  immense  amount  of  valuable  information  under 
the  different  headings.  Under  the  heads  Bee,  Comb,  Glucose,  Honey, 
Race,  Species,  Sugar,  Wax,  and  others,  it  brings  together  a  large  number 
of  important  facts  and  figures  which  are  now  scattered  through  our  bee 
literature  and  through  costly  scientific  works,  and  are  not  easily  found 
when  wanted.  Here  they  can  be  referred  to  at  once  under  the  proper 
head. 

SHOOTING  ON  THE  WING.- Plain  Directions  for  Ac- 
quiring the  Art  of  Shooting  on  the  Wing:.  With  Useful  Hints 
concerning  all  that  relates  to  Guns  and  Shooting,  and  particularly  in 
regard  to  the  art  of  Loading  so  as  to  Kill.  To  which  has  been  added 
several  Valuable  and  hitherto  Secret  Recipes  of  Great  Practical  Import- 
ance to  the  Sportsman. —  By  An  Old  Gamekeeper. —  Illustrated. —  12mo, 
cloth 75  cents. 

This  book  contains  a  novel  and  most  valuable  feature  which  is  found 
in  no  other  work  on  this  subject.  This  is  a  series  of  graduated  lessons 
by  which  the  self-taught  young  sportsman  will  be  enabled  to  advance 
step  by  step  from  such  marks  as  a  sheet  of  pfiper  nailed  on  a  fence  to 
the  most  difficult  trap-shooting  and  the  sharpest  snap-shots. 

THE  PISTOL  AS  A  WEAPON  OF  DEFENCE  in  the  House 
and  on  the  Road. —  12mo,  cloth 50  cents. 

This  work  aims  to  instruct  peaceable  and  law-abiding  citizens  in  the 
best  means  of  protecting  themselves  from  the  attacks  of  the  brutal  and 
the  lawless,  and  is  the  only  practical  book  published  on  this  subject. 
Its  contents  are  as  follows: — 

The  Pistol  as  a  Weapon  of  Defence.— The  Carrying  of  Firearms.— 
Different  Kinds  of  Pistols  in  Market,— How  to  Choose  a  Pistol.— Am- 
munition, different  kinds;  Powder,  Caps,  Bullets.  Copper  Cartridges, 
&c. —  Best  Form  of  Bullet. —  How  to  Load. —  Best  Charge  for  Pistols. — 
How  to  regulate  the  Charge.— Care  of  the  Pistol:  How  to  Clean  it.— 
How  to  Handle  and  Carry  the  Pistol.—  How  to  Learn  to  Shoot.—  Prac- 
tical Use  of  the  Pistol. —  How  to  Protect  yourself  and  how  to  Disable 
your  Antagonist. 

CHEMICAL,  HISTORY  OF  THE  SIX  DAYS  OF  CREA- 
TION—  By  JOHN  PHIN,  author  of  "How  to  Use  the  Microscope."— 
12mo,  cloth 75  cents. 

In  this  volume  an  attempt  is  made  to  trace  the  evolution  of  our 
globe  from  the  primeval  state  of  nebulous  mist,  "without  form  and 
void."  and  existing  in  "darkness,"  or  with  an  entire  absence  of  the 
manifestation  of  the  physical  forces,  to  the  condition  in  which  it  was 
fitted  to  become  the  habitation  of  man.  While  the  statements  and  con- 
clusions are  rigidly  scientific,  it  gives  some  exceedingly  novel  views  of  a 
rather  hackneyed  subject. 


CATALOGUE    OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 


THE   SUN:   A  Familiar  Description  of  his  Phenomena.— 

By  Rev.  THOMAS  WILLIAM  WEBB,  M.A.,  P.R.A.S.,  author  of  "Celestial 
Objects  for  Common  Telescopes." — With  numerous  illustrations. — 

12mo,  cloth 40  cents. 

This  work  gives  in  a  delightfully  popular  style  an  account  of  the 
most  recent  discoveries  in  regard  to  the  sun.  It  is  freely  illustrated. 

HOW  TO  USE  THE  MICROSCOPE.  -A  Book  of  Practical 
Hints  on  the  Selection  and  Use  of  the  Microscope.  Intended  for  be- 
ginners.—By  JOHN  PHIN,  editor  of  "The  American  Journal  of  Micros- 
copy."—Sixth  edition.  Greatly  enlarged,  with  over  eighty  engravings 
in  the  text,  and  eight  full-page  engravings,  printed  on  heavy  tint  paper. 
12mo,  cloth $1.25 

This  work  has  been  received  with  such  general  favor  that  it  has 
passed  through  five  large  editions  in  a  few  years.  It  gives  a  full  account 
of  the  different  kinds  of  microscopes ;  of  the  various  accessories,  and  of 
the  best  methods  of  using  them ;  of  the  best  methods  of  collecting,  pre- 
paring, and  preserving  objects,  and  preparing  slides  and  cabinets.  Many 
of  the  illustrations,  devices,  and  methods  used,  are  original  with  the 
author,  although  they  have  been  freely  copied  and  appropiiated  without 
credit  by  several  other  writers. 

A  BOOK  FOR  BEGINNERS  WITH  THE  MICROSCOPE. 

Being  an  abridgement  of  "How  to  Use  the  Microscope." — By  JOHN 
PHIN.— Fully  illustrated,  and  neatly  and  strongly  bound  in  boards.— 
Price, SO  cents. 

This  book  was  prepared  for  the  use  of  those  who,  having  no  knowl- 
edge of  the  use  of  the  microscope,  or.  indeed,  of  any  scientific"  apparatus, 
desire  simple  and  practical  instruction  in  the  best  methods  of  managing 
the  instrument  and  preparing  objects. 

THE  MICROSCOPE By  ANDREW  Ross.— Fully  illustrated.— 

12mo,  clot*,  gilt  title 75  cents. 

This  is  the  celebrated  article  contributed  by  Andrew  Ross  to  "The 
Penny  Cyclopaedia,"  and  quoted  so  frequently  by  writers  on  the  micro- 
scope.  Carpenter  and  Hogg,  in  the  last  edition  of  their  works  on  the 
microscope,  and  Brooke  in  his  treatise  on  Natural  Philosophy,  nil  refer 
to  this  article  as  the  best  source  for  full  and  clear  information  In  regard 
to  the  principles  upon  which  the  modern  achromatic  microscope  is  con- 
structed. It  should  be  in  the  library  of  every  person  to  whom  the 
microscope  is  more  than  a  toy.  It  is  written  in  simple  language,  free 
from  abstruse  technicalities. 

MICROSOPE  OBJECTIVES.— The  Angular  Aperture  of 
Microscope  Objectives.— By  Dr.  GEORGE  E.  BLACKHAM.— Eighteen 
full-page  illustrations,  printed  on  extra  fine  paper. —  8vo,  cloth.  .  $1.T"> 

This  is  the  elaborate  paper  on  Aneular  Aperture  read  by  Dr.  Bla'k- 
ham  before  the  Microscopical  Congress,  held  at  Indianapolis. 


CATALOGUE   OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

SECTION  CUTTING A  Practical  Guide  to  the  Prepara- 
tion and  Mounting  of  Sections  for  the  Microscope,  special 
prominence  being  given  to  the  subject  of  Animal  Sections.— By  SYL- 
VESTER MARSH,  M.D.— Reprinted  from  the  London  edition.— With 
illustrations. —  12mo,  cloth,  gilt  title 75  cents. 

This  is  undoubtedly  the  most  thorough  treatise  extant  upon  section 
cutting  in  all  its  details.  The  American  edition  lias  been  greatly  en- 
larged by  valuable  explanatory  notes:  and  also  by  extended  directions, 
illustrated  with  engravings,  for  selecting  and  sharpening  knives  and 
razors. 

MARVELS  OF  POND  LIFE — A  Year's  Microscopic  Recrea- 
tions among  the  Polyps,  Infusoria,  Rotifers,  Water- Bears,  and  Polyzoa. 
By  HENRY  J.  SLACK,  F.G.S.,  F.R.M.S,  &c.— Seven  full-page  plates,  and 
numerous  wood  engravings  in  the  text. —  Second  edition. —  12mo,  cloth, 
gilt $1.00 

DIATOMS Practical  Directions  for  Collecting.  Preserving,  Trans- 
porting, Preparing,  and  Mounting  Diatoms. —  By  Professor  A.  MEAD 
EDWARDS,  M.D.,  Professor  CHRISTOPHER  JOHNSTON,  M.D.,  Professor 
HAMILTON  L.  SMITH,  LL.D. —  12mo,  cloth 75  cents. 

This  volume  contains  the  most  complete  series  of  directions  for  col- 
lecting, preparing,  and  mounting  diatoms  ever  published.  The  direc- 
tions given  are  the  latest  and  best. 

HACTERIA —  A  Series  of  Papers  on  the  Exhibits  at  the  Biological 
Laboratory  of  the  Health  Exhibition,  under  the  charge  of  WATSON 
CHEYNE. —  Reprinted  from  the  London  "Lancet." — Illustrated  with 
over  thirty  engravings,  showing  the  forms  and  modes  of  growth  of  the 
various  species,  and  the  apparatus  used  in  the  different  "cultures." 
12mo,  paper 25  cents. 

HANDBOOK  OF  URINARY  ANALYSIS,  Chemical  and 
Microscopical. —  For  the  use  of  Physicians,  Medical  Students,  and 
Clinical  Assistants.— By  FRANK  M.  DEEMS,  M.D.,  Laboratory  Instruct- 
or in  the  Medical  Department  of  the  University  of  New  York ;  Member 
of  the  New  York  County  Medical  Society ;  Member  of  the  New  York 
Microscopical  Society,  &c. —  Second  edition.  Greatly  enlarged,  and 
fully  illustrated.— 12mo,  cloth $1.00 

This  manual  presents  a  plan  for  the  systematic  examination  of  liquid 
urine,  urinary  deposits,  and  calculi.  It  is  compiled  with  the  intention 
of  supplying  a  concise  guide,  which,  from  its  small  compass  and  tab- 
ulated arrangement,  renders  it  admirably  adapted  for  use,  both  as  a 
bedside  reference-book  and  a  work-table  companion.  The  author  is 
well  known  as  one  who  has  had  for  several  years  a  very  extended  expe- 
rience as  a  teacher  of  this  important  branch  of  physical  diasnosis.  and 
he  has  compiled  a  manual  which  will  serve  to  lessen  the  difficulties  in 
the  way  of  the  beginner,  and  save  valuable  time  to  the  practitioner 


CATALOGUE    OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

THE  MICROSCOPIST'S  ANNUAL  FOR  1879.— Contains  a 
list  of  all  the  microscopical  societies  in  the  country,  with  names  of 
officers,  days  of  meeting,  &c.;  alphabetical  and  classified  lists  of  all  the 
manufacturers  of  microscopes  and  objectives,  dissecting  apparatus, 
microscopic  objects,  materials  for  microscopists,  in  Europe  and  Amer- 
ica, &e.;  postal  rates,  rules  and  regulations,  prepared  expressly  for 
microscopists.  Weights  and  measures,  with  tables  and  rules  for  the 
conversion  of  different  measures  into  each  other;  customs  duties  and 
regulations  in  regard  to  instruments  and  books ;  value  of  the  moneys 
of  all  countries  in  United  States  dollars ;  value  of  the  lines  on  Nobert's 
test-plates;  table  of  Holler's  probe-platte,  with  the  number  of  lines  to 
inch  on  the  several  diatoms,  &c.;  focal  value  of  the  objectives  of  those 
makers  who  number  their  objectives  (Hartnack,  Nachet,  &c.);  focal 
value  of  the  eye-pieces  of  different  makers ;  magnifying  power  of  eye- 
pieces and  objectives.  &c.  The  whole  forming  an  indispensable  com- 
panion for  every  working  microscopist.— Limp  cloth,  gilt.  .  25  cents. 

TRICHINAE  SPIRALIS:  Ho-w  to  Detect  Them  and  How 
to  Aioid  Them — A  Popular  Account  of  the  Habits,  Modes  of  Prop- 
agation, and  Means  of  Dissemination  of  Pork-worms  or  Flesh-worms. — 
By  JOHN  PHIN,  author  of  "How  to  Use  the  Microscope. "—  Fully  illus- 
trated.—  Paper 25  cents. 

A  BOOK  ABOUT  BOOKS;  or,  Practical  Notes  on  the 
Selection,  Use,  and  Care  of  Books — Intended  as  a  popular  guide 
for  book-buyers,  students,  and  all  lovers  of  good  reading.— Cloth,  40  cts. 

This  is  a  readable,  gossipy  book,  full  of  literary  anecdotes,  and  con- 
taining also  a  great  deal  of  practical  information,  useful  to  every  one 
that  owns  or  expects  to  own  books.  The  directions  for  binding,  repair- 
ing, preserving,  and  handling  books  should  receive  the  careful  attention 
of  every  one  that  desires  to  keep  his  books  in  good  condition;  but  even 
if  regarded  as  mere  pleasant  reading  for  a  leisure  hour,  there  are  few 
more  readable  and  interesting  books  than  this  with  its  gossip  chat  and 
stones. 

It  is  illustrated  with  three  full-page  engravings,  one  being  a  repro- 
duction of  the  ttrst  wood  engraving  of  which  there  is  any  record ;  the 
second  is  an  exceedingly  curious  woodcut  representing  the  birth  of  Eve, 
and  the  third  is  an  engraving  of  one  of  the  curious  "hornbooks  "  of  the 
seventeenth  century. 

RHYMES  OF   SCIENCE:  WISE  AND  OTHERWISE.— By 

OLIVER  WENDELL  HOLMES.  BRET  HAETE,  INGOLDSBY,  Prof.  FORBES, 
Prof.  J.  W.  McQ.  RANKINE.  Hon.  R.  W.  RAYMOND,  and  others.— With 

illustrations.— Cloth,  gilt  title 50  cents. 

THE  YOUNG  SCIENTIST.-This  journal  was  devoted  to  amateur 
Science  and  Art,  and  was  deservedly  a  favorite  with  young  people.  We 
have  a  few  bound  volumes  for  sale.  Price  75  cents  each. 

THE    AMERICAN    JOURNAL   OF   MICROSCOPY.— A  few 

bound  volumes  for  sale.    Price  $1.00  each. 


CATALOGUE   OF  INDUSTRIAL  KOOKS. 

FIVE  HUNDRED  AND  SEVEN  MECHANICAL  MOVE- 
MENTS— Embracing  all  those  which  are  most  important  in  Dynamics. 
Hydraulics,  Hydrostatics,  Pneumatics,  Steam  Engines.  Mill  and  other 
Oearing,  Presses,  Horology  and  Miscellaneous  Machinery;  including 
many  movements  never  before  published,  several  of  which  have  only 
recently  come  into  use.—  By  HENRY  T.  BROWN,  editor  of  the  American 
Ai-tisaii.—  Eleventh  edition.—  12mo,  cloth $1.00 

This  work  is  a  perfect  cyclopedia  of  mechanical  inventions. which  are 
here  reduced  to  first  principles,  and  classified  so  as  to  be  readily  avail- 
able. Every  mechanic  that  hopes  to  be  more  than  a  mere  hewer  of 
wood  and  drawer  of  water  ought  to  have  a  copy. 

EASY  EXPERIMENTS  IN  CHEMISTRY  AND  NATURAL 
PHILOSOPHY.— For  Educational  Institutions  of  all  Grades,  and  for 
Private  Students.— By  G.  DALLAS  LIND.  author  of  "Methods  of  Teach- 
ing in  Country  Schools,"  and  v"  Normal  Outlines  of  the  Common  School 
Branches." — Paper 40  cents. 

This  book,  besides  being  a  valuable  guide  for  the  teacher  and  the 
student,  will  afford  scientific  amusement  "sufficient  to  brighten  the  even- 
ings of  a  whole  winter. 

WORKSHOP  RECEIPTS.— For  the  use  of  Manufacturers.  Me- 
chanics, and  Scientific  Amateurs. —  The  most  complete  and  reliable 
collection  published. 

First  Series. 

Bookbinding;  Candles;  Drawing;  Electro-Metallurgy;  Engraving; 
Gilding;  Japans;  Photography;  Pottery;  Varnishing.  &c. —  450  pages. 

with  illustrations $2.00 

Sejcond  Series. 

Industrial  Chemistry;  Cements  and  Lutes;  Confectionery;  Essences 
and  Extracts;  Dyeing.  Staining,  and  Coloring;  Gelatine,  Glue,  and 
Size;  Inks;  Paper  and  Paper-making;  Pigments,  Paint,  and  Painting, 

&c.— 485  pages $2.00 

Third  Series. 

Alloys,  Electrics.  Enamels,  and  Glazes;  Glass.  Gold.  Iron,  and  Steel; 
Lacquers  and  Lacquering;  Lead,  Lubricants.  Mercury,  Nickel,  Silver, 

Tin.  Vanadium,  Zinc,  &c.—  480  pages,  183  illustrations' $2.00 

Fourth  Series. 

Waterproofing;  Packing  and  Storing:  Embalming  and  Preserving; 
Leather  Polishes:  Cooling  Air  and  Water;  Pumps  and  Siphons; 
Desiccating:  Distilling;  Emulsifying;  Evaporating;  Filtering;  Perco- 
lating and  Macerating;  Electrotyping;  Stereotyping;  Bookbinding; 
Straw  Plaiting;  Musical  Instruments;  Clock  and  Watch  Mending; 
Photography,  "&c.— 495  pages $2.00 

»%  In  ordering  single  volumes  be  particular  to  mention  the  "series" 
•wanted. 

Any  pers«n  sending  an  order  (accompanied  with  the  cash)  for  any 
two  of  the  four  series  will  receive,  without  extra  charge,  a  copy  of 
'•Tht  Practical  Assistant,"  described  on  another  page. 


CATALOGUE    OF  INDUSTRIAL  DOORS. 


IN    PRESS. 

FACTS  AND  FIGURES  FOR  PRACTICAL,  MEN.-Contain- 
ing  Data,  Formulae,  Rules,  Tables,  and  Calculations  used  by  Architects, 
Blacksmiths,  Bricklayers,  Builders,  Cabinetmakers,  Carpenters,  Con- 
tractors, Engineers,  Fanners,  Firemen,  Founders,  Gunsmiths,  Joiners, 
Machinists,  Masons,  Metalworkers,  Millwrights,  Painters,  Plasterers, 
Roofers.  Roudmakers,  Surveyors,  Tinsmiths.  &c.  — By  JOHN  PHIN,  au- 
thor of  "Practical  Treatise  on  Lightning- Rods,"  "How  to  "Use  the 
Microscope,"  &c. 

It  is  intended  to  make  this  work  a  convenient  and  reliable  nianmal 
for  those  who  have  no  knowledge  of  the  higher  mathematics.  It  will 
be  published  in  four  parts,  price  25  cents  each.  Part  I  is  nearly  ready. 


READY. 

THE  PRACTICAL  UPHOLSTERER.— This  work  contains  a 
number  of  original  designs  in  drapery  and  upholstery,  with  full  explan- 
atory text  and  an  immense  number  of  working  illustrations. 

It  gives  a  description  of  tools,  appliances,  and  materials.  Tells  how 
to  upholster  chairs,  parlor  furniture,  bedroom  furniture,  &c.  It  con- 
tains rules  for  cutting  bed-hangings,  window-curtains,  door-hangings, 
and  blinds,  and  for  measwing  and  cutting  carpets.  Gives  arithmetical 
calculations  for  cutting  carpets,  curtsiins,  &<>..  niantelboard  drapery, 
festoons,  and,  in  short,  everything  pertaining  to  upholstery. 

There  is  nothing  published  in  this  country  that  is  so  thorough  and 
complete  in  the  instructions  given  for  upholstering  as  this  book. 

12mo,  handsomely  bound  in  cloth.    Price  $1. 


JUST   PUBLISHED. 

THH  PRACTICAL  POCKET  COMPANION.— A  Cyclopedia 
of  the  most  useful  Facts,  Figures,  and  General  Information  required 
by  Everybody  in  Everyday  Life.  To  which  is  added  a  Concise  Diction- 
ary of  the  most  important  new  terms  recently  introduced  into  Science 
and  the  Arts.— Edited  by  JOHN  PHIN,  author  of  "How  to  Use  th« 
Microscope,"  "The  Workshop  Companion."  " Chemical  History  of  the 
.Six  Days  of  Creation,"  &c.— Numerous  illustrations.—  Price  20  cents. 


CATALOGUE   OF  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS. 

In    Preparation. 
THE    UNIVERSAL 

CARPENTER     AND     JOINER. 

By  FRED.  T.  HODGSON, 

Author  of  "The  Steel  Square  and  Its  Uses,"  "Practical  Carpentry," 

•  "Stairbuilding  Made  Easy,"   "The  Builder's  Guide,   and 

Estimator's  Price-Book,"  &c. 

To  be  handsomely  illustrated,  and  published  in  four  parts, 

as  follows: 

PART  I  will  contain  CARPENTER'S  GEOMETRY,  presented  in  an  easy 

form,  with  examples  of  its  practical  applications  in  Carpentry 

and  Joinery,  showing  how  to  get  and  work 

difficult  "cuts"  and  pitches. 

PART  II  will  be  an  introduction  to  the  ART  AND  SCIENCE  or  CAB- 

PENTRT   proper,   with   working  drawings   of   Roofs, 

Bridges,  Bevel  and  Skew  Work. 


PART  III  will  contain  a  practical  treatise  on  AMERICAN  JOINERY, 

with  descriptions  and  examples  of  some  of  the  best  work 

in  existence.    This  Part  will  be  full  of  excellent 

material  for  the  Joiner  and  Finisher. 

PART  IV  will  contain  a  large  number  of  examples  in  mixed  JOINERY 

and  CARPENTRY,  Rules  for  Working,  Methods  of  Working, 

Tables,  Data  for  Estimating,  Formulae  for  laying 

out  work,  and  Recipes  useful  to  the 

Practical  Workman. 

It  will  be  the  aim  of  the  author  to  make  the  above  work  the  most 
complete  treatise  on  Carpentry  and  Joinery  published  to  date.  It  will 
be  issued  in  Four  Parts,  each  Part  consisting  of  not  less  than  100  large 
royal  octavo  pages,  printed  on  fine  paper,  and  strongly  bound  in  stiff 
paper  covers.  The  price  will  be  one  dollar  per  Part ;  and  when  com- 
plete the  whole  will  form  one  volume,  the  price  of  which,  handsomely 
bound  in  extra  cloth,  will  be  $5. 

The  First  Part  will  be  ready  about  the  first  of  August,  1891,  and  the 
remaining  Parts  at  intervals  of  about  three  months. 

To  those  sending  advance  orders  for  two  Parts,  accompanied  with 
the  cash,  we  will  send  a  coupon  which  will  be  accepted  by  us  as  payment 
in  full  for  binding  the  complete  work  in  ueat  cloth,  with  gilt  title. 


TT 

m 


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